Suu Kyi

Hi, got mine from Steve Downer in the UK, great product, here's his eBay site. Have also attached some photos of my own installation. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204298072659

Update - blew some air from a compressed airbrush can into the shaft of the back brake light switch to clear any debris, have an air compressor but didn't want the stream to be too strong. Then sprayed some electrical contact cleaner, waited awhile for that to dry and followed it with another squirt with compressed air. Finally I took advice from another forum and squirted WD40 PTFE dry lubricant. Fingers crossed, let's see how that goes.

Had issues with my cruise control activation light blinking on my 2019 GT a couple of years back, turned out to be the front brake switch which was replaced under warranty, all good after that. Then recently the problem came back, coincidently after a major service where I had the clutch cable replaced. Checked the cable, listened for the two clicks when the clutch lever is pulled in, all good, so is the adjustment. Checked the front brake lever for the two clicks, all good there too. Then looked at the rear brake, can't really hear any clicks but adjusted and lubricated it to make sure the switch wasn't being activated. Lubricated it by pumping some WD40 up the switch shaft. Every time I do this the problem goes away only to come back. Done it three times so far, so if it comes back again I'll be replacing it as pretty sure it's a sticking back brake switch as it responds to the WD40. No sense in having to keep doing this so best to replace it. Any thoughts?

Yea, must admit the securing lug doesn't inspire a lot of confidence. That said once located it appears to be quite solid. Have seen a post where someone attached a stick-on tether to the back of the unit and secured the other end somewhere, guess could use a carabiner. Something to consider as they're quite expensive and don't want to lose or damage it. Another option is to use a Tourtech locking mount but they're quite expensive. Any suggestions?

Hi, all installed and working a treat. Soldering the wires from the unit to the plug inserts took the longest as pretty fiddly due to the small size of the plug inserts. Other than that it was fairly straight forward. All the panels and cowling came off fairly easily. Took her for an 80km test run after and it's all working, no smoke coming from anywhere. Pretty pleased with the result. A big thank for all the responses and advice on this forum, couldn't have done it without your help.

Hi, have all the bits and pieces and am currently in the process of connecting the Garmin but I have one final question please. Is there an easy path to route the wire from the connector (once connected) through the back somewhere to the GPS, whether that's installed on the handlebars or higher up above the instruments? Thanks.

Hi Cozza, have all the bits and pieces and am currently in the process of connecting the Garmin but I have one final question please. Is there an easy path to route the wire from the connector (once connected) through the back somewhere to the GPS, whether that's installed on the handlebars or higher up above the instruments? Thanks.

I also came from an FJR, got a tad too big so moved to the Tracer 900GT in 2019, great bike, absolutely no regrets. The FJR pips it for comfort over long distances but the Tracer beats it in every other aspect. Looked at the new Tracer 9GT more than once, test rode it at least three times trying to convince myself to upgrade to the new model. Love the new engine & quick-shifter. Not keen on the new look or that miniscule low beam headlight. For me the deal breakers were the instruments and the wider foot-pegs which are the same as those on the FJR. Found the twin instrument screens almost impossible see during the day and the wider foot-pegs foul my legs when back pedalling. I'm 170cms (5'7"), not tall so cannot splay my legs further. Waiting for the 2023 model with a re-designed instrument cluster where they've gotten rid of the twin screens. Can change the pegs from the FJR to the current shorter items.

Hi, please see my preliminary update.

Preliminary update - have received the Garmin Zumo XT and paired it only to the Sena and NOT the phone. Did it this way as I won't always have the Zumo connected so that the phone connected to the Sena will work independently. Works a treat. Also; for the time being I've wired it for power from the existing auxiliary port and plugged into the USB on the Zumo, works well. Will hard wire it from the supplementary auxiliary power plug behind the screen when I receive the plugs which I've ordered.

Meant phone will be isolated for calls (not intercom), as you quite rightly say the phone plays no part in the intercom. So; Sena will be paired separately to the phone using HFP+A2DP, according to the manual (some kind of protocol definition) and HFP only to the XT. The phone will not be paired to the XT, hence isolated. All detailed in Sections 4.4.1 & 2 on pages 18 & 19 of the manual, hopefully my interpretation is correct, time will tell.

Thanks for your comments and advice, Section 4.4 of the manual is quite clear on the options. Think will only pair the Zumo with the Sena and not with the phone, that way the phone will be isolated for calls and intercom and the Zumo will only give verbal directions via the Sena. Means no need to have the Zumo connected all the time which is my preference. Let's see how this goes, will provide an update once done, thanks again.....

Hi, I have a Sena SRL2 headset on my Shoei GT Air II and will be getting a Garmin Zumo XT shortly. Question I have is after I pair the Zumo to my Samsung S10 smartphone and the Sena which of these will have priority? Meaning: (1) when it's all switched on will the Zumo pair with the phone or the headset, will both try to pair and be confused? (2) more importantly will my phone still pair with the headset if the Garmin is not turned on as don't intend to have the GPS on all the time; and (3) will the intercom on the Sena with other riders still function? Thanks, Michael.

Thanks, leaning towards hard wiring using the provided additional auxiliary cables, may talk to the dealer for some additional advice and perhaps even scrounge some bits off them plus get a quote for them to install should I lose my nerve/patience etc.

Hi, a very Happy New Year to you all. Getting myself a Garmin Zumo XT GPS to save getting lost or stopping to check the phone for directions. Looks like I have two two options for power; use the existing auxiliary power outlet and a USB adaptor into the back of the Zumo (will that work?) or hard wire it into the spare auxiliary behind the dash. Option one will be quick and easy and the rig will be removable, but will that be ok and will that outlet be able to handle the current draw? Option two means taking off the screen, plate and cowling behind the screen to gain access to the spare cable but that would also mean joining the cable and soldering with shrink tubing etc for the twin plugs. Anyone have experience with this and what option would you recommend? Thanks.

Thanks, pretty sure I ordered them from this mob a few weeks back, didn't show out of stock then and accepted the order but subsequently gave me a refund but will give them a call just in case, like you say, they may be able to source them for me.

Hi, I'm looking for 2 replacement Rubber Ratchet Covers for my Shoei GT Air II. Can see some available overseas and reasonably cheap but the postage is more than AUD 50. I live in Perth Western Australia so any ideas please? Thanks.

Thanks for your comments and yes it seems loosening and tightening on the side stand is to prevent the bike being shoved off the centre stand due to the high axel torque setting, hence I now torque it up to no more then 80 ft lbs. I also adjust the chain slack to around 40mm. The manual says 35 to 45mm.

Thanks for your comments and yes I agree, loosening and tightening on the side stand is to prevent the bike being shoved off the centre stand due to the high axel torque setting, hence I now torque it up to no more then 80 ft lbs. I also adjust the chain slack to around 40mm. The manual says 35 to 45mm.

Sorry, duplicate post, meant to post in the Tracer 900GT forum.

Looked through some old posts on chain adjustment but couldn't find an answer to my particular question, hence why I'm starting a new post on this common subject. The manual states that to adjust the chain tension the axel and adjuster nuts should be loosened whilst the bike is on the side stand. Then raise the bike onto the centre stand, adjust and align aiming for a slack between 35mm to 45mm, then place the bike down onto the side stand and tighten the axel and adjusters. Why would you need to loosen and tighten on the side stand and adjust on the centre stand? I've always loosened, adjusted and finally tightened all on the centre stand, then off onto the side stand for a final check. Your thoughts and practices will be appreciated please. Thanks, Michael......

Looked through some old posts on chain adjustment but couldn't find an answer to my particular question, hence why I'm starting a new post on this common subject. The manual states that to adjust the chain tension the axel and adjuster nuts should be loosened whilst the bike is on the side stand. Then raise the bike onto the centre stand, adjust and align aiming for a slack between 35mm to 45mm, then place the bike down onto the side stand and tighten the axel and adjusters. Why would you need to loosen and tighten on the side stand and adjust on the centre stand? I've always loosened, adjusted and finally tightened all on the centre stand, then off onto the side stand for a final check. Your thoughts and practices will be appreciated please. Thanks, Michael......

Chain brand is DID. Regularly maintained, adjusted, oiled etc. Predominantly around town with the occasional long trips of around 1k kms carrying full panniers and a top box. No salt on the roads or the like, no such thing in Perth Western Australia. A bit more detail; came across a tight spot in the chain, not too serious so did the adjustment based on that spot. Got bike serviced the other day and mechanic pointed out that chain has a tight spot and hence may be on the way out, meaning replacement of the chain and the sprockets. Have come across tight spots in chains on my previous bikes and haven't really worried about it unless it got to a point where the difference between tight and loose sections made it quite difficult to adjust. So; wait till it gets really bad?

Hi, up for a new chain and sprockets, 2019 GT's done around 32k kms. Had to change the OEM chain at around 10k because of the bad chain batch which caused the seals (O rings) to separate. Means I only got around 20k kms on the new chain and sprockets. Is this normal?

Thanks for your comments, much appreciated. As I suspected, different modes modify the ECU mapping.