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v1nn1e

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  • Location
    Surrey, UK
  • Bike
    2016 Tracer

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  1. Perhaps someone can make a sticky about the need to have the final drive chain a LOT LOT looser than stated in the manual, at leas the manual that comes with the early bikes. I upped it a little from the manual but you need to be aiming at nearly 40mm plus to ensure the chain doesn't run out of slack before the swing arm arc has reached it's maximum extension.
  2. Just got back from an MOT where there was an advisory that the chain was too tight. I did my usual check on the centre stand and it was around 30mm, so went back to them to argue the toss. The mechanic sat on the bike and asked me to take a look at the chain - not quite drum tight but pretty close, and I'd say the suspension wasn't quite compressed to the maximum arc of the swing arm. Mine's a 2016 and the manual says 5-15mm, which I've been ignoring, but clearly even 30mm is not enough. I'm going to aim at 35-45mm. What the HECK were Yamaha thinking when they said 5-15mm? Does anyone know of someone successfully claiming for replacement bearings from Yamaha, when they've failed? 😡😡😡
  3. Does anyone know if this will fit a 2016 standard tracer? Thanks
  4. Agreed. I'm in the situation that my wife never goes on the back, so tours are a one man band. I have a couple of Oxford rollbags in different sizes to suit the trip, and with a rear carrier they sit nicely behind me over the pillion seat and rack. Many thanks to Betoney and BBB - will be going ahead later today! :)
  5. Assumed the later single piece cast alloy carrier would fit my 2016 model - ummm, no! Appears the 2015/16 models used a different composite carrier that to my eyes looks a lot less attractive. I have been spoiled by the similar carrier on my previous F800ST BMW. The only incompatibility that I've found appears to be the side-lip of the plastic tray under the pillion seat, just forward of the front mounting lugs. The carrier fouls this slightly. I'm thinking of slicing off the offending plastic so that it will fit - but wanted to check if anyone else has done the same? Or is there a modified under tray that can be fitted instead? Or perhaps there is more to it than slicing through plastic and I'm about to open up a can of worms!!??? Thanks
  6. Thanks for the info. Never heard of CorrosionX before. Is this an ACF50 competitor...?
  7. My bike had a couple of years living out on the kerbside and it shows with general corrosion here and there. This includes the lower engine bolts, including the sump ones and I'm wondering about replacing them all, just for a bit of cosmetic bling! If I were to go ahead, would the threads of the new bolts need a drop of something on them prior to insertion? Either: Thread lock? Copper grease? Anyone know if the factory put something on these bolts before assembly? Thanks
  8. For anyone that has got to a second check, were all the clearances subsequently OK. Wondering if there is initial bedding in that gets picked up at 24k?
  9. Thought my cable had gone the other day when the clutch lever didn't release fully as I was pulling away from lights. Checked it out a little way down the road and everything was just stiff. Managed to get to and from work and then once home lathered the arm, spring and cable at the engine end in WD40 and then slackened off the handlebar adjuster and removed the cable from the lever end. Slowly worked some three-in-one lubricating and penetrating oil down the inner, didn't have long as was due elsewhere. Re-fitted and transformed! Reminder to self - lube the clutch cable more often!!!!
  10. Bugie, Had exactly the same. As per the original post-er, I had no crush washer, not even a flattened one. Got some generic aluminium washers off ebay and loosely re-fitted drain plug while awaiting arrival. When I went to re-fit more oil came out after I removed the plug! Maybe I'll leave the bike overnight in the future, after an oil drain!
  11. Cheapest new-ish Sept '19 reg GT I've seen in the UK is very low miler ex-demo from dealer at £9,295
  12. I would say the only way to really do an mpg comparison is to find some time when you can get out on the open road, reset your avge mpg display and sit at a steady speed for a good 20-30 miles. Then see what reading you get. Even that figure will depend on your weight, tyre pressures and also the wind speed and direction at the time. Mixed and urban riding is soooooooo dependent on rider input that varies hugely from one person to the next. As a final observation, a typical factory ECU tune is going to be set to comply with emissions regulations and that means very lean, i.e. high mpg figures. Almost any aftermarket ECU modification will enrich the mixture and reduce mpg.
  13. Here it is, after about 500 miles and just been washed... The headers are due another going over with Harpic!
  14. USD/EUR Exchange rate to GBP has been fluctuating a bit recently (and maybe a lot more by tomorrow!) but when I was looking around back in the summer there were brand new pre-reg '19 standard bikes available for £8499 On The Road. Winter prices now are down as low as ~£7,500 for very low miler ex-demo dealer bikes.
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