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helene

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    Grottoville, IN

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  1. Dear all, I get some very concerning readings of the exhaust side valve lash at 24k. Just to confirm, the exhaust valves on a cylinder, check at the same crank position as the intake? By inference, this should be correct because there is no overlap between opening in this triple... is it? If I read my exhaust lash correctly, and I have not yet experienced a chordal failure (because the reading I get would indicate massive beat-in), I can only infer that the specifications are incorrect in the manual? Kind of like their crackpot specified drive chain slack? Did the factory set the valve lashes to the same spec all around initially, and the lash is in fact rather stable? All my stator-side exhaust valve lashes are at .003". The clutch-sides are .006". Specified minimum is .010"!! In all likelihood it is me not measuring correctly... I'll go back and triple-check... Any input welcome.
  2. I'll try again tomorrow. If all else fails I will replace the clutch cable, as I've always chafed at the ridiculous kink it has, past the overly long rigid tube and ferrule coming out of the perch. This has to be one of the ugliest kludges I have seen from factory... that and the soft aluminium rear axle adjuster blocks... otherwise brilliant engine and more fun than expected.
  3. Well, I also have a 2015 Candy Red Tracer :) and I also am having a bear of a time trying to adjust the clutch cable; there seems to be no adjustment that will pull the clutch in, it almost look like my actuator arm is slipping?? When I think that I have it aligned with the arrow, I actuate my lever, check that I am not coming out of gear, look at the bottom end actuating lever again and sure enough, it's backed about 10-12 degrees What gives? I have never pulled the clutch cover or done anything to the actuator. Just replaced my stock levers for Pazzos.
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