Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


skipperT last won the day on July 13 2019

skipperT had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

808 Excellent

About skipperT

  • Birthday 01/01/1974

Recent Profile Visitors

211 profile views
  1. Neither. you need a C —P— R9EIA-9 plug, if you can find one. -Skip
  2. Not really that bad. That’s 1 in 10 based on a survey of 4424 owners, whereas H-D and BMW were 3 out of 10 in the same sample size. it also doesn’t break down which bikes had the issues - for example “Our Beloved Brand” probably sells more small cc bikes which are more cheaply made in other countries, rather than Japan made bikes such as our FJ/MT’s. Honda also sells millions more bike worldwide than Yamaha does. google takes you to some interesting stats and articles - breaking the numbers down worldwide vs US also. Skip
  3. If what you’re typing here, is exactly what you did - then you didn’t follow my instructions. You also can’t test a battery immediately after removing a battery charger. The voltage has to “stabilize” before testing. -Skip
  4. Low. The FJ starts best around when it has 12.7-12.9v to play with. here’s another test: turn on your key and let the bike sit powered-on for about 30 seconds. Measure your battery voltage with key still on. Less than 12.1-12.2? Dipping well below 12v? 11.8 or less? Your battery is toast. -Skip
  5. Most manufacturers specify charging tests at 5000 rpm. That’s not far in the FJ’s rpm range but there you go. you need to run an extension cord and charge it properly overnight somehow. The bike WILL NOT charge a weak battery, it will only keep a regularly used and charged battery topped off. -Skip
  6. It’s a tad low. Top it off to 3/4 up the window and worry no more. WRT oil level check holding Bike level with both wheels on the ground vs center stand - depending on the model, some bikes will be a bit higher using one method vs the other. For example, if you fill an FJR on the center stand, and then check it once on the ground - one method will usually indicate a slightly higher level than the other. WRT consumption - mine drops from 3/4 of the way up the window, to the lower 1/4 of the window in a couple thousand miles (probably 1-200cc tops). Normal. -Skip
  7. Definitely a possibility. I just replaced mine when I found a small patch of brass showing through the Teflon material. the other possibility I’ve read about is the springs and spacers knocking into the outer fork tube. Someone solved that issue with some Orings. -Skip
  8. Power Visions are sweet, and allow a ton of flexibility when tuning. They can also report and clear trouble codes on some models. as Bugie posted, the posi-tap connection is for the TPS. Make SURE that you don’t wire into the APS wiring by mistake! They are both TPS sensors, but have different colored connectors, are in 2 different locations and perform different functions. I’ve got a PC-V and they’re not terribly hard to install. As a heads up, the wide band o2 sensor included with the auto tune module is a larger thread than the standard o2 on the stock pipe. Some aftermarket pipes have the correct bung already welded on, or there’s a usually one included with the auto tune module that you can weld on to the exhaust of your choice. HTH, Skip
  9. Sounds like the start solenoid/relay assy is sticking. Glad your dealer is stepping up. -Skip
  10. 101 is actually the barometric pressure value as read by the sensor. If you crank the engine while viewing that number, it will change as the intake/exhaust valves open and close and the piston goes through it's stroke. You may be confused as to what you are looking at: when in DIAG mode you use a different chart which explains what all the channel numbers are, and what the values mean. The chart I posted is a Fault code list, and the number will appear in the display when the key is switched on/engine not started, or depending on the fault - will appear after attempting to start the engine. Post back if you need more hep. -Skip
  11. Great suggestion @BBB. Now that the inner workings of the abs unit have been activated, some air may have been pushed into the lines where it can easily be bled out the main 3 calipers. the service manual details a way to pull codes @betoney - but I wouldn’t worry about that yet unless you’re curious. They can be read and cleared similar to being in DIAG mode once the abs coupler has been jumped IIRC. Full bleed and another test ride should fix it. Keep us posted, -Skip
  12. Shares the same plug as the fuel pump. 99% certain that the pump and sending unit for the gauge are the same part and you would have to replace the Fuel pump assembly. I’d follow the procedure in the manual for testing, which for accuracy will involve draining the tank and removing the pump, which means you should be prepared to replace the gasket as well. the other causes would be 1- too much resistance in the wiring or at the plug. Clean the connections and check connector for the plug closely. or 2- the sending unit is sticking, due to it being restricted somehow or damaged or contaminated with some sticky fuel residue. Finally 3 - problem with the Instrument cluster or ECM or wiring in between. going off memory here, so check the service manual. -Skip
  13. skipperT

    Rain x

    Interesting - they claim “no swirl marks “, are you finding that to be the case? -Skip
  14. @dazzler24 fairly certain you can shine a flashlight through the left hand side and view it without pulling any panels. -Skip