Tripletrouble

Wondered about operation at different weather temperatures. Thanks for confirmation. It’s mainly to help on bumpy slow tiny country roads, where I’m on and off the throttle.

Hi Stew. Is that booster still working out for you ?

Excellent. You’ve got the whole point. You can get geometry advice from your tech, but, it’s how it feels to you. Don’t be afraid to experiment. Your best tools for this are a pen and paper. Write down all your settings, then you can mess about a bit knowing you can go back to base. There are some good YouTube vids by Dave Moss on suspension, but you can end up with a headache from all the info 🧠🔨 Dropping forks as you have, should make the bike a bit more twitchy, (less rake) as will raising rear. Think the ohlins shock will help stabilise the bike more anyhoo. 🤞

Not sure about that. . Have you considered this. For me, the stock rear spring is too soft. This means it squats down on the back when it accelerates. THIS makes the front feel light and a bit crap. We are all different, budget stock suspension can’t cover everybody’s weight and riding style. I fitted a Nitron shock with stiffer spring for my weight. Now the front doesn’t feel light, and no geometry change. So measure your sag, see where you are. If preload is wound all the way down, you are under-sprung. Your tech has given you what he thinks is best for your stock, but your stock might be outside it’s capabilities. With the Tracer, you have little weight on the bars, also making the front feel light. Turn the risers around, this will put a tad more weight on bars, which I prefer. Or buy a kawa 1000sx.

It’s pretty odd it does that if you’ve wiped off the excess ? You sure it’s chain lube on the floor ? I tend to use a dry lube, it doesn’t attract the crap that waxes or oil tend to, but this is my choice and not to everyone’s else’s taste. Here’s an interesting unsientific take from fortnine... https://youtu.be/VnPYdcbcAe0

Cutting it in half is the way to go. It fits in the recycling bin a lot better.

The difference between stock and Michelin 4 for me was substantial, grip and feel. A new 4 felt better than my old 4. Felt same between my new 5 and old 4, so not a real difference. But, 5 is one more than 4, so Spinal Tap rule applies.

I think increasing preload is changing the bikes geometry for the better. Instead of preload, try adjusting the ride height, that’s if your shock has one ? It will be a screwed thread at the base of shock rod. That way you’ll keep the correct sag setting but still alter the bikes geometry. As previously mentioned, I run my 5’s at 33-36, but heh, everyone’s got a difference of opinion on that. Might be worth a try ? You’ll appreciate the cold weather grip on the 5’s now though !

Givi EA106B...The magnet flap sits quite far back on this, works fine on the Tracer tank.

Not sure if you have both, but heavier springs = dial more rebound, less compression as a starting point, I had similar set up. The rear, fitted first, was a big improvement, the forks a bit better.

And for the rear shock..This is all mountain bike not motorbike, but you get the idea

Exactly...I absolutely don’t want to put anyone off buying one, just a heads up to check.

On my mountain bike..I change on the fly, no screwdriver and not 5k.

I remember a v expensive mountain bike from yonks ago had a thumbshifter to do exactly that. Similar is available on newer CTD (climb trail descend) forks. It allows you to thumb shift between those modes. Wouldn’t that be good ? We could have plush, normal and red mist.

Well Stew, we always quoted ‘South of the river‘ , but gotta say, ‘other side of the Loch’ kills it.