SlipperyNiblets

It's been a while but I got the bike back together and along with a twdw tune and akrapovic exhaust, it runs perfectly, thanks for all your help. Now to wait for spring....

the guy in the write up here has the same PFP as you, I appreciate the help. https://www.fz09.org/threads/how-to-install-ape-cct.3595/ Now if that gasket would only get here I can hit the starter and pray.

@skipperT I can wiggle the exhaust side of the chain a little bit, but cannot get the screwdriver blade underneath the chain. As it sits now the intake side of the chain does not move at all. How tight should I set my manual tensioner?

No worries, I wouldn't wish a valve and a piston meeting on anybody. I have done many things to many vehicles but a valve job is a first. I appreciate any and all input.

Thanks skip, I will test that when it gets warmer than freezing tomorrow, is the pair valve part of the AIS system which I deleted?

does anybody know what this blue connector is for? It’s on the same part of the harness that goes to fuel rails. I can’t seem to find the other end.

Thanks, yea its a < on the fly wheel, I got it, I had a really hard time getting all the slack out of the front of the cam chain, it's a bit loose on the front still but no movement when I hand rotate the engine, I had to torque the exhaust cam over a bit with a wrench and slip the chain on the intake cam to get it tight between the cams I am also using a APE manual cam chain adjuster, OZVFR, I am following the Hanes manual for installation and punch in the cam shaft is for timing. Edit: here’s the picture of the bottom of the cam chain. The front portion looks taught here’s the picture of the bottom of the cam chain. The front portion looks tight, but the cam chain guide has a little wiggle to it when I push on it.

All, I've got a bit of an issue when I reinstall the cam holders, the way the cams oriented it pushes down against one of the buckets and rotate a little bit so that the timing punch on the cam is not aligned with the line on the cam holder how far off can the punched hole be when everything is tighten down? The first image is what is misaligned it is the exhaust cam. I suppose I could try to rotate the intake cam to be a tooth forward so that when I tighten the cam tensioner it pulls both cams into alignment because as it sits now, when I tighten the tensioner and rotate the engine, the intake will be a bit off and the exhaust will be in alignment. Both cams do not want to sit properly when the engine is aligned to install the cams. Note: I had to disassemble everything because I dropped a 10mm socket into the engine, you live and you learn.

Here is my spreadsheet, and at the bottom are the shims I am ordering. Does this pass the common sense test?

@skipperT I am running a K&N, I usually run OEM but I had to change it and the Yamaha ones were out of stock, you are saying a K&N filters less, increases wear on the engine and causes the valves to fall out of spec sooner?

Thanks for the help all, I'll set them all to the loosest in the range as I plan on keeping the bike for a while, dazzler, I did find weird sizes like 181, 184, 198 and 199. I think it would bug me to know I have intake valves on the tight side so I'll set them loose, I got all winter in Michigan to get them right. I'll post my final measurements once I get the new shims in.

All, as far as I know I am doing the 1st valve clearance check at 24,000 miles. I am the 2nd owner of this bike and I have no previous records. My measurements are below and because this is my first time doing this I was wondering if somebody could double check my numbers. Bike is a 2015 FJ09 Spec from my Hanes manual: Exhaust .26-.30mm, Intake .11-.20mm Cyl 1. Cyl 2. Cyl 3 Exhaust Exhaust Exhaust .154++*; .22- .178-; .20- .20+;.254+ Intake Intake Intake .13; .152+ .152;.152+ .127;.127-- (.127 is the smallest feeler I have and it did not fit) *(.178 is the next size up and it was very hard to get in there) += little resistance ++ = very little resistance -= drag --= very tight It looks like all of my exhaust are tight which is what seems to be expected on the forum, across the valves is seems I would go down in shim size by .1 and .05 for cylinder 1, .1 and .1 for cyl 2 and .05 and .05 for cyl 3. It looks like shims come in .05mm increments. My question is do these sizes look correct and should I adjust my intake shims to bring them more into the middle of the range? Some people seem to leave the intakes alone if they are in spec, some like to do it now and avoid the headache next interval. Thanks for reading. Stay Slippery.