CumuloNimbus

Had mine fitted by my dealer. I think they look good and probably give you some leg protection if T-boned? They didn't fit the Givi logo box thing, which I didn't want anyway. It does make it harder to clean the bike though.

Just to add a little detail to the coolant thermostat, the parts diagram in this link Yamaha TRACER 900 GT 2018 WATER PUMP with fast delivery to United States | Fowlers Parts Yamaha TRACER 900 GT | 2018 | BLUISH GRAY SOLID 4 | England | WATER... shows item 21 as the thermostat assembly. Just below that (but not numbered in this diagram, the square thing) is the oil cooler. I've been warned that it could get hit and potentially punctured by road debris flying up from the front wheel. If that happened, the first you might know about it, is when your rear tyre gets a liberal coating of oil. So worth keeping an eye on for damage and leaks! It's also worth noting I suppose that it is a water cooled oil cooler, (and air cooled to some extent) so if it failed internally, you'd probably get oil in the header tank and symptoms similar to a blown head gasket, etc.

3sum, the parts diagram shows a complete "cap assembly" and the O ring on the cap seals against the top of the filling tube. You could remove the assembly and it might be possible to drill out or cut off the end. If you regretted doing so, you can replace the assembly for £250+ !! But as stated, there are more pros than cons in my opinion. Provides; the required volume for expansion, restricts nozzle to petrol only, protects against major splash-back (unless you do as I did once, when the nozzle slipped and fuel sprayed back all over the tank when one week old), for consistent "full" level, etc. At a petrol station the other day, the cashier wouldn't let another bike re-fuel until he was off his bike. Having seen a few flambéed riders on Utube, getting off the bike so you can run away without dropping the bike and adding to the blaze seems a good idea, so anything to reduce the chance of getting fuel on your hot engine, exhaust and your clothes seems a good idea too.

I've got an anti-reflective film and another dash warning light in this sequence.

I see. I wonder if because the bike is designed to have a pillion and luggage, Yamaha set the parameters based on a potentially fully loaded bike, so when riding solo, the abs feels a little too cautious? Presumably an army of Yammy test riders throw the bike down the worst bits of road in the worst circumstances until they don't fall off and then settle on %slip rate to cover themselves when their customers find themselves in not such bad circumstances. Sorry this is getting a bit off topic. When I drive a car on snow, the sensation created by abs of ploughing straight on is alarming when you know that a locked wheel is going to stop the car quicker. Fine if you need to steer to miss the car or whatever to avoid hitting it, but annoying when you are braking in a straight line. When I was about 12, (1970's) I went to a BMW promotional demonstration of their world-first new ABS equipped cars. Hired Le Mans winner Derek Bell hit the brakes at 80mph on a wetted Goodwood track. Unfortunately the spectatators thought they had told him to brake on this line and he'd be able to stop before hitting the cones, which would have been impressive. But with the abs turned off, he skittled the cones and everyone there thought that these new fantastic stop-on-a-sixpence brakes were not much good. Next run, with the abs on, he hit the brakes, last minute swerve and missed the cones, then eventually stopped a couple of car lengths further on than before. So the demonstration didn't impress much because the expectation then (as now) is that ABS will save your bacon and magically stop the vehicle quicker than if you lock up the wheels. The best bit though was when the customer rides were just over and my Dad blagged me a ride in the front passenger seat around the circuit with Derek in the black 528i, now with shagged tyres.

StealthAu I'm curious about your comment that the ABS is too intrusive. To my mind if the system detects that you have wheels going at different speeds, whatever the % of slip they programme into the system, you have a front tyre that is slipping and therefore the % likelihood of your head hitting the tarmac is also increased. I presume that Yamaha and whoever set up the system, build in a safety margin for their customer's benefit. This paragraph from Wiki is interesting as it mentions the rear wheel lifting, which will activate the ABS and take away some front brake. My dealer told me that somewhere in the maintenance menu is a log which will tell them if you have been cleaning your chain with the engine running. They know this because the front wheel isn't moving. And they can then tell you off! "Basic principle Wheel speed sensors mounted on front and rear wheel constantly measure the rotational speed of each wheel and deliver this information to an Electronic Control Unit (ECU). The ECU detects on the one hand if the deceleration of one wheel exceeds a fixed threshold and on the other hand whether the brake slip, calculated based on information of both wheels, rises above a certain percentage and enters an unstable zone. These are indicators for a high possibility of a locking wheel. To countermeasure these irregularities the ECU signals the hydraulic unit to hold or to release pressure. After signals show the return to the stable zone, pressure is increased again. Past models used a piston for the control of the fluid pressure. Most recent models regulate the pressure by rapidly opening and closing solenoid valves. While the basic principle and architecture has been carried over from passenger car ABS, typical motorcycle characteristics have to be considered during the development and application processes. One characteristic is the change of the dynamic wheel load during braking. Compared to cars, the wheel load changes are more drastic, which can lead to a wheel lift up and a fall over. This can be intensified by a soft suspension. Some systems are equipped with a rear wheel lift off mitigation functionality. When the indicators of a possible rear lift off are detected, the system releases brake pressure on the front wheel to counter this behavior.[37] Another difference is that in case of the motorcycle the front wheel is much more important for stability than the rear wheel. If the front wheel locks up between 0.2-0.7s, it loses gyrostatic forces and the motorcycle starts to oscillate because the increased influence of side forces operating on the wheel contact line. The motorcycle becomes unstable and falls. " So why do you find it too intrusive? Are you generally late and hard on the brakes. Are your tyres worn unevenly? Is your road surface crap? I can see that traction control needs to be adjustable to suit the rider, but not ABS. Either the front is slipping or it's not, surely?

I don't agree that it's a sales gimmick. It's not there to save you time. I drive a car with a DSG gearbox (Direkt-Schalt-Getriebe) and a racing car with Geartronics pneumatic operated paddle shift, both of which allow similar open and/or full throttle clutchless up and down gear shifts in a few milliseconds. One of the advantages is you keep both hands on the steering wheel. I find that the quickshifter allows more control over the bike because you don't move your hands to upshift, just your left foot a little. If you're accelerating hard, maybe overtaking, crossing the central white line and catseyes maybe, whatever, you have less to do, have better contact with the bars and therefore more control. I like the QS, wish it downshifted too sometimes, but actually when you are downshifting, your weight is more on the heel/palms of your hands anyway and your fingers are un-weighted and free to waggle the lever and twist the throttle, whereas while upshifting and accelerating, your fingers are busy stopping you falling off the back of the bike. Of course we all hang on with our knees too!

Suu Kyi Rode my new pegs today. They must be okay because they didn't draw attention to themselves at all. Certainly didn't notice any vibration, felt comfortable and secure, so a thumbs up so far. Interesting to hear the rubber lasted 3 seasons, which isn't bad for the £$. After your mention of the Niken OEM pegs, I had a look and couldn't find them. They certainly look better quality and the lean indicator/hero blob looks more the part. I'd prefer to have those. From what I could find, to get those pegs you have to order all of the component parts which soon adds up. Is there a complete set for sale from Yamaha? Mine measure 9cm too. I've always had my legs catch pegs on various bikes when paddling backwards, thought this was normal actually. It's never bothered me. I was catching the billet pegs too.

My dealer fitted the optional black billet touring pegs from new. https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/gb/en/products/accessories/accessories-overview/billet-touring-foot-pegs-rider-2pp-frfpg-10-00/2pp-frfpg-00-00/ Whilst they are okay and probably better than the standard pegs, I didn't like the fact there are no hero blobs/lean angle indicators with them, no holes to screw them into. As I don't want the centre stand to tell me I've gone far enough, I've just fitted the FJR ebay specials. Very cheap!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332373390868. but actually they look okay and fitted easily. I ride with them tomorrow. Although they have small hero blobs, I didn't like the look of the original long ones. They look big, comfy and vibration reducing anyway.

Thanks for the above info OLD DVB. I have just fitted Nitron fully adjustable dampers and cartridge kit to my Triumph Speed Twin so I need lots of this advice while I make the various adjustments to suit. Anyway the reason I mentioned this was that Nitron, who are in Eynsham, near Oxford are looking for a willing 900GT owner who wants to improve their suspension, to leave their bike with them for a week or two, and they will fit their latest kit for a very reasonable discount. They've just put up a request on FaceB. I've just done this with my Triumph as they wanted to create a new fork kit to suit the new model and I didn't want to have Ohlins. They asked me if I would be a willing Tracer GT owner too. I am willing, but not so able at the moment, as the bike is in regular use. Maybe someone here might like to get in touch with them? I also need to set up my GT which is new to me, so I'm gratefull you have shared your old records. You may have/probably have come across Dave Moss Tuning.com. He's a proper suspension guru and has just bought himself a Tracer GT which he has started to write about, detailing all the fine tuning he is doing to his bike. Worth a read, but you might have to subscribe. He has hundreds of YT videos too. Definitely worth a look for anyone mildly interested in bike suspension set-up and ergonomics.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PANNIER-LINER-BAGS-FOR-YAMAHA-TRACER-900GT-TRACER-900GT-CITY-TRACER-900GT-2019/193081792951?hash=item2cf49259b7:g:X1wAAOSwFcJdb~Fo Used these bags inside my GT panniers today. Very pleased with them so far. Seem well made, come flat as there are two main zips on each side. There are some rubbery feet and an adjustable carrying strap. There's a zipped document type pocket on one side and a similar folder pocket on the inside. They fit well inside the pannier and go behind the X straps. Good value for less that £30.

I did about 120 miles with the smaller screen today. COL64997 MRA Yamaha Tracer 900 & 900GT 2018> Onwards Motorcycle Sport Screen (SPM) 1 Screen Tint - : Smoked/Grey It was a warm 22 degC Hampshire afternoon and I'm running the bike in, so 80'ish max. I'm relieved to say I'm happy with it. The lowest position seems best. I get clean air and no turbulence, so much the same as a naked bike. I can feel the wind from my collarbones up I suppose which on a warm day was good. So wind noise was as expected. I wear the soft yellow foam earplugs. I tried the highest position too. Less wind on my neck, so just catching the chin bar of my Arai, certainly a bit more noise from the more turbulent air which I noticed was moving my head around a bit. I think that would quickly become tiring so I dropped it down to the lowest position and my head stopped moving. I'm about 5' 11" and I'm sitting on the standard seat in the standard low position. The screen looks good, it's well made, the 4 flanged socket head button screws come with thin plastic washers and a couple of 3mm plastic spacer-washers for under the two lower screws, with a couple of small O rings to hold the washers in place while you install the screen. No spares. I've yet to try the taller Vario Touring screen which I hope will work best in the wet and cold. But at least I don't have that awful distracting constant racket from the stock screen.

Thanks for the photo and your comments quetech. I ordered both this morning from bikehps.com, the short sport version and the vario-touring screens. Hopefully both will have their advantages over the stock screen in summer and winter. Willing to try anything to stop the noise! and I'm used to riding a naked bike. They phoned to check I actually did want both and they've already been dispatched. Great service.

In response to some of the earlier posts above; this group of three videos from MC Garage do a good job of explaining gears, clutch-less shifts and quick-shifters, particularly good if you've never had the chance to see what's on the other end of your shift pedal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xtghypx8mII https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viWuolNYGyI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlBhPZdVqb8 IMO "and only when accelerating", in the Tips section, is relevant because when you close the throttle, even a little, you stop accelerating. That changes/reverses the loads on the transmission and makes it a little harder for the system to work as intended when pulling the quickshifter.

2019 Yamaha Tracer 900 GT – Owner's Manual – 120 Pages – PDF This one does.

I think the term "full-throttle" in the manual is a little misleading. The bike is designed for road use, so not many people will fully open the throttle. Maybe on the track. It might also imply that you have to red line it before shifting up a gear. I think a better way to describe it would be that the QS system allows for open-throttle, clutch-less, electronically-assisted upshifts. As stated above closing the throttle and expecting the QS to work smoothly is not how the system is programmed. Just hold the throttle still at the point you want to upshift, "when traveling at least 20 km/h (12 mi/h) with an engine speed of 2300 r/min or higher, and only when accelerating."