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skipperT

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skipperT last won the day on July 13 2019

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About skipperT

  • Birthday 01/01/1974

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  1. Hey John- zero experience with a Magura conversion. just so you’re aware, I believe it changes the stock set up to a Hydraulic slave and master cylinder setup(?) You have a 15? Upgrade the cable first if you haven’t replaced that already. Secondly, I’m fairly certain that the stock clutch pack can be adjusted with a thicker or thinner clutch plate (1.4-2.1mm or so) to change the stack height. This will move the release point slightly, but may allow you to get it a tiny bit further from the end if you’ve got lots of miles/kms on your bike, you could also upgrade to the slipper clutch that the 17 and later models have - it has a lighter feel that’s easier on the hand. -Skip
  2. The alternate procedure is to wind all 3 screws in gently until they are seated. Look at your sync gauge, and whichever number TB is pulling the most vacuum is your new standard. Wind out the other 2 screws to lower the vacuum until they are all equal. yamaha doesn’t always print this in every service manual, but’s it’s been used since the R6 came out back in 06 IIRC? I think that was the first model where Yamaha started using paint marks on the throttle bodies to designate a “standard”. -Skip
  3. To anyone reading this, the ECM is NOT “calibrated” to the white paint marked throttle body. The standard TB adjustment screw is simply marked by the factory as a reference point because during manufacturing and initial setup, that’s the throttle butterfly that was measured to be the one that will allow the highest measurable amount of vacuum through the throttle plates at idle. Thus, this is the “standard” that you raise the vacuum level of the other 2 cylinders to match. ...except when it’s not. There are some bikes out there that you can not sync properly using the painted TB as standard and then there’s an alternate procedure for dialing in the sync. Just so people are aware. nice write up, Winter. -Skip
  4. You do, but it’s not a huge deal - there’s a bracket on the LH upper radiator mount which secured the cable more tightly toward the frame. -Skip
  5. You can still adjust the TPS/APS settings, but need Yamaha diagnostic software to see the values which would otherwise be visible on the instrument cluster of 15 and 16 models. Some OBD-II readers might be able to display them as well? (Haven’t tested that). -Skip
  6. John- do you have aftermarket levers or anything else installed on the bars? How about the grips? Have the wheels been off since you purchased the bike? -Skip
  7. Also check chain tension: a tight spot In the chain or incorrect tension can also cause this feeling of “uneasiness” when holding a lower speed. throttle body sync may be a bit off as well, but the engine should break-in a bit more IMHO before having it adjusted. As others have pointed out, it could also be an unfortunate byproduct of an engine tuned to meet emissions standards. But there’s a few things you can check. -Skip
  8. Yes. NGK CPR9EA-9 if memory serves. they really don’t need to be replaced every 8k mikes either - could probably go 12-16k miles before replacing under normal operating conditions unless a running condition crops up. -S
  9. They were failing under certain operating conditions, which for whatever reason were A-mode above 7k. We can only “armchair DIAG” this situation as it’s very difficult to observe the firing voltages under those types of conditions - but an Ignition mate or a scope set up while riding and having the problem occur would probably provide some data. The shorter reach of the plug may have had something to do with it, or the tip or porcelain may be worn in such a way that is invisible to the naked eye but still affects the spark condition. Or as I mentioned before, A-mode may also have a bit more timing advance and that’s why it puts the ignition system under pressure and why the issue cropped up.... combustion temperatures also affect wear of the plug material and the ability of the spark plug to remain clean. Maybe it causes premature wear of the iridium plug materials? Maybe NGK had a bad batch of Iridium plugs? Who knows. in summary, Yamaha recommends traditional spark plugs on US models for a reason. In countries where it doesn’t spec that plug, we really don’t know enough about the other inner workings of the bike or the ECM to say they didn’t make another change somewhere (different coil, less advance, gasoline quality of the country, etc) to allow the same model to run an iridium plug. As Piotrek’s pictures show, they are clearly NOT the same plug. -Skip
  10. Any idea if the tech at the shop took the bike for a ride before performing tests, etc? you need to bring it back when it’s symptomatic and ask the same guy to ride it again. Then he will see that there’s something going on. explain that it was all fixed for a period of time and then became a problem again. Tell them how long approx it took to develop the problem again so they can duplicate the issue. -Skip
  11. I usually perform the sync at the same time, so I go through the top. Dropping the radiator is a fast way too, and then you don’t need to pull the tank. I find it easier to yank the PAIR hoses and disconnect the valve and move it out of the way, rather than fight the limited access. That easier from the top. To each their own, right? There’s an expression/rule that I always keep in the back of my mind when troubleshooting electrical: -70% of the time it’s a connection, 30% of the time it’s the component. -skip
  12. So glad your problem is fixed, Piotrek! Woo hoo, redline again! -Skip
  13. Did you take the bike for a test ride? do that, shut the bike off, then plug in and clear the stored code again. Cycle key a second time, and take a second test ride. Let us know what happens after you try the above steps. -Skip
  14. If you hold the button in for 2-3 seconds, it will bring up the menu in the instrument cluster. engine can be running, but bike has to be in neutral and not moving (I’ve accessed it at a traffic light, for example. The owners manual goes into more depth. -Skip
  15. P2158 is definitely for the Front Speed sensor. Remove it from the housing and check for debris on the tip. Next, check that the bracket that the sensor mounts to isn’t tweaked. Often it will become out of square with the sensor due to someone not inserting it properly into the housing (use a gentle twisting motion while pushing it in) and then tightening down the bolt, which then bends the mount. Also make sure the encoder wheel doesn’t have any debris in the teeth, that a rock didn’t bend a “tooth” and that the axle is inserted and secured to the fork leg correctly, and that the mount for the sensor is around the “pin” on the Rh fork tube. -Skip
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