flyfifer

I have just covered 1000 miles or so over four days, (ferry from Cairnryan, around a fair bit of Ireland and back - most of it in torrential rain). To mitigate the discomfort of the seat I had the sheepskin cover crudely fixed to the seat and the piece of 20mm gel between the two. Definite improvement, so I might bite the bullet and DIY a gel seat.

That is a useful photo !👍 Looking fwd to your critique.

I have only had my GT ten days or so but three outings totalling 700 miles convince me the Standard seat is not comfortable. I have had a sheepskin cover on it for 400 of those miles and it has not helped. For my Tiger800 I bought a cheap second hand seat, took the cover off, scalped out "foam" and inserted a gel block and stapled the cover back. That worked. No source of a cheap GT seat but I am reluctant to attack the new seat --- despite it being uncomfortable. Definitely Rock and a Hard place !

Today's observation. If you are going to fit a Radiator Guard that uses the two radiator fixing bolts -- do it before you fit LED lights. My brackets and lights were in the way when I fitted my Radiator Guard today. Not terminally just annoyingly !

I have GIVI crash bars and the Denali Sound Bomb (not Mini) fits perfectly on the inside of the bar using a Pclip.

Once you decide to do it, removing the Screen, The Adjuster Unit and the Lower metal plate, is extremely easy. The fasteners all behave impeccably and line up on re-assembly with no fuss. I would only add --- mark the four lower plate holes with a magic marker before taking the screws out, so no mistakes using the wrong holes on re-assembly.

For clarity. The grey thing is a dummy cover over an auxiliary white socket.

I have been on the forum for a few weeks as part of the pre- purchase research. I sold my Tiger800 and became a Tracer 900 GT owner on 2nd August. Various bits have been fitted and the first service is scheduled for next week. Looking forward to many happy hours on a fantastic value machine.

I too have an RAC badged unit and decided having read this thread, to see if taking it out of the case was viable (to reduce its size). Stupidly I forgot to measure it but it is 4inches-ish square X 1.5inch using good old imperial. Taking the case off exposes the motor with a very vulnerable shaft with a cooling fan on the end as well as the tiny compressor. Removing it from the case is NOT viable. It does not fit under the pillion seat.

Coop, The prime reason I put my relay in the seat area is my ",behind the screen" space is full of Garmin "charger" and my "smart fuse box" which feeds the Garmin, Hella Socket and Led lights. Sounds like you have a plan. Have you decided where to mount the Bomb --- they are heavy brutes ! Mine is mounted on my Givi crash bars.

Two gripes. The position of the Ignition Switch. Bent key liability. Having to use a menu to select heated grips ---- I am suddenly cold , I don't want to fiddle about on a screen.

Coop, Answering your question but not directly. I have just fitted a Denali Sound Bomb which like your Steibel pulls a lot of current. With the seats off you will see a lot of space between the "plastic," and the frame of the bike --- in the rider's seat area. After doing the wiring I put the Type 86 relay in there --- you will need to use a relay. So --- I ran a wire, to from the switched positive to the existing horn, along the side of the tank tucked down into the plastic. There is one button head screw up at the rider's seat area holding the panel on. Take the screw out and it will let you ease the plastic panel out a little. The horn positive operates the relay coil. You will need to take wires from both 12v and -ve of the battery to the relay. Both capable of handling 18amps. You will need to take -ve from the battery to your Steibel AND the output 12v from the relay. Both wires capable of handling the 18amps. Google type 86 relay for a circuit drawing. The 12v and -ve can be run to the Steibel in the "same channel" that the 12v feed got to the relay. Alternatively take 12v and -ve 18amp wires up to the space behind the screen and locate the relay in there. Put a 20amp fuse in the 12v feed to the relay. Lots of words -- easier in practice.!

The fundamentals of the mounting system I have made. I found that by taking the plastics off one side only I could get good access to that side, suss out what I was doing and was able to replicate on the other side without taking the plastics off. The sketch is sketchy but the key sizes are there. Two bits of 20mm x 4mm x 235mm long, for the "legs". Each leg with three 8mm holes on the centre line. One length of 8mm screwed rod 325mm long. Two nylon (or similar) spacers 18mm long x 18mm dia, with an 8mm hole longitudinally. Two bits of 25mm x 2mm , to make the two 90deg angle brackets. I drilled these 8mm but used 6mm screws to keep some wriggle room. Two bits of nylon or similar 22mm dia x 60mm long with an 8mm central hole, to mount the lights on. Alternatively could put a 90 deg bend on the end of longer "legs" and mount the lights -- the round nylon makes it easier to adjust the light angle.

Anybody in the UK looking for a Switched Fuze Box could do worse than check out the offering on this site. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.marksmotorcycleparts.co.uk/&ved=2ahUKEwix24CVyOfjAhWSilwKHbaMDfMQFjAAegQIBhAD&usg=AOvVaw0irLmkiVv-aRZzOBeNv_b0 I have used the fuse box on several bikes.

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