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About skipperT

  • Birthday 01/01/1974

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  1. Only Yamaha knows why the p/n changed. You can’t assume anything about the reliability of these bikes based on year of manufacture or VIN. Now that is out of the way, the most likely reason for head change was the addition of an oil passage to feed the cam chain tensioner. Older bikes got a different cam chanson tensioner kit as part of an update bulletin than newer bikes. All years work fine. Don’t worry about the valves. Plan on the checking the clearances a bit earlier than recommended, somewhere after 20k miles. If they’re tight, loosen them up and keep riding. It’s a Yamaha. Very little goes wrong. -Skip
  2. Oil level is always set without springs, fork reassembled, and collapsed. -Skip
  3. Nik- that’s actually a great find. I’m sure it will run great. Don’t beat yourself up too badly, this engine is VERY easy to jump a tooth when installing and timing the camshafts. Fingers crossed... -Skip
  4. "Not I, said the cat." I'm doubtful it would work without a good amount of speed. The FI system requires a minimum amount of current to operate, along with the fuel pump. -Skip
  5. Nice write up, Piotrek. Did you replace the rear shock as well? -Skip
  6. The easiest way to test the AIS is to block the hoses where they enter the cyl head cover, or block the vacuum line leading to the operating solenoid from the throttle body port. It might be possible to install the reeds themselves backwards in the cyl head cover, but IIRC they are "keyed" and can only go in one way. (I may also be mixing up manufacturer design, if so apologies) I'm still wondering about a bad or restricted fuel pump. -Skip
  7. Any “trickle charge” battery tender type charger that maintains the battery by charging at around 0.8- <2 Amps will prolong the life of your battery. These will usually have an auto shutoff feature so you can plug it in and forget it. The brandnames I’d recommend are Optimate, tech mate, or a Battery tender brand. -Skip
  8. Sure. If it’s all good now, but wasn’t before then a bad connection somewhere is most likely. Water really shouldn’t affect anything that easily as I’ve ridden mine through downpours with no problems. All you can really do at this point is to remove fairings and check all the connections at the signals. Trace the turn signal housing wires along the bars to see where they disappear into a bundle of plugs and make sure it’s secure. Verify the turn signal switch is properly located on the bars and snug. One time I did find a plug from a switch housing that wasn’t “clicked” into place by the factory and it was causing some weird electrical issues (not on an FJ/MT though). Water inside the switch housing could also cause your symptoms. Good luck. -Skip
  9. What had you taken apart or modified most recently in the bike? -Skip
  10. You asked: Is my math correct or does it need tweaks? My counter question is: Did you MEASURE the clearance with the new shim and that is the value listed in the "result" column? Or are you guessing and hoping that's where it will wind up? In which case: you will probably not be happy with the MEASURED result after you install those shims. Some will probably be ok, but others may be too far out of spec, and you may need to pull the cams again and re-adjust. But I sincerely wish you luck and hope it works out. In my experience, valve lash adjustments are sometimes a crapshoot even when measured and calculated correctly. you aren't going to get them to that theoretical perfect clearance and you'll need to adjust your expectations accordingly. -Skip
  11. Yes, leaded fuels will damage the cat. The main reason Yamaha recommends high octane fuel is due to the high compression engine design. It's safer to run higher octane fuel with advanced timing settings. These engines don't use knock sensors like a car, and for the most part by the time you hear audible pinging while riding, it's doing damage. This engine design also doesn't like to be lugged around in top gear at less than 3,000 RPM. It's not a V-twin cruiser, it's an inline sportbike motor - let her sing! The other reason for running good quality, 91 octane fuel is that it burns cleaner and doesn't build up carbon deposits like low octane poor quality gas does. YMMV. I personally don't think it's worth saving 40-80 cents per fill up. In the grand scheme of things that's nothing. -Skip
  12. Sorry it's been such a pain. My only other thought is a weak fuel pump, but you can't test fuel pressure without the right Diag. equipment. Good luck and hope you have a positive service experience. -Skip
  13. You guys are fortunate. I guess it depends on how "low" the battery actually was - deeply discharged below 11v and possibly damaged cannot be recovered via a stator. -Skip
  14. Not trying to be a pill, but NO motorcycle made in the last several decades has an alternator except for the Honda GL1800. Powersports vehicles use a (usually) wet stator for creating electrical AC voltage. A regulator/rectifier rectifies the AC V to DC V so that the bike/battery etc can use it. The reason this is important for people to wrap their heads around, is that a car's alternator will recharge a low battery (in a case where you left your headlights on for example), where a stator is ONLY powerful enough to keep a healthy battery CHARGED. IT CANNOT recharge a discharged (below 12.0v) battery. You need to attach a charger for that job. Hence why it common for powersports batteries that aren't maintained to get discharged to the point where they are damaged or unrecoverable. Requiring consumers to replace lots of batteries. Battery tenders are your friend. -Skip