Yamajank

Shock serviceable or not?

I don’t know if it’s my weight (150) but I’ve found the stock shock on my 19 tracer gt to work very well for what I do. When not using the side cases I can have all the preload out and it sits in a good spot. Then with full side cases I can put about 3/4 in and keep it in a good spot. But from the beginning I’ve heard that the shock is not serviceable. I can’t seem to confirm this anywhere. It looks like the OEM shock costs about $750. Ohlins with remote res, $1150. I don’t mind spending extra but I don’t want to have to change out the forks if that would get things out of “balance”. I’d be happy getting my original shock serviced. It’s has the original oil and I’m getting to where I’m at two more clicks of rebound before it’s done.

I was looking at those. I’ll look a little closer. Thanks!

So I’ve been procrastinating this project because I have to take so much of the body work off to get to the lower triples. Anyway I’ve gone ahead and done the whole thing. Lower, axle, fender, calipers, stem nut. I took it out and it rides just fine. I don’t know that it’s really any different than when I put it in my knees and cranked, but I suppose it should be. I bought this new, and I’ve always thought the handlebars didn’t exactly square with the wheel. I’m not sure if it’s just an illusion caused by the dash maybe not being exactly square, or some other reference point but I thought maybe doing this little exercise would possibly straighten that out also. It didn’t. Could a fork height difference of .25mm cause the bar to track just a slight bit one way? Is it a matter of just loosening the stem nut and trying to center it carefully? I’m virtually certain the bars aren’t bent. Like I said, I’ve noticed this off kilter thing long ago.

I did yank it back while on that particular ride. But I guess I’m being a bit of a perfectionist and want it to be as straight as I can get it.

I still don’t understand what loosening the axle has to do with the alignment. Can anyone explain? It’s getting warm enough to throw a space heater in the garage and give this a try. Also some are suggesting that’s it’s only going to work if you loosen the top stem nut. Thanks

So only loosen the axle, and not the axle pinch bolts?

So you’re suggesting that’s there’s nothing wrong with the steering stem?

I misjudged the incline on a weird street that I stopped on and the bike tipped over. Very embarrassed and angry, but live and learn. Anyway the bars were “off” when I picked it up. I had my buddy hold the tire and we managed to re-align the bars but that makes me think something in there is not as tight as it should be. Or is it normal for this to happen? I have the ability and the time to dig into it this winter, but I’m hoping for some pointers as to what I might be looking for during the process. Thanks

Not yet! But I think I’m leaning that way for a track bike. I know it’s probably overkill in terms of price for a track bike, but I’m not getting any younger so… ooops, I thought you meant aprilia RS 660 😂😂

Do you mind sharing what your RS forum is?

https://www.relive.cc/view/vAOZnJEGmoO

Scenic app for creating routes. Relive app for saving and sharing.

How do you know this is the limit? Just curious

Anyone tried the Rosso 4 on the front? I have been using S22 and have a T32 on the rear. The S22 is needing to be replaced. Not sure if I should cross match brands like that but the reviews of the Rosso have me wanting to try it.