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skipperT

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  1. Yeppers. Big difference. Now imagine that same under-inflated tire while cornering or braking! There are SO MANY riders out there who never check their tire pressures. Blows my mind. -Skip
  2. I'd pretty much agree with all that- The only thing that I would add is that neither type of O2 sensor "knows" what rich or lean is - it simply sends a voltage signal to the ECM which then "knows" if the engine is running rich or lean. A narrowband O2 is capable of producing rich/lean signals - however stoich is around 0.45 Vdc, and it ranges from 0-1 Vdc while operating (Rich ranges roughly= 0.8-0.9 Vdc and lean at roughly around 0.1-0.2Vdc). These values are only visible with a scope AFAIK. -Skip
  3. @betoney Norcal covered most of it. My understanding is that a narrow band O2 operates from 0-1 Vdc which isn't as accurate as a so called wideband O2 (common in Automotive applications) which I(I think) as Norcal mentioned has a much greater range - for example I've seen AFR values on the Dyno anywhere from 9.0 (rich) to 20.0 (lean) while tuning. Not sure what voltages it operates at, I'll google it. Sounds as if it's comparable to a dynojet Autotune kit as far as the sensor goes, but it has the ability to actually Reflash the ECM as opposed to changing fuel maps in the PC-V. Neat. -Skip
  4. Meaning it’s simply a wideband sensor vs the stock Yamaha narrow band sensor? Or is it more special than that? Just curious.... -Skip
  5. Oooo valve adjust porn, I love it. Nice shots! Sorry to plant the seed, usually when I pull camshafts the ex valves always have the thicker shims. Not a big deal, if the bike runs good, then twist it! Yeah, definitely not a timely post. It's funny how the software change is bringing out posts that I've missed! -S
  6. skipperT

    Cam chain tensioner or something worse?

    In the latest video you posted, your complaint is that the idle seems a bit low when the engine first catches after restarting? before it settles in? Mine does the same thing. I think that's a characteristic of the bike. The only thing i noticed in your video is that the idle "hangs" just after you rev'ed it, anotherwords it hovers at 2500 RPM or whatever before it settles to an idle again. Is THIS the running condition you are concerned with? Or is it that when you were on the test ride, that the bike wouldn't pull under normal acceleration and that you had to feather the throttle in 6th to get it to accelerate through? I'm trying to narrow down what your complaint is... RE carbon build up: I've torn down engines with less than 10 hours of run time on them, and there was carbon all over the dome of the piston. Believe what you want, I've seen it with my own eyes. The reason I asked is due to the "learned" value in the ECM, which could theoretically cause an uneven or "hunting" idle condition because the amount of air entering the throttle bodies isn't what the ECM is expecting based on TPS and Intake Air Pressure sensor (x2) values. RE compression test: what kind of gauge are you using? can you borrow another one to confirm you readings of 70 lbs compression? Because your bike starts too easily for that low of a number IMHO. -Skip
  7. skipperT

    Cam chain tensioner or something worse?

    Pickup coil is under the RH Side cover. It will set off a code 12 if it is faulty. -Skip
  8. This is a tough one to answer for sure.. but the bike will probably tell you if you check it in 15k miles and they are all in spec, then you could have waited. Time will tell. -Skip
  9. Hey @Piotrek I was just re-reading this thread - I could be wrong, but in the above chart that you provided, I think maybe that you mixed up which shims were in what location? Meaning, you list 2.020, 2.010, 2.010 etc, above as being Factory Intake valve shims. Pretty sure those were your Exhaust shims. The Intake shims would have been 1.800, 1.810, 1.810, 1.850 etc. Just so that the data is correct and people reading this thread for the first time don't get confused. (i'm not trying to be an ass... ) -Skip T
  10. skipperT

    2019 900 GT. Hard start, extended crank?

    I’ll have to try that, NorCal. It makes no sense to me why that would make a difference, but now I’m curious. hmm... -Skip
  11. skipperT

    2019 900 GT. Hard start, extended crank?

    As others have mentioned, this bike NEEDS to be allowed to have the fuel pump cycle after key-on, BEFORE you hit the start button. If you are following that procedure and still having issues, I can give you some other things to check. You said you are an accomplished auto tech - one big difference between a YCC-T bike and a car is that the throttle bodies go through a start-up procedure when the key is switched on with the run switch in the ON position, and if you attempt a start before they have settled to their correct position it makes it harder for the engine to catch. My theory is it's just a tad lean for emissions reasons, but I haven't proved that. YCC-T supposedly eliminates the need for any kind of IAC or cold start valve, but for some reason this CP3 engine just seems a bit more finicky than some to start. Also the battery state of charge has a BIG effect. Measured dcV across the battery key-off HAS to be above 12.5. Spark plugs tend to foul easily if the bike isn't allowed to warm up properly before shutting it off as well (ie not taken for a ride). If you start it, and rev it a couple times to show your friends without riding, then they are likely fouled. Cleaning them isn't always worth it, due to accessibility. Summer gas also tends to light off with difficulty in high compression engines when they are cold. Make sure the throttle cable freeplay is correct, 2-3mm minimum as measured by grip rotation (check it isn't too tight when the handlebars are off to one side...) You haven't adjusted any of the TPS/APS values as instructed on this or another website, just out of curiosity? It could be a fuel pump going out, but I kind of doubt it. If you have a Snap-on fuel pressure kit I'm 99% positive there's an adapter in there that will work instead of the yamaha special tool. Tight valves could contribute to this as well, but your bike really doesn't have enough miles for that to be my first guess. Mellow posted one way to deal with this issue, but I'd would use it only as a last resort after repeatedly trying to start the engine and you suspect that it may be flooded. I have better luck practicing what DavidS recommended personally, just sigh "oh Yamaha, it's such a great bike except this" while turning the key off, pausing, and trying again. My 2015 does this, usually after I've just shut it down for 5 minutes (getting gas for example) and then re-starting. Post back if you have more thoughts/need more ideas. -Skip
  12. skipperT

    Throttle body sync with a manometer

    The factory never "officially" said to start by winding the airscrews half a turn, but it was suggested to me by an "oldtimer"... 8-). It was supposed to help a very slight off-idle stumble that would occur when opening the throttle. Many of the FJR's came out of the factory with the airscrews wound in tightly, allowing NO air through the bypass circuit of the TB. I can't say if it would have a similar effect on this engine, because it's YCC-T instead of the older TB setup the FJR's had... The thinking at the time (I think) was that by opening the airscrews a 1/2 turn you are raising the idle slightly and also putting the engine into a state where it has a bit more air to work with at idle for the sync when the butterflies are fully closed, so that it would be a smoother transition when they are opened and the engine gets a gulp of air. (Pure speculation on my part, I never asked him WHY it would make a difference...) IMHO richening the CO%'s at idle has a greater effect on idle, starting, and part throttle smoothness. This hack isn't available on US models to the consumer anymore, Dealer Laptop with Yamaha software required. -Skip
  13. Sometimes this happens after not running the engine for awhile because the oil drains off the friction plates in the clutch, which causes it to drag more than it should. Especially if it's been on the side stand. Get it hot and take it for a ride and see if it's still a problem. Otherwise if it doesn't free up, you'll need to remove all the plates and soak them in oil for an hour or so, then re-install. If you're pushing the bike around in the garage IN GEAR with the clutch lever pulled in and engine off and it's difficult, yes I would say that's normal behavior too. The clutch is adjusted correctly I assume? 10-15 mm freeplay measured at the lever end, wheels straight, engine cold? -Skip
  14. skipperT

    Nikken GT

    I just saw a FB post that Action Motorcycles in Victoria has a Nikken if anyone is interested. -Skip
  15. skipperT

    Throttle body sync with a manometer

    As B times 3 mentioned, you can use what you have. Regarding the initial setting trick - That one has been around for awhile on multiple models, Yamaha actually put a tech tip out specific to the 06 FJR I believe. Anyway, I've suggested it to a couple people, but no one has reported back on what kind of difference it made, if any. If you do this, make sure to wind out the white-painted air screw out 1/2 turn, and then sync to THAT cylinder as standard. Try it both ways and see if you can tell a difference at part throttle openings, idle, and/or starting. HTH, -Skip
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