BrianG

Thank you!

I still need the numbers for the total outer cable casing length (including the elbow) and the inner cable length of the OEM cable, please.

The new bars have more sweep and some drop, rather than the rise of the OEM bars. This changes the angle of the clutch perch upward, and forward requiring a re-routing of the cable around the right side of the steering head and a different cable arch than that provided by the elbow housing at the upper end of the OEM cable . A mock-up suggests that 6" more length will do it. With a little re-routing, the current wiring, front brake line and throttle cables well accommodate the new bars.

Excellent! Thanks. Can anyone provide the total outer length and the inner cable length of the OEM cable?

While I understand that the R1 cable is somewhat longer than the OEM FJ 09 cable, I have changed my handlebars and would like a clutch cable that is substantially (maybe +6") longer than the original. Does anyone know if there is such an animal available from some other Yamaha model, or perhaps even from a different marque?

Sorry, I can't find that post you referenced.

With the right springs the "preload" adjuster only adjusts the ride height to get the sag numbers (which are correct because of the spring rate) into the correct range of the total fork travel. It is just a mis-named adjustable spring spacer.

This new-to-me 2016 FJ 09 is almost where I want it: Heated grips, larger wind screen, luggage racks, skid plate, front end beak, DIN power outlet, tail tidy, Ivan's ECU flash, Michelin Road 5 tires. Is winter almost over??

This seems to be a common and persistent area of misconception. The author of this article presents his arguement and then provides the diagram which accurately refutes his arguement. His arguement is accurate for an unloaded spring system but the second and third pictures put the lie to his assertion when considering a loaded spring system. Specifically, you can see (in the second and third drawings) that the spring itself sits at exactly the same place and amount of compression when under the 50kg load regardless of the preload applied. The only thing that is different is the location of the (top of the)internal cylinder. (which translates into ride height if that cylinder is clamped in the triple clamp). The spring in both the second and third pictures are not different in any characteristic or action since they are both compressed exactly equally by the 50 kg load.

Another couple of things to note: 1. You can easily change the ride height with the preload adjustment since that is actually all that preload adjustment affects. (unless the fork/shock is topped out, which it shoudn't be) Moving the fork in the triple clamp is only necessary when the preload adjuster doesn't give you enough range. 2. An important fork function consideration is a force called "stiction". One way to get unwanted stiction is to have the fork springs unevenly loaded. (one fork higher than the other) The easy way to be certain that this isn't happening is to pass the front axle through the fork legs without the wheel. Of course it should be a straight shot through the first fork leg and precisely home into the other. Not all fork internals are precisely matched so it is sometimes necessary to adjust the location of one fork, in the triple clamp to accomplish this precise alignment. This may leave one fork sitting a little different from the other in the triple clamp.

I had the same issue with my old VFR and my Gen 1 FZ1. Resolved both by dropping the front end. (like mentioned above).

If you want a real attention-getting horn, you will note that North American automobile horns are actually a pair, each with a different note. It's that dual note, together with a decent mechanism, that gives the classic car-horn sound. Interestingly, locomotive (train) horns have 4 notes. If you want a REALLY good horn, go to the auto-wrecker's and pick the 4 note horn set from an early 2000s Cadillac. Now THAT's a horn! If you decide to use an automobile horn set, do wire in a power relay to spare the horn button in the switch cluster.

FWIW I have been playing this suspension game for a few years and here's my method of determining spring selection for any street-going motorcycle, front and rear. Sag determines spring selection and the spring has to be right before damping can be set effectively. (leaving stiction out of this discussion) 1. Static (unloaded) sag should be 10-15% of total suspension travel. (Note: this is % not mm) 2. Rider (loaded as usually ridden) should be 25- 35% of total suspension travel. The difference between these two numbers (15-20%) reveals that the spring is correct. The lower end of these numbers will provide a stiffer ride and the higher end will provide a plusher ride. Preload is only a ride height adjustment and doesn't affect much else. If your difference between static sag and rider sag is close to 15% of total travel but the actual numbers are high or low, that is when preload is used to shift both of the numbers into the desired range. (spacers found in spring kits are for gross preload adjustment and are usually cut close to the correct length by the factory, but you can cut them if required) I have also found that setting damping is easiest like this: 1. With compression damping set very low (even as low as it will go). Set rebound somewhere less than you think it should be and ride/adjust until gentle road irregularities result in only one suspension cycle. Be careful at this stage as it will ride like a pogo stick if rebound damping is too low. (you will also have to ignore brake dive in this phase of tuning the front end) 2. When you find the best rebound setting start to add compression damping until you get the firmness of ride that you like. 3. Fine tune to your taste from this point. Placing a zip tie on the shock rod and fork tube will allow you to discover how much of the suspension you are acutally using. This can tell you of you are bottoming on sharp road irregularities or if you have the damping set far to firmly. As always YMMV

Dave has confirmed that it is his brand on the ECU. Thanks!

As stated above, I don't get it. Everything that I read says that all of the XX 09 models have electronic throttle but my 2016 FJ09 has throttle cables?? What's up??