Yamajank

Shock serviceable or not?

I don’t know if it’s my weight (150) but I’ve found the stock shock on my 19 tracer gt to work very well for what I do. When not using the side cases I can have all the preload out and it sits in a good spot. Then with full side cases I can put about 3/4 in and keep it in a good spot. But from the beginning I’ve heard that the shock is not serviceable. I can’t seem to confirm this anywhere. It looks like the OEM shock costs about $750. Ohlins with remote res, $1150. I don’t mind spending extra but I don’t want to have to change out the forks if that would get things out of “balance”. I’d be happy getting my original shock serviced. It’s has the original oil and I’m getting to where I’m at two more clicks of rebound before it’s done.

I was looking at those. I’ll look a little closer. Thanks!

So I’ve been procrastinating this project because I have to take so much of the body work off to get to the lower triples. Anyway I’ve gone ahead and done the whole thing. Lower, axle, fender, calipers, stem nut. I took it out and it rides just fine. I don’t know that it’s really any different than when I put it in my knees and cranked, but I suppose it should be. I bought this new, and I’ve always thought the handlebars didn’t exactly square with the wheel. I’m not sure if it’s just an illusion caused by the dash maybe not being exactly square, or some other reference point but I thought maybe doing this little exercise would possibly straighten that out also. It didn’t. Could a fork height difference of .25mm cause the bar to track just a slight bit one way? Is it a matter of just loosening the stem nut and trying to center it carefully? I’m virtually certain the bars aren’t bent. Like I said, I’ve noticed this off kilter thing long ago.

I did yank it back while on that particular ride. But I guess I’m being a bit of a perfectionist and want it to be as straight as I can get it.

I still don’t understand what loosening the axle has to do with the alignment. Can anyone explain? It’s getting warm enough to throw a space heater in the garage and give this a try. Also some are suggesting that’s it’s only going to work if you loosen the top stem nut. Thanks

So only loosen the axle, and not the axle pinch bolts?

So you’re suggesting that’s there’s nothing wrong with the steering stem?

I misjudged the incline on a weird street that I stopped on and the bike tipped over. Very embarrassed and angry, but live and learn. Anyway the bars were “off” when I picked it up. I had my buddy hold the tire and we managed to re-align the bars but that makes me think something in there is not as tight as it should be. Or is it normal for this to happen? I have the ability and the time to dig into it this winter, but I’m hoping for some pointers as to what I might be looking for during the process. Thanks

Not yet! But I think I’m leaning that way for a track bike. I know it’s probably overkill in terms of price for a track bike, but I’m not getting any younger so… ooops, I thought you meant aprilia RS 660 😂😂

Do you mind sharing what your RS forum is?

https://www.relive.cc/view/vAOZnJEGmoO

Scenic app for creating routes. Relive app for saving and sharing.

How do you know this is the limit? Just curious

Anyone tried the Rosso 4 on the front? I have been using S22 and have a T32 on the rear. The S22 is needing to be replaced. Not sure if I should cross match brands like that but the reviews of the Rosso have me wanting to try it.

Size?

I tried one of those on the other day. I also liked the fit. I wasn’t ready to plop down $650 though. I’d be curious to know if you find it quiet.

Turns out I think the vacuum bleeder was pulling air from the bleeder. Maybe I was opening it too much? Maybe it was slightly loose. But with another set of hands we just did an old school bleed and it all worked out. I wish I would have done a back to back comparison but it’s so damn cold and wet here that I just wanted to get them on and be done with it. STG claims they won’t take them back anyway so I figured what’s the difference. It would be hard to believe that I’d prefer the stock lines. I had my buddy who is an instructor and ex racer do the ABS and he actually did a stoppy before he could find some gavel and get the front ABS to kick in. Off to the Dragon in a few weeks! Thanks everyone

I did nothing with the bleeder nipples. The one that is giving me trouble does seem kind of loose though. I'm thinking of ordering a set of speed bleeders. I did nothing over night because it was so strange that the right caliper was bleeding properly and the left one wasn't. I talked with the Spiegler people. They don't think I damaged anything in the fitting by going past 180 or moving a little back the other way. So I think it's down to crud in the caliper and maybe a bad bleeder screw.

So install went ok. Took way longer than I wanted. However, I'm getting mostly air from the left caliper using a vacuum bleeder. The right caliper is good which is really weird to me because they are basically connected it seems. The rear is good to go. I noticed in the directions for pivoting the end piece that it should only be one direction and no more than 180 deg. Well, I had to do one of those in that area because they weren't labeled and I had to flip the over fender line and I'm wondering if I damaged something internally on that line? Otherwise a knowledgable friend of mine thinks there's maybe something clogged in the bleeder screw or caliper. Thoughts?

Pivot tool yes. Thanks. I'm figuring it out by process of elimination.

I kind of disagree about Spiegler being a great company. I'm in the middle of trying to do this job (with the correct kit), but none of the lines are labeled as they claim they should be in the installation directions. There are no labels at all. Anyone have pics that might help me figure out which line is which? There's one end with a 90 deg angle on it that doesn't match up with any of the existing lines, so that's confusing also. I also got one fitting that is not the correct color, so maybe that's my clue that it's the rear ABS?

Anyone else had trouble getting the ABS to not "flush out" after the change of lines? I don't want to have to take this to my dealer. They are kind of idiots.

Is it necessary to change the pressure switch when performing this task? I'd probably go with the Spiegler lines.

I’m ignorant on these. How would one know if he needs a new CCT?