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skipperT last won the day on March 7

skipperT had the most liked content!

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About skipperT

  • Birthday 01/01/1974

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  1. Ah ok. I misread your question. Unfortunately I don’t think there’s a way to change degrees F to C, my bike is the same (can set Km and l/100 miles or whatever for fuel use) but will still read in degrees F. -Skip
  2. Most of the Honda systems work the same way, with the exception of the linked ABS system on newer CBR1000RR (which has an ABS ECM controlling 2 separate ABS pumps!) Meaning foot brake application also applies a selected piston(s) in the front caliper(s). So to answer your question @Jfundo usually the design is the foot applies some portion of the front, but the front application DOES NOT apply anything to the rear. So the front system remains “independent” so to speak, but does have fluid supply running from the rear which makes them more time consuming to bleed correctly. Honda has used it on various models over the years. (Goldwings are a “case study” by themselves!) Yamaha has really only used it on the FJR13. I don’t know if the newer Venture cruisers use it... -Skip
  3. Mines a US model as well and going into the Menu screen will show an option for Units. Select that and changes from Miles to KM’s. -Skip
  4. Where are you from? What year is your bike? this results from this option seem to vary based on what market the bike is produced. -Skip
  5. They’re main harness wiring splices. Neat to see how they’re all twisted and woven together through the clear cover. Yamaha changed the construction of the splices after the FJR ground wire/ign switch recalls.(at least I think that’s why they’ve been changed). The “cap” style with a multi pronged male connector that joined 6 or 8 or 10 or 12 female connectors together as one was prone to corrosion. -Skip
  6. (Blushing) Hey @dazzler24, glad everything worked out! it was interesting to read all 14 pages of that thread on the FZ forum. Guess you don’t really NEED to pull the valve cover after all as long as the screwdriver holds... I learned a couple tricks from that post too, anyway thanks for sharing -Skip
  7. Sure. Yes. The reason this mark is used is that there is the LEAST amount of pressure placed on the valves by the cam lobes in this position, which is why the factory says to pull and install cams in this position only. The chances of breaking a cam by improper loosening/tightening/installation is greatly reduced. Don't be too frightened... based on your replies I'd say you've done everything correctly. If you rotated the engine by hand and didn't observe much change in the tension of the chain then I would say it's probably close. The only thing you didn't do is a visual check at the valve cover to confirm timing marks and/or chain tension from that angle. One final way to confirm would be to have someone else rotate the engine by hand slowly while you attempted to increase the manual tensioner's force on the chain. If you go 2 crank rotations (which equals one rotation of the cams) without changing the adjustment then I'd say that's pretty much the most you can do before starting it up. My guess is that you'll know if it's out of time when it starts, because you recently listened to it running perfectly before swapping the tensioner out. I'm a bit nuts I think, because I perform what I just suggested to you above - even when installing the Yamaha stock tensioners - because their instructions say to wind in the special tool clockwise until resistance is felt, and then go an additional 1/8 turn (IIRC). However, when I do that I still find that there is a bit of slop in the chain tension depending on the position of the lobes and whether the cam is trying to rotate forward to the next position, or being not quite pulled along by the exhaust camshaft or in the case of the EX cam being pulled along toward the crank gear. It's difficult to type out in words, but at some point I'll take a short video of what I'm referring to... hopefully what I've written here makes sense. -Skip
  8. The zip tie down below really isn’t doing anything, hate to break it to you. These engines typically will jump time and skip teeth on the camshaft sprockets, not the crank side. Which timing mark did you use? There are 2, and the line is NOT the correct one. You are looking for a sideways V in the window: so it will look like this through the timing inspection hole. “<“ (but rotated just slightly ccw so that the lower line of the < is parallel with horizon if that makes sense. ) In my experience the cam chain tension changes as the engine is rotated. So sure, you can hit that start button and adjust as The engine is running but the tension will be loose in certain places and because it’s a manual tensioner I think you could easily skip out of time on the cam sprockets. What do the instructions say? If it were me I’d pull the valve cover and rotate the engine by hand in the proper direction while watching the tension between the cams and also the tension as it leaves the crank sprocket and travels toward the intake cam sprocket. At some point while you are rotating the engine manually you will find a spot where the chain tension loosens up. Snug up the manual tensioner at that point and continue rotating the engine while double checking and watching the chain. You will see what I mean after performing this procedure. then put it back together and fire it up. Adjust final tension at that point while running. yes this is a longer procedure but it’s safer. YMMV, skip
  9. I have a pretty nice tire pressure gauge I used before going for a ride today. Don’t remember how much it cost but had it for years. Even says “Dunlop” on it. 😜 -Skip
  10. Ok. Then based on the video above and your description of the symptoms i would focus on the clutch. I can’t ride your bike in person but that video clearly shows the RPM and engine sound all of sudden “settle” as you accelerate. Anotherwords the engagement of the clutch instead of being smooth as you disengage clutch lever and apply throttle when accelerating - seems to happen very abruptly. If this is the case I’d take it apart and inspect for damage to the ramps of the slipper mechanism (if equipped) and grooving in the primary gear and basket. The springs could also be weak and not be allowing a smooth engagement. Also check the needle bearings and shaft where it enters the clutch cover for binding. If you decide to tackle this yourself remember that I’m just some wacko on the internet providing you my opinion and free advice. If you disassemble the clutch yourself remember that you can damage the transmission shaft if you improperly remove the staked nut (27 or 30mm socket) with an impact wrench (that retains the primary gear). You can remove pressure plate and clutch plates for inspection without taking the nut off. If you take it in for diagnosis I would demonstrate the problem for a tech before dropping it off so they know what to concentrate on. if you feel that the engagement of the engine when applying throttle and releasing the clutch happens smooth and normally- and that instead what happens is that the engine stumbles and catches, focus on a fueling issue, vacuum leak, bad gas, etc. one final drivetrain check would be to confirm rear axle tightness and also to grab the rear sprocket and chain with your hands and attempt to rotate the rear wheel back and forth. If there is excessive movement then you have worn or damaged rubber absorbers between the rear sprocket and rear wheel. Confirm the nut retaining the front sprocket is still tight and staked to the drive shaft. good luck and keep us posted. Skip
  11. So when the rpm dropped in the video above, where was the clutch lever? What about the throttle position? -Skip
  12. Definitely not ignition coil packs, those usually would fail under higher loads and taking off from a stop at lower RPM I don’t think qualifies. Plus, the bike runs ok after warming up. I’m with Betoney on this one: what happens if you let the bike idle for several minutes while putting on your gear? Another thing that’s comes to mind is a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Starts and runs but takes a bit for the system to build fuel pressure because it’s bleeding off once the engine is off for awhile. It’s easy to check fuel pressure while running and after sitting for 5-10 minutes(or longer) or so. a wonky TPS sensor could cause this and not throw codes. So could wear in the clutch or clutch cable. Something in the emissions system (pinched line or breather). Tight valve clearances and TB sync being out. You’ve got lots of possibilities. Best bet may be to demonstrate the symptom to a tech/dealership so they know what they are trying to troubleshoot. -Skip
  13. The FJR switch connects up in the front cowl, runs toward the LH side, under a removable panel once the windshield is off. Did you get your transmissions shafts replaced yet? -Skip
  14. Check engine light on? Did you check for codes? Is the fuel fresh? Does the engine actually stall or just lose power momentarily before you can then sort of “accelerate through it?” Does it change once warmed up or happen all the time? Did this start happening one day and then go away, or is reproducible every time? does the TCS light flash? Does the ABS light stay on? Are your wheels spinning freely or are the brakes dragging? sorry for all the questions but need more info. -Skip
  15. Which one would you say is quieter? I own a Shoei and an HJC and really think that the Shoei deals better with the wind noise. -Skip