TracerAU

Thanks to both of you for suggesting the fuel tank breather. I think this may be the issue. Today it was just as hot as yesterday. But before I tried to start the bike, I did as johnmark101 suggested and opened the fuel cap to equalize pressure. The bike started straight away. I'll investigate the fuel tank breather hose.

It was fairly warm here today 32C (89F). I went to start the bike after work and noticed it was hard to start. I made sure the fuel pump primed, but it was still hard to start. I've noticed this happens on hot days. It may also be a factor that the bike was in direct sunlight.

I got my arm twisted by this thread. Just got the cheap ebay version. $25 bucks well spent. The only issue was that the supplied screws for the front were too long. So I just replaced with some shorter ones that I had. Aside from that it's great.

Thanks, that's a great explanation. My other bike is a Harley Sportster, and I'm just too used to the way that works. With that every time you flick the switch to run, the fuel pump primes.

Ok, thanks for confirming. I suspect in the past, I must have mostly flicked the switch to run prior to the logo display. This behavior just seems odd to me, in that the fuel pump does not prime unless you switch it to run before the logo appears.

The first thing I checked when I got home was the battery. It showed 13v with bike off. And over 14v with bike running. That seems ok to me. Having said that it is an old battery, the build date of the bike in late 2016. So I suspect the battery is that old too.

Yes, I usually shut the bike down by switching the red switch to stop and then I turn the key off. And then I start by turning the key on first and then flicking the switch to start. But I seem to remember the fuel pump used to prime every time the switch was put into run position with the key on. It doesn't seem to do that now.

Today I went to ride home from work and the bike was really hard to start from cold. It look around three attempts at the starter switch and it eventually started. On getting the bike home I shut it off and re-started, all was fine. But I noticed that there was no fuel pump priming noise. I played around a bit with the ignition switch and I noticed sometimes the pump would prime and other times not. I eventually worked out that if the key was off and the switch was in the run position, the pump would prime as soon as I turned the key on every time. I also worked out that if I turn the key to on and put the switch in the run position prior to the display initialising, the fuel pump would always prime. Very strange problem. I'ts not a show stopper, because I'll just make sure that the switch is in the run position prior to turning the key, so it should start fine tomorrow. Has anyone experience this issue? I hate to say it but it seems ECU related.

It's better than what I got with my Harley. Picture the desktop above with nothing on it.

Here's the toolkit that came with my new 2017. The combo screw driver and hex key are attached to the bottom of the pillion seat. The other tools are in the recess under the pillion seat. The wire is a helmet lock.

Agree with Wordsmith, you won't be able to flat foot it. I'm 5'8" and I can get both feet on the ground comfortably with my 2017 Tracer 900. But I can't flat foot it. I still get good leverage with my heels slightly off the ground. It all depends on your inseam. I have a 31" inseam, 32" with boots on. Don't forget if the bike is too high for you there are lowering links and seats you can use. I think the bare minimum for safety is being able to get both feet touching the ground with somewhat decent leverage for parking.

Here are some pics of the Givi SR2122 mounting rack coupled with the M7 mounting plate. This mounting plate allows you to use any Givi Monokey top box. I already had the Givi v47 top box from my other bike, so thought it would be a useful option for the Tracer. I've put up some pics with the top box and then some with the side cases as well. With all cases installed, there's 87 litres of storage.

Good score. Great thing about the FJR1300 cases, is you can fit a full face helmet in them.

I tightened and loctite'd my case locks after seeing TwoWheelObsession's video on this issue. Mine were lightly finger tight at best with no loctite. Most likely installed that way at the dealers. Things do fall off. On the very first decent outing with my bike, I had the left hand bar end weight fall out. Completely lost the bolt, weight and spacer somewhere on the road. Didn't event notice them fall off. In checking the right hand bar end weight it was only finger tight and again no loctite. I'd advise checking your bar end weights adding loctite. I found some other screws on the hand guards loose as well.

I too say that every bike I get, but I'm already failing. I've ordered the Givi mounting rack and plate for the top box. I already have a Givi v47 from my other bike, so I figure it would be good to use it on the Tracer as well.

Hi Wordsmith, I'm in Adelaide. Hey, I saw your thread about painting the pannier lids, great stuff. I've been thinking of doing the same.

Just like to say hi. I'm the owner of a new 2017 Tracer 900. I bought it a couple of months ago and I've put about 1200km on it so far. I absolutely love it. The bike was new old stock and came with hard panniers. It only had 5km on the clock when I picked it up. I've done some minor mods to it so far: FJR1300 replica foot pegs Factory quick shifter kit 40mm mirror extenders Great to see a dedicated Tracer forum. I don't plan on doing too many mods to the bike. Like many others I'm really interested in a cruise control option. I see the best option so far is the MC Cruise, but I'll keep an eye on developments.