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Tripletrouble last won the day on March 22 2019

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  1. Whilst not relevant at the moment, Nitron do have offers at end of year, December, on the remote preload with shock. As a previous post, the NTR1 is great for the road, but the NTR 2 is better if your going to track day it regularly. If your Mr serious on the track, NTR3. Unless your carrying a passenger randomly, you don't need the external preload. Adding the preload after you buy a shock is an expensive way of going about it. Nitron customer service in U.K. was excellent for advice. I'd always been an Ohlins fanboy, but think ? Nitron s build quality is better for the buck, but that's just my thought, not fact. . Let's be honest, a spring out of my chair is better than stock. The better rear shock on its own will not make the front worse as such, since they are inbalanced to begin with and the forks are meh, but the rear will be so much nicer, you'll notice the front even more. However that will still improve the ride no end. If money's no object, Matt is right, get it all sorted. If not, shock first, forks later. YAMAHA SUSPENSION R&D DEPARTMENT
  2. Hi Blake. Undo 4 screws holding on screen and remove. Remove more screws and take off the black plastic shield underneath screen. There is a plastic moulding held in place by some round plastic clips. Get a small posi /Phillips screwdriver and gently push the central rivet down. They won't fall through, but loosen the clip up. Remove the shroud and you'll see the two grey connectors. 99 and 100. Either will do. Socket for your sat nav wires EBay 353046470273
  3. Betony, I'm normally a 'suck it and see' person, but we're on lockdown at moment, no riding, so I'm just theorising at the moment. The leg came up cheapish on eBay, and wanted it just for the gold top tube. When it came with the comp adjuster, I thought I could make use of it.
  4. The lockdown puts a bit of reality into place. At the moment, I would be happy to ride my 50cc scooter, which has biro springs for suspension.
  5. I've just had a thought why this might not work. The right leg must have some compression damping, although not adjustable. The left doesn't have any damping at all, so the right must be valved to do the work of 2 legs ? If I fit the left gt leg, which has a damping rod, am I effectively adding more compression and possibly rebound ? I wonder if the right gt leg has different valving to compensate, maybe just rebound ? Mmm. My reason for doing this mod, is so I can put light oil in left compression leg, and keep heavy in right rebound side. At the moment, with one leg for all the damping, it's a huge compromise of heavy oil for rebound, good, which then stiffens compression, bad.
  6. BBB. Well, that makes total sense. Harsh pogo sticks, what a great and accurate description ! Strange Yamaha don't use that in their brochure.😄I guess the heavier oil I put in has a similar effect to stop spring bouncing back, and found I could use the rebound adjustment screw to better effect. It's still odd that most recommendations have lighter oil, which to me made it worse ? I just messed about myself with the oil and heavier was better (for me) However, it seems a trade off. fast riding = more stable vs slow riding feeling the bumps. Still, £12.00 on oil is better than £500.00 on cartridges, as I have another hobby called buying food. That's great info from Maxton, thanks for the reference.
  7. I put in slightly heavier for oil, it made a difference in fork dive, but had to click rebound out to stop the small bump chattering. The nitron rear shock improved the bike big time, and has sorted out a lot of problems that I thought was the forks, as you've said, it squats under acceleration, then bounces up giving the front forks a lot of work to do. I'll get heavier springs down the line, though I think it's the damping that's the real culprit. Or just wheelie everywhere...
  8. How much of the improved ride was because of the cartridge mod, vs the springs ?
  9. Thanks Betony. Blew my funds a while back on a nitron shock, as it's the crap rear shock that was causing the biggest problems, but springs are on the list when the lockdown is over, as can't test or ride at moment. The fronts not ideal, but after messing with different weights, I put slightly heavier oil in, 22cst, up from 15.8 ( most go lighter, or think they do) and wound out rebound more, so livable with for the time being. What weight are you, and what rate spring did you put in ? How is it on small frequent bumps which are what passes for U.K. Roads at the moment ?
  10. Thanks for confirming Betony, Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything like my normal bright ideas. Bbb..The left Tracer leg just has a spring and oil. On the left GT leg they have now added compression adjustment. The right side both have rebound. They measure identically, so my thought was to buy a s/h Gt. leg to get a little more adjustment without spending a crap load on andreani cartridges. (Way better option if....you have the funds) but had to make a sudden decision without fully researching. Not sure it will make a massive difference. Actually, since I can't ride at moment, it won't make ant difference !
  11. I've just received s/h left fork leg complete to replace scratched gold tube on my existing 17 model. It has a comp screw on cap, so thinking it might be off a gt model. Axle orientation is correct. Will this be a direct swap over, as it measures as my existing ?
  12. There is a lot of misinformation on fork oil. Simply. One brands 10w can have a similar effect to another brands 5w. So while you may think your putting in lighter oil, you may not be. So the 'I've put in 5w and now I can beat Marquez' may not be helpful at all if you use a different brand. It's not the brands quality we're talking here, it's the consistency, thin/thick at a given temperature. The CST number is what you need for reference. For example...Your recommended Yamaha 5w ( kayaba 01) is 15.6 which is very low, or thin. Castrol synthetic 5w is a whopping 28.00 ! Here's a link to a chart for you to ponder http://mahonkin.com/~milktree/motorcycle/fork-oil.html
  13. The noise is because your going faster ! Haha. I found oem's a bit stiff/hard and had a lack of feeI.Thought it was the bike until I put 4's on, and they made a big difference in feel on the sweepy stuff. They also lasted way longer, so win win. The 5's I'm on now are a tad better than 4's but not much in it despite the advertising hype. Try upping pressure, but think 37/34 is where you'll end up. We're a bit screwed in the UK now, only crucial journeys, so make the most of it if you can get out.
  14. 33 front, 36 rear. 36 42 is really too hard unless you've got a pillion. It will work, but it's a manafacturers standard and on the safe side so people load their bike up or carry a pillion. Some people are happier going by the book as that's how they go about life. I now run 33 36 on all my road bikes, it makes them more compliant and grippier. However, as with most things, it's up to you to try those pressures, they just work for me. Your bikes not going to spontaneously combust if you try those pressures. Just to throw you into a pit of snakes, odd tire wear is often put down to wrong tire pressure, but it's can be poor suspension set up.. https://youtu.be/X-uiiksWsOs