geko

Does it look like the one in this post ? https://www.tracer900.net/topic/3503-rear-axle-and-chain-adjuster-issues-a-story/

My UK 2019 GT also reads about 7-8% faster than GPS and my partners 2010 Fazer 8 is at least as bad and she insists on sticking to speed limits according to the bike even though she knows it's wrong 😟. I know it's a limit and not a target - and I'm reminded every time I say anything 😂

Yes, absolutley, I'm sure you could make a button work with the existing microswitch. Just needs to push against the body of the encoder wheel assembly where the tab is that actuates the microswitch. In fact when I was looking at it I really wonder why they didn't just use a separate button. I'm a bit more of an electronics guy than mechanical so went with my skills and parts 🙂 What I would say is that it is easy to take a look inside the switch block, nothing is going to fall apart or disappear into the bike so worth taking a peek to see if you could add a button mod to it.

So I finally got round to adding a separate switch for the menu select on my Tracer 900GT after putting up with it for the last two and half years. I had a look at some wiring diagrams from a PDF copy of a manual but it didn't seem to match with the colour on the wiring inside the R/H switch block. However, I did find that the menu select microswitch itself had two wires connecting directly to it, and the PVC outer sheath over all the wires coming into the switch block could be pushed back a good way allowing access to the wires within. After a bit of deliberation because there is no going back from this step, I got the side cutters out and cut the two wires to the microswitch leaving some tails long enough to reconnect the original switch if needed in the future. I put some heatshrink over these and tucked them out of the way. Next I soldered some tails onto the cut wires coming in from the wiring loom, put heatshrink over the joints and slid some 5mm PVC tubing over the two wire tails. I then reassembled the scroll wheel into the switch block and looped the new tails and sleeving back out replacing the original cable tie to hold it all in place. I then wired it up to a non-latching push-to-make switch and mounted that using one of the screws on the throttle steering tube assembly. I found the switch and bracket assembly on Amazon. I should note that the supplied switch was of the latching type and is no use for this application. I mainly bought it for the stainless steel bracket as I had an identical style push-to make switch in the workshop so I just swapped it. Although I pulled the R/H plastics off when I was investigating how to do this, in the end I just made the mod at the switch block so if you want to do this mod there is no need to remove any plastics. Just undo the two screws holding the start switch / scroll wheel block to get inside in it. Having got it all back togther it works great - wish I'd done it two years ago.

In the PDF version of the owners manual on page 5-1 it says Operation and important riding points TIP This model is equipped with: an engine auto-stop system. The engine stops automatically if left idling for 20 minutes. If the engine stops, simply push the start switch to restart the engine.