SKYFLIX

I find both companies build quality about equal, at least based on the models that I've owned. My Tracer compares pretty equally to my former Africa Twin. And my Gold Wing compares pretty favorably to my former FJR. In fact, my Suzuki Burgman was pretty darn close as well, though that's a different animal (RIP. You will be missed).

The mini-USB port on the Zumo will not reliably hold a cable while the bike is in motion, and you'll lose the water and dust protection by having the rubber flap open. I would not recommend doing this.

Nothing observed here, and I've had mine installed for over a year, though I used the soundbomb mount instead of the factory one. Remember that the whole assembly moves as a single unit. There is little opportunity, outside of vibrations, for the components to interact with one another.

Surefire EP4. I love how easy they are to insert, and they block out just the right frequencies to make riding more pleasant while still allowing you to hear the important things. Oh, and they work with Comms, and they can be cleaned and re-used without any reduction in effectiveness. Best $15 I ever spent on my ride.

Agreed, it is the worst part on the bike. I recognized that from the day I bought it. Any lubricants that are used are only a band-aid and will never truly solve the poor engineering. It's a perfect candidate for an aftermarket replacement, but the economics of it would never allow it. Unfortunately, this is just one thing that we have to live with. Which isn't to say that an enterprising maker couldn't come up with something on their own. I just feel like the time involved with doing that couldn't possibly make it worthwhile. But I'll be more than happy to be proven wrong. Shut up and take my money if you do.

Based on my own troubleshooting with the QS, my thoughts are that it is actually normally closed. Otherwise, how can a QS enabled bike determine if the QS is faulty *after* it is enabled. A Normally Open circuit would be no different than a non-existent (or faulty) one. I have an aftermarket QS on order and I plan on testing this theory once it arrives. This switch supposedly takes less force to activate than the OEM.

@petshark, you could be absolutely right. Perhaps my shift switch is behaving exactly like everyone else's, which is to say, inconsistent. I sprayed some Deoxit on it yesterday around where the turnbuckle meets the switch and activated it firmly several times. Then, hit it with some quick bursts of strong shop air just to clear out any cobwebs that might be in it. I can say that it did seem to work much better on the ride to work this morning. But I'll also admit that it could be completely psychological.

OK, so it's definitely the switch. Because I had turned it off last night, I wanted to re-enable the QS before leaving for work this morning. It took SEVERAL attempts to re-enable it, and quite a bit of force on the shift lever before it would re-enable. There are some aftermarket switches which claim to be more reliable than OEM. I think I'll give one of those a whirl.

Yup, plenty of movement there.

I just had an epiphany to test the shift switch by attempting to deactivate it at startup. You know the routine, hold up on the shift lever for 10 seconds while turning on the bike. And you know what? It worked. The QS indicator turned off on the display, which to me would indicate that the switch is working fine. So I'm quite befuddled why I would suddenly start having this problem. I have 4k on the bike now, so I feel like I know how it used to behave, vs how it's behaving now. I need to put some more miles on it to get a better idea of where the problem is actually occurring. Will report back more tomorrow.

I can't say that I've ever thought the QS to have ever been particularly smooth. Even during rapid up-shifts, I could always feel, and hear, a brief cutout of engine throttle. And no, I'm not closing the throttle at all. When the QS was working, though, the shifter always slotted into gear without any issue. Now, the shifting is physically more difficult as if it's having trouble slotting in. I feel like if I could just find out how to activate the switch manually, I could pull it off the bike and test continuity. I suspect it's supposed to be Normally Closed, and the shifting action opens the circuit. Otherwise, I can't image how the self test even determines that a shift switch is installed in the first place.

Just checked the linkages and angles and its all still in spec. I had previously adjusted the shift pedal down and the QS still worked fine at the time. I've also verified that the gear position sensor is working correctly as well, as well as the clutch switch. The service manual states "If a problem is detected in the quick shift system, this indicator will turn off and the quick shift system will be unavailable". My QS indicator is still lit. The attached image is provided as the circuit for the shift switch and the manual directs: "If the continuity reading is incorrect, check the wiring connections and if necessary, replace the switch" Fair enough. What is the correct continuity check and how does one manipulate the shift switch? Is simple pressure on the shift rod sufficient to activate it?

I think my quickshifter on my '20 GT has bit the dust. I realize it doesn't do much, but the upshifts are no longer smooth. It does not appear to be cutting the throttle like it used to do. I hardly ever use it, but I *do* use it from time to time and I'd like to get it fixed. I'm 1 month outside of warranty (of course). Can anyone tell me what I should be looking for electrically? Does the QS break or close a circuit when it is activated? Oh, and in case anyone is curious, the QS indicator is still displayed on the screen. TIA

As soon as you fix the front, you'll immediately recognize the weakness in the rear, and vice versa. Coming from someone who, hypothetically of course, carries around 270 lbs, just plan on doing them both. This bike, as great as it is, just isn't setup for people of our size.

General engine performance problems. Once the cat gets clogged, it won't be able to breath as well, so you will experience reduced acceleration, possibly starting problems. I don't mean to tell you this to scare you. I have almost 2000 miles on my bike after the flash, and haven't had any problems yet. But that might not be the case at 20k miles. If you have to pass emissions testing in your area, then Ivan's flash (or any of them TBH) are probably not right for you. If you *don't*, then you can cut that cat out or completely replace your exhaust.