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  1. Not even close to interfering. I'm 6'3" and the medium was the best compromise. I would have preferred a long arm to make the phone easier to reach, but it was bouncing around too much, no matter how hard I tightened the claw and the arms. The small put it too low and it didn't clear my tank bag. FWIW, I'm using the X-Grip mount.
  2. The claw, right in the middle of the bars.
  3. Indeed. That's what I ordered, and remembered the adapter cable as well. I actually went with the MX+ since I'd like to try this with my other vehicles as well (one of which is a Ford).
  4. That's strange. I don't see how the two could be related. That feature just uses your cell phone to send the message, and AFAIK, it uses its accelerometer to determine if you've been involved in an accident. Neither of those operate in the K or Ka bands, and there is certainly no laser being emitted from the device. The accelerometer is also used to switch between portrait and landscape mode, so I don't think you really disable anything. Definitely a curiosity.
  5. When you compress the spring when increasing preload, you are changing the 'sliding' scale of how the spring behaves. You don't *necessarily* lose any length of travel on the fork (though in practice, you certainly might). But by preloading the spring, you are loading it with a certain force based on the spring constant. To make that spring compress any further requires more force than it would if it were not preloaded, thereby making the entire suspension feel stiffer, as the smaller bumps are felt more easily. tldr; No, preloading a spring doesn't necessarily reduce the physical shock travel. What it does is reduce the shock's USEFUL travel.
  6. Man, ya'll are killing me. As if I haven't already spent enough on this bike in the past two weeks....::sigh:: fine... https://amazo......
  7. It's been pretty well sorted that the Niken was only the first step of what WILL be someday. It has shown lots of promise despite its shortcomings. I'm not surprised at all that Yamaha is continuing their research. But can I just say that concept drawing is about the most butt-ugly thing I've ever seen in my life.
  8. It's not too small for you. I ride the same and I'm 6'3" and 275. I'm having to upgrade the stock suspension because of my weight, and you'll likely need to run a fair amount of preload in the front and rear yourself, but it'll get you by OK. If you can, be sure to ride it for yourself before committing.
  9. You are mostly correct. Both caps adjust preload, right cap adjusts rebound, left adjusts compression, but both forks have rebound and compression damping. I'm guessing that the respective "uncontrolled" dampening is of a lighter force. I don't know exactly. Might be black magic.
  10. Roger that. That's quite reassuring. I can tell you from experience that removing the fuel tank on the Gold Wing is NOT a 30 minute job. I think the first time I did it, it took me the better part of a weekend.
  11. The one main difference that the AK-20s have over the stock damper rod is that they have a rebound piston and compression piston in each fork.
  12. Not to hijack's johnmark101's thread, but since he and I are basically doing the same service around the same time, I felt it would apply. The service manual for the Tracer GT calls for having to remove the fuel tank in order to swap out the rear shock. Although I've never done it, that doesn't sound like something that can be done in two hours. Am I misreading something, or is it really that quick?
  13. The only difference you'll find in the turn signals is between different regions. In the US market, front turn signals use a third wire as a daytime running lamp. In Europe, it's a 2-wire setup. AFAIK, all rear turn signals are a 2-wire setup. You can install whatever turn signals you like. The only thing you might have to watch for is the mounting gear. I installed the 12oClockLabs advanced programmable turn signals, which use a standard 8mm mounting hole. So I had to add a small adapter to convert it to the stock Yamaha 'egg' shaped cutouts. Also be aware that if you move to LED signals, you'll need to take into account either a resistor pack or a replacement of the turn signal relay, so as not to throw off the signal timing. I went the relay path, since it's inexpensive, and about a 30 second job to replace.