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StealthAu

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  1. Matris have an option with remote preload too. Worth a look.
  2. There are benefits to be had. Yamaha have to comply with stringent emissions laws, where as tuners do not. While improvements have been made over the previous generation, it can be smoother out more so. The ride by wire throttle can be ironed out to improve control. To determine if you want a tune, ride and see if there are things you don't like. For me, the low-mid range where it is in closed loop, it doesn't bother me. It could be improved, but this alone wouldn't motivate me to do so, where as on other bikes it has been the main motivation. What I do want to change, is the throttle delay. Taking off from a stop in A mode it is noticeable, as well as when giving it a handful anywhere in the rev range. A lot of people go with canned maps. This refers to generic tunes, mail the ecu in situation. I'd recommenced avoiding this where possible. You are better off taking your bike to a specialist and having them tune YOUR bike for YOU. Woolich Racing have a great interface for tuning our bikes and they are down your end of QLD. Have a chat with them, they are very informative and will be able to point you in the right direction should it be seen as beneficial to you.
  3. I have cold start issues now and then. Results from short rides with a cold engine. What I said, works for me in these situations. I get what you are saying though, on other bikes with ride by wire in the same situation required manual opening of the throttle valves.
  4. Not holding it at 1/4. open it a crack, hit the crank and if it doesn't fire, roll it on. What I was implying is that it will typically fire before the throttle is at 1/4 open. Not saying to stop at 1/4 if it doesn't fire, just minimise the time on the starter. There will be a note in the owners manual referencing not to run the starter extensively. Typically it'll say 8-10 seconds, I say 5 erring on the side of caution. I've bought cheap bikes in past where the plugs fowling inevitably ended with seized startors. I'm sure it takes a lot of abuse to get there, still, play it safe.
  5. You're trying to help mate, but suggesting cranking it for 10-20 seconds isn't a great idea. They aren't designed to be engaged for that long, they generate a lot of heat. Problems can occur as a result. Best to keep it under 5 second blasts with 5 seconds or so in between to dissipate heat. If it doesn't fire basically instantly with a little throttle, gently roll the throttle open while holding the starter. This is a process that'll take a couple seconds, throttle will be less than 1/4 open before it fires. If it doesn't fire up with this method within 5 seconds, turn it off for 5 seconds and try again. If it still doesn't fire up, trailer to the shop.
  6. If it is turning over but not firing, open the throttle a little while trying to start it.
  7. I think that was the TFC version, the ones above are the production version which follow.
  8. There are no issues mate. Some of the stock mounting hardware is removed to fit the madstrad. It is quite secure when fitted. High speeds, no issue.
  9. That is quite a shitty Ducati experience. Unfortunately, the dealers play a big part in stuff like this, some are good to deal with, others not. Same with any brand. Did you drop or crash the bike? If not, there is no reason why it should not have been covered.
  10. The BMW styling does seem to take some ques from the Yamaha. Saying the Multistrada is copying the Tracer might be a bit of a stretch. Ducati created this market some 15 years ago. The Yamaha is the cheaper option, and it shows. Budget brakes, budget suspensions, electronics, etc. It is a good bike for the price point, one of the reasons I bought it. Though, a higher priced version with brembo brakes, ohlins suspension and a more refined electronics package would be appealing.
  11. That little filling tube thing is pretty cool. My other three bikes do not have this, filling them up I need to squeeze the trigger gently, a little too much and fuel splashes out. With the GT, stick the nozzle in past the plate a couple inches, fill at max flow rate for most of the tank and drizzle in the rest. It is a quicker process. Thought it was odd the first fill up, but realised the advantage of having it pretty quickly.
  12. I weigh 220lb. With stock suspension setup as best as possible, I was bottoming out the forks and shock frequently. I never took a passenger on stock suspension, was bad enough riding it on my own. I've since upgraded the springs, front and rear. I can now ride as aggressively as I like with complete confidence in the bike. I've taken passengers, had the bike loaded up to 420lb without an issue. I upped the preload front and rear to suit and it handled fine, even under hard acceleration and braking. For yourself, at 300lb, I'd suggest if you purchase one of these, upgrade springs before even riding it. I wouldn't be too concerned with the max capacity rating, I would think this figure relates to the stock suspension more so than the chassis. Still, at your size, I would think there are probably going to be other bikes that would be a better choice.
  13. At times I do. Pillions rave about comfort, though I hate having them on this bike. The passenger pegs are too close to mine, my feet end up much further forward than I like. I usually take my cruiser if I'm taking a passenger. The peg positioning on the GT is a shame, as with the hydraulic preload on the shock, it is much more convenient in setting up for passengers.
  14. That seems a little excessive for sag. Was it set as such to get the seat lower, easier for you to get your feet on the ground, or is there another reason they set it there? What was the sag the set on the front?
  15. It will fit, same travel. Though, not worth getting one. They have remote preload, but are otherwise as equally shit to what you have.
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