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skipperT last won the day on June 2

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About skipperT

  • Birthday 01/01/1974

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  1. I’ve had this exact issue multiple times over the last riding season and haven’t gotten around to tracking it down yet. Sensors and encoder rings are fine. do you have a Speedo healer installed? i suspect a dirty electrical connection someplace that’s intermittently losing contact. I’ll keep you posted if I find anything on my bike, but that’s where I’d start after verifying sensors and rings as suggested above. (After re-reading this, I guess that’s not a lot of help… but at least you know someone else has had the same issue. ) -Skip
  2. @redfjniner looks to be a reasonable deal, my only concern is what did the LH side of the bike look like? All pictures show the RH side of the engine, with the exception of that one shot which shows the (superficial) damage to the head bolt lower threads. I’d like to know what caused that damage. If the bolt is still torqued, no big deal. But if someone had the head off that engine and blew the threads out of the bottom because of improper installation technique (ie not clearing the oil from the threaded cavity before installing a bolt, or installing the wrong length bolt) then that would concern me. if the damage happened during motor removal or during the crash (again, no shots of the LH side of bike) then you could surely swap over the covers from your engine. Easier engine to R&R than a FJR. (Haven’t -actually pulled a CP3 but done lots of FJR’s.) you’ll need a special socket for one of the engine mount spacers. -Skip
  3. It might be worth buying (not for asking $) but the seller has no real clue how much the parts will be: (and I’m just ball-parking, no labor): LH case cover 200-250 plus oil and coolant LH lower rad hose and clamp ? water pump housing? Min 100 RH clutch “noise cover” probably 100 plus the foam that’s inside. RH outer fairing 150 minimum, plus stickers. The inner pieces are separate. Rh turn signal probably 50 brake pedal and rubber 50-100 don’t forget about the frame damage on the RH front engine mount area. Plus footrests either side and potentially that nice Akra exhaust. price is way too high IMHO seeing how much work it needs to make it clean again. But it’s your money. FB profile seems a bit shifty to me also, seeing as the dude riding the mcy is on a Road king (I think…) -Skip
  4. Could be. Sorry for the late reply. There’s been at least 2 bulletins on this subject, but they’re a bit vague on the why. All I know is that any time a slipper clutch is installed it’s extra dangerous to use an impact to loosen because of the way the blows from the impact move the components around as they are loosened, if that makes any sense. It may have more to do with the nut being staked then anything else, as at least one poster on this forum damaged the output shaft when replacing his drive sprocket. He used an impact to loosen, but may not have cleared the staked nut sufficiently before loosening… hard to say. @bwringer (didn’t forget about your question) -Skip
  5. For the most part, yes… except when they get so tight they are stuck open and will have a slight “whirling” sound at higher RPM’s. Usually that’s on a multi valve head with several tight-and-stuck-open ex valves. Smaller engines won’t even start. -Skip
  6. DO NOT use an impact wrench when removing/installing that nut IF a slipper clutch is already installed. YOU WILL destroy the input shaft to the transmission and have to split the cases to repair. (Hope that saves someone a big headache) -Skip
  7. If you noticed a puff of air from the crankcase, then some of the compression pressure is escaping past the rings and blowing back into the crankcase. This suggests improper sealing, caused by too big piston to cyl clearance an/or faulty rings Ring end gap should have been checked and adjusted if necessary. Cyl should always be cleaned before assy (right out of the box they usually still have machining oil and grit left over which will ruin a new set of rings). Rings rotate as the piston goes up and down, so I wouldn’t be as concerned with the indexing of the gaps (usually 120 degrees apart) as I would that the rings are installed correctly (markings facing up, compression and second ring in the correct spot, expander and oil rings installed correctly. ) To diagnose this correctly, measure the piston and cyl, calculate the clearance, and also install the rings into the cyl and measure the end gap. Make sure the piston was installed correctly so that the arrow or marking faces the exhaust side. I hate to say it, but once you tear it back apart you will probably find something that will need to be replaced, and then re-installed correctly for proper running. -Skip
  8. Great to hear, @bwringer. I replaced mine back when the bike was a year old to try and quiet down the “whine” which was always quite loud at start-up and then would become reduced as the idle speed came down. Glad it fixed your “gronk” issue, I’ve often wondered why Yamaha didn’t use a more conventional primary drive gear design with springs on the back of the basket. Mystery. What was that updated p/n that you used? -skip
  9. Good question. I don’t know the answer, but I suspect not. TWDW or someone familiar with the code inside and/for flashing ecm’s may know. -S
  10. The new OBD motorcycle “standard” is actually a red 6 pin connector that looks like this: The 4P white Yamaha connector allows a person with the Yamaha Diagnostic Software to connect to the bike. as Wintersdark mentioned, the ECM has to have programming in it that allows it to recognize an OBD II device. 2015-2016 models do not. And on that note, only certain functions are available via the YDT (for 15-16’s) it’s not a conspiracy against you, 2and3, I promise… 😉 -Skip
  11. Correct. 2015-2016 still have DIAG mode which is much easier to just access via the instrument cluster. OBD II readers won’t work. -Skip
  12. 20 V -AC is LOW for a stator output. was that measured at 5k RPM? DC measurements from a stator are irrelevant. cheap batteries leave you stranded, IMHO. You get what you pay for… (many people here will disagree with that statement). Do what you will. .2-.5ohms of resistance is fine. This test doesn’t have to be spot-on resistance wise, it’s simply to see if the windings are intact. the short-to-ground test measurement on each stator wire to battery ground should be infinity/or OL depending on your VOM. The test is very important! If your stator output tests are perfect and high but you have a short to ground, then your charging won’t be adequate. ground wires should always be verified to be tight and clean as well. the FJ/MT have a smaller ground connector that needs to be connected just down from the battery negative connection I’m adding these notes here for anyone who comes across this thread down the road. Howie’s testing was incomplete. However a battery replacement is still a wise call at this point. Let us know how you make out, -Skip
  13. Your battery sounds weak. Remember that the charging system output tests should be measured with a fully charged, healthy battery in order to get the spec you read in the book, but didn’t see on your particular bike. These bikes are battery sensitive, meaning 12.5 isn’t enough to get a reliable start. Another test is to turn the key on, and let it stay on for 30 seconds, and THEN measure the voltage at the battery terminals (engine off). It should be above 12 volts, usually 12.2-12.4 or so. less? Battery is discharged or on its way out. reg/rec is mounted under subframe, IIRC. the other stator tests most people miss, are short to ground on each of the 3 stator wires, and an AC Voltage output test across each of the 3 legs at 5k RPM. -Skip
  14. The nut is staked in 2 places to the driveshaft. Make sure you knock those away from the shaft before loosening. the nut should also be replaced, but you can usually get away with at least 1 R&R. heat works better at loosening loctite than pb blaster. have a helper hold the rear brake instead of relying on being in gear. hope these tips help next time. -Skip