Brian

Try a Corvette. Have had my C6 for 17 years. But I have gone from hopping in and out in my 40's... to falling onto the seat and rolling myself out in my 60's. Hell getting old!

Swapping to handlebar without the threads might be an option.

'15 FJ 48k Have small seeping at drain plug. US half-dollar size spot on cardboard when I park. Replaced crush washer twice. Did the drain plug mod a while back and can't recall if problem arose right after that was done. When I cut off the oil pan tab at the plug, could heat from blade or something have caused warping or cracking at the drain plug threads? Is my new (likely made in China) VW flush drain plug a piece of junk and not sealing as it should? Any other thoughts?

15 FJ-09 stock except Vcyclenut flash. I am in Houston, TX USA (elevation about 3ft) and am about to trailer my bike to SW Colorado to ride the lower Rockies...some at 11,000ft near Silverton. Can I expect any issues with the bike at that elevation? 35 years ago, My 1975 Chevy Blazer didn't run so well at high altitudes

As someone coming from a '98 Bandit 1200 with nothing, it is nice to have the safety systems on modern bikes. I have recently taken on, yet again, another girlfriend and she is smaller than the lady riding gear I currently have in my closet. So as I am buying her jacket/pants/boots, it has caused me to reflect on additionally how important personal protection is, especially for those hanging on behind you. I also took a look at my own gear and realized that the thin piece of back foam that came with my jacket was not enough so ordered a CE Level 2 back protector to insert instead. Also doubled up at elbows and shoulders with pads from old jackets. Plus, while ordering some frame and fork sliders online, watched their video on how they work that was a customer YouTube of him dropping on a low side with a not-so-obvious cause. You never know. Stay safe....and maybe do like I did.... take another look at your gear to make sure it will work for you "when" that surprise happens.

Good luck on a 3D print option. I may be on the lookout for some kind of plastic base to replace the plywood. I thought the eye bolt would be more concealed up underneath the rear rack, but really wasn't. So got a clamping knob from the local hardware store instead. Still working fine and happy to no longer having to find a place to shove the strap excess so they are not flapping around.

My 15 FJ has the OE rear rack and top case. I like the quick release feature of it but only have it on the bike when I need to haul something large or use as a pillion backrest. I prefer my small Givi tail bag with emergency tools, cable lock and misc. But due to the time to install it with the 3 straps, I found myself sometimes leaving it behind. I wanted some kind of tail bag quick release so could install it in the same 10 seconds it takes to mount the top case. So here is my "plywood on a bike...are you kidding me" solution. I made a plywood base that the bag stays attached to that has tabs in the front like the OE top case and is secured to the rack with an eyebolt requiring no tools. I used a metal construction strap under the rack, mounted with existing rack bolts that does not interfere with the top case locking mechanism. At the drilled hole through the ply base underneath the tail bag, I have a tee nut hammered into the wood that the eyebolt screws in to. I added a brake/tail light to my top case and so I also added a strip LED light on this one, at the curve of the plywood base. For tail bag anti-theft, the eyebolt can serve double-duty as my cable lock can run through it when I lock up my helmet or jacket. Pics are of the mounted bag with the eyebolt, top view of rack showing metal strap and underside of ply base. Total cost: $1 for the tee nut and $4 for the LED stop light. I had the rest.

I know $20 Grip Puppies foam handlebar grips are nice, but have read they still fail after a while. I have used the $9 no-names and was looking at finding a bulk buy so can have spares on hand to replace every year or two when they get nasty or torn. I came across a one meter piece of foam handle grip for $13 on Amazon. Cut into ten 4" pieces and you get 5 sets of grips. Just passing info along as an alternative. Foam Tubing for Handle Grip Support, Pipe Insulation, 28mm ID 38mm OD 1m Length Black

That takes me back so many years ago when I read "Motorcycling for Dummies" as a newbie and the Nighthawk came up as one of the best first bikes. Ended up with a Yamaha Radian....cool little bike to learn and to take the motorcycle safety course on. Remember the Radian YX600?

Yep. Crazy how much people are paying for repairs and maintenance. I am happy that my dad had me out in the garage before I could even drive to repair the cars my older sisters messed up. I am also on a C6 Corvette forum. Bought an 07 new. Read how some guys pay $1200 for a brake job. I reply that I have spent less than that on TOTAL repairs (brake jobs, alternator, radiator, hub bearings, drive axles, harmonic balancer) in the past 15 years by doing them myself.

Well I chuckled at first.... then realized that this was good info to remember.

Did it this weekend. Quite sure the gear oil chain lube job WAS the culprit as was dry around the seal on no leaks after 100 mile ride this morning. Seal looked good enough to leave alone and add the new one to may parts bin. I also got that exact Dupont lube and will use it from now on. Spot on about the nut not being peened down on the groove.....that nut was barely finger tight when I went to take it off. Just waiting to get stranded somewhere. Now just gotta learn how to do a better master link rivet squish. Ugly....hope it holds. Was a good time to replace the neutral/shift indicator switch while in there. I lived for years with the #1 and 5 indicators out....far enough apart, but when the N also went away, time to swap. Thanks all for the help. Much better than the old Bandit 1200 and always sliding out that 4-bank of carbs to mess with.

Thanks for excellent info. Chain and Sprockets: I DO have new sprockets and chain laying on a shelf. Reviews for the chain, after I bought it, are not that great so was probably not anxious to put it on. I will order the nut, seal and other stuff. And chain tool. Will pull out my shop manual.....but is the seal just a standard swap, or is there disassembly involved? Chain Oiling: From your replies, this might be a likely reason that never occurred to me. Last time I oiled used 90 weight gear oil and would not be surprised if i squirted on too much.

Hey all.....'15 FJ with 45k miles Noticed some oil seeping the last couple of months. Finally last night on a ride, leak was big enough to drip on my exhaust and billowed smoke around my legs. Before I cleaned it up and started searching, thought I would show a pic and see if there is a common spot that leaks in this area. The right side is completely dry. Is the shaft seal at the small sprocket a known area? Is dry above the sprocket. I parked on cardboard last night and only spot on ground is where oil is working its way down oil pan and dropping off the drain plug. Nothing at oil filter. Doesn't appear to be the pan gasket but I could be wrong. Thoughts?

Congrats.....not sure how close you are to Texas, but we can go ride sometime 🙂