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skipperT last won the day on July 13

skipperT had the most liked content!

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About skipperT

  • Birthday 01/01/1974

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  1. Another agree here. Running your chain tension a bit tight also makes the “sounds” more pronounced. I tend to run in 5th gear until 65+ (100-110+ kph) mph before getting in 6th. Helps a bit too. -Skip
  2. Make sure you don’t block the engine breather hose! i believe you want the hose that attaches to the LH side of the air box. -S
  3. Yes. But you can still install them so that the cyl head cover is blocked, and that way you can also remove the hoses and solenoid valve. -Skip
  4. Butcher - no idle “valve” that is user controlled. YCC-T systems are an ECM controlled throttle plate position, depending on rpm, engine and air temp, and atmospheric pressure. It will idle the engine as it seems necessary and goes into “closed loop” mode where it also takes O2 sensor measurements into the formula for mixture control at coolant temps greater than 140 degrees F. I have a 2015 and have experienced the same thing sporadically over the years, my bike has 49k km on it now. I don’t think a fix has been found that works 100% of the time however here are some things to verify: throttle cable freeplay 3-5mm battery condition over 12.5v DC flashed or not? Stock engine/exhaust? Mileage on bike, valves adjusted yet? fuel octane used? also always wait 2-4 seconds after key on/rh handlebar switch on before cranking. This gives the fuel pump time to pressurize the system. Sometimes I hit the start button quickly enough to “burb” the engine over, pause for a pregnant second, then crank until it starts. Seems to work for me, even when hot. Report back if you get a chance -Skip
  5. @keithu pretty sure you are right about the lack of CAN in the light circuit, but I haven’t compared a GT diagram to the urFJ diagram to confirm yay or nay. Only things Yamaha is running CAN on our bikes that I’m aware of, are ECM-ABS-Instrument Cluster. Other models may have more CAN due to the sophisticated gyros, accelerometer, traction control, etc on the R1-M, or even the automatic headlamp adjustment while cornering on newer FJR’s. Higher tech/features usually dictates these changes IME. -Skip
  6. Thanks Bigorange, that’s the one. Just re-read the thread and it gets a bit jumbled on page 3. I suspect some of the comments were deleted by whomever posted them originally. I may go back and edit mine as well as they now seem to be out of context. -Skip
  7. I’ll see if I can find it. I don’t think it was a thread by itself, more of a comment within a thread as “btw this happened to me” type of deal. The driver circuit within the ECM that triggers the headlamp control module was blown, IIRC. He had tied into the wiring to trigger driving lamps IIRC. -Skip
  8. Some of those 46 views could have been those (like myself) with older models that don’t have the new fancy display. Thus we couldn’t answer the question. In case you hadn’t considered that... -Skip
  9. If number 6 is missing on your bike, then yes that’s why everything is wobbling. The edges of the seat (where the grommets are Lh and Rh side bottom) are supported by the number 6 “tray” for lack of a better word. I’d stop into the dealer where you purchased the bike and ask them to have a look. -Skip
  10. Make sure you have 3-5mm of freeplay in your throttle tube when rotated gently before it pulls the cables. It sounds like it isn’t “snapping” closed accurately every time. -Skip
  11. Doubt it. The starter isn’t getting enough juice from the battery when you press the start button. The clicking you hear is probably the starter relay, which lives just above the battery (towards the pillon seat area, not towards the tank). It has a plastic cover over 2 8mm bolts, check those with a socket to be sure they are tight. (One goes straight to the battery so don’t bump anything metal). Check the fuse in your tender lead to be sure the tender is actually charging the battery when plugged in. Sounds to me like your battery is on its way out or weak. The “Err” appears on the dash when the FI system voltage level is too low to power it up. It could also be a loose or dirty battery terminal connection, or dirty start switch. Start with the simple stuff first. Check and clean connections, remove, charge and load test the battery. Confirm the clicking is coming from the start relay as I suggested, or let me know that’s not it and we can provide some more help -Skip
  12. Happy to help keep this great resource operating and pay it forward! -Skip
  13. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I guess - because that particular bag you linked looks ridiculous to me. Ymmv, -S