RandyN

I don't think they are significantly lower but what I was looking for was less up turn on the bars. Meaning the stock bars made me have to hold my elbows up like riding a dirt bike and that put pressure on my wrists when I lowered elbows to a relaxed position. The new bar ends are less tilted upward.

Have never done it so can't directly answer your question. I'm almost positive you wouldn't need to drain oil though for this, but why not just wait till oil change time for replacement of it. If you have manual I'm sure it would tell you.

Yes. Very large Allen key, don't remember the size. Regular threads to remove.

That's a very hard question to answer as it is very subjective. I've replaced the tag holder with a Tail Tidy and I had no problem at all. I have no problem doing more difficult things though. It all depends on your skill level and what you want to take on. Having the manual will help a lot. PM me if you need manual.

For my bike, 2019 GT, it was loose bushings in the slider tubes. Also known as "metal sliders" 4FM-23171-40-00. I put the front wheel up off the ground and could pull and push the front wheel back and forth and see play/movement at the fork seal. I called Yamaha USA and they claim that is "normal". Their normal is to allow a certain amount of play (loose tolerance) to keep cost down. The problem I have with that philosophy is that that can induce oscillations and many unknowns into the handling of the bike. I ended up having the front end rebuilt by Traxxion Dynamics and that fixed some of that "clunk"

That would help with flooding on a regular, carb or throttle bodied system, but with this bike when you twist throttle it turns a sensor which then tells the computer what you want. I don't think it would open the throttle butterflies to WOT in this situation.

Mine was very tough to use for the whole time I owned it, 2 1/2 years, and finally would not work at all. I took it apart some and lubed it which did no good. It was stuck so badly that I could press as hard as I could and it would not go in (click to select). I had it replaced under warranty and the new one is great. The way it should have been from new. https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/B1J-83963-00-00?ref=0a619e88951a81b1664f10a7da717f020795ab99

If you are talking about the squiggly line about 3/4 inch from your chicken strip then that is where the different compounds meet and is normal. The side is softer and the center portion is harder.

Original Poster, Bill H

I had no problem having Vcyclenut do my flash and successfully change fan on temp. Point is it's not a problem to do if tuner wants to. Maybe OP's flasher didn't want to bother redoing it.

I have taken it apart, to a limited degree, to try to loosen up the action as I've had the same problem you describe. When I took off switch mechanism from the bars there is no problem to watch for at that point. I then saw 2 small crosshead screws and removed those and lifted out the mechanism. That is as far as I got. See photo with both screws removed. One is under the wire in top of photo. I lubed it with silicone grease. It helped a little but still isn't right. You'll see how it works and what the fix would most likely be, but I wasn't ready to try taking that apart. When you push the wheel it forces a ramped piece of plastic into the spring loaded ball bearing. In my opinion, if one were to disassemble that part you would most likely be able to soften the action by smoothing that plastic ramp by filing or sanding the profile of it. I just didn't feel like attempting it. If anyone else has gone further I'd like the info and help also.

That is the one I put on mine. Check out my review there. First one. From the looks of all the chips on my bike, I'm betting it's saved my ass a few times.

Just measured my 2019 (same as 2020) and came up with following; Horizontal between top bolts 204mm Vertical between top to bottom 122mm Horizontal distance on bottom 148mm I took a tape measure and went from center of JIS screw head cross to the other. Fairly accurate, although I am wrapping tape measure across curve of shield. This sounds like my measurements are close enough to yours to say they are the same when considering error factor.

I'm sure you'll get many suggestions but you might want to try starting with one of these. Only $27. Hardware is a bit hard to figure out. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HCX4J96/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 A friend put one on his Tracer GT and I rode it and noticed a major decrease in buffeting so I bought one for my Tracer too. Very adjustable for height and angle. You can even tilt it to scoop air into your chest on a hot day. Definitely worth it to me.

Yes, just like a lesser ratio throttle.