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skipperT

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skipperT last won the day on July 13

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About skipperT

  • Birthday 01/01/1974

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  1. How did you check for spark? I ask because it’s not exactly self-explanatory and easy on an engine with stick coil packs so I’d like to know if you’ve checked accurately for spark presence... Check the simple stuff first: fuel pump connected and runs when key is turned on and switch is in the run position, check the ignition/FI fuses which are located in another fuse box (IIRC) up front, which will require pulling the fairing plastics off. You may have blown more than the main 50a fuse... Was anything else apart recently on the bike before the no start occurred? -Skip
  2. No, it shouldn’t have. If the only things that you plugged into/cut connectors/wired into are the 2 rear turn signals, tail light, and license plate light wiring - then you shouldn’t have an issue. I’m also assuming that the wires are run correctly, not touching each other creating a short if a strand were to be exposed, etc. if for some reason you pulled power/ground out of the white 4 pin connector that should be covered with a black plug, then that’s your problem. It is a diagnostic connector for connecting to the Yamaha software. You CAN clear the code yourself. But as I mentioned, if it’s still ACTIVE and hasn’t been “repaired”, then you will not be able to clear it. The only fuse I’m concerned with is the one labeled ETV in this picture, which is a 7.5a fuse. That’s for the YCC-T (fly by wire) system and will cause a code 60 if blown. To rule out your recent work, disconnect everything you just installed and take it out of the equation. See if the bike will start, or if not - if the code 60 still appears. If no change is seen then it’s probably not related to your installs. Make sure the battery is well charged. All of this install work, plus attempting to start the bike - has probably run your battery down a bit. Make sure it’s got a minimum of 12.6-12.7 dcV measured across the battery terminals key off (Ideally 12.8 or better). -Skip
  3. Sounds to me like you’ve already convinced yourself that the CP3 engine is unreliable and prone to issues. I’m not going to waste a bunch of time trying to convince you otherwise. However i will point out that it’s called “ maintenance ”. All motorcycles require it and many engines need valve adjustments after a period of time and not just the CP3 motors. Many bikes produced today are consumer versions of motorcycle race engines, very high performance machines, and they need a bit of love to perform at their best. They’re not like a car that you can pretty much ignore until the oil light comes on and the tires fall off. Check the valves every 20-25k miles, and don’t worry about it. good luck with your decision. -Skip
  4. There’s info in this area, or search for Diag. You can view codes on channel 60, they get cleared in channel 61 by cycling the off/run switch (rh switch, NOT the key) from on, to off. The number displayed in channel 61 is how many different code occurrences you have that have been “repaired”. Channel 60 is the fault code number(s). you won’t be able to clear the code until you’ve fixed the problem! Meaning the count in channel 61 may not change from 1 to 0 when you cycle the switch. If that’s the case, a code is still active. This info is also in the service manual. -Skip
  5. DavidS - what year is your bike? If it’s a 17 or later than you’ll need a dealer to clear the code, or an OBDII reader with the appropriate adapter. If it’s first Gen (15-16) then you can clear it once you have replaced the blown ETV 7.5 amp fuse located in the box near the battery and have successfully started the bike and moved the throttle to make sure the bike is accepting throttle input. Make sure the battery isn’t hooked up backwards. -Skip
  6. I actually had to push-start mine a few weeks ago (don’t ask) right after I stopped for gas. Battery was too weak to get it fired back up again, so I rolled it along for a bit and popped it in 2nd gear and it fired right up. The battery wasn’t totally dead though, just weak enough to buzz the start solenoid when attempting to crank the engine. -Skip
  7. As NorCal mentioned, double check the things you may have touched or bumped when the sync was performed. Also depending on how the caps covering the throttle body ports were removed, one of the rubber nipple doo-dads could be torn depending on how you removed them (pliers can be brutal). Or if those weren’t removed, perhaps a line is open, maybe leading to the IAP sensor. The crankcase breather line being kinked or not connected properly could cause some weird things too. Same with a twisted fuel line, or one of the tank drain lines that hook into the bottom of the fuel tank. If those vents are kinked and blocked it can cause the fuel pump to have difficulty providing the correct pressure into the fuel rail. a loose o2 sensor in that exhaust could also cause it, as Koth442 mentioned. Another poster had a bad weld seam on his Yosh pipe which can introduce air into the system where the ECM doesn’t expect it. Ultimately causing a running problem. I’d pull it apart and double check all of these things. You really shouldn’t need to idle the engine longer than 30 seconds before riding away without any drama. Good luck, and keep us posted. I’d backburner the “bad flash” idea for now until you 100% know the rest of the bike is ok. -Skip
  8. How many miles? Maintenance history? Decel pop can be a couple things: exhaust gaskets/leaks, intake leak, or too much or too little fuel when the throttle is closed. I think you may have 2 different things going on that may or may not be related. If the bike ran fine initially after the exhaust and flash were installed, and now doesn’t - then it’s likely not related. If you’ve moved to a lower elevation and had it flashed for your old elevation, then a reflash would make sense as the baro pressure sensor can only adjust the fueling by so much depending on elevation. -Skip
  9. Ditto me, purchased in Feb of 2015. No other bikes since -Skip
  10. Yes the dealer can order them, or some shops will sell them to you out of their shop supplies or whatever. You’ll need to know what sizes you need of course. You can also order a kit for yourself, or swap with a buddy. Lots of options. -Skip
  11. Order and install a Speedo Healer. -Skip
  12. The check engine light is probably on b/c of a low/high voltage condition, not because you burnt a fuse. These models have a trouble code for that... i hope you didn’t jump it from a RUNNING vehicle? That can create all kinds of problems. Get yourself some kind of battery tender/optimate charger with a pig tail and attempt to charge it overnight. Don’t use a fast charge/high amp auto device. If it doesn’t take , yeah you’ll need a new battery. And as you’ve discovered, bikes won’t recharge a heavily discharged battery - the stator can’t produce that kind of power like an automobile can.... they will only MAINTAIN a battery that’s 85-100% charged. Btw expect to pay over $100 US for a good new battery. Your friendly bike dealer also has the ability to test and charge your battery, but plan on leaving it there overnight HTH, -Skip
  13. At that mileage, pretty much nothing. I’d like to see at least 2 oil changes based on time elapsed and preferably yearly (not a deal breaker). Any clatter at startup that doesn’t resolve quickly. Check for a dot on the end indicating the shift shaft has been replaced. Enquire about handlebar mount recall. Tires may be cupped due to age and sitting. Check for clutch cable fraying at the lever side and if the chain is crusty. All I can thing off. These bikes are pretty bulletproof. Plan on coolant, brake fluid, and oil change due to age, and possibly tires. HTH, -Skip
  14. Not advisable, and Yamaha specifically say NOT to do that. YMMV, -Skip
  15. I can’t believe i’m about to say this, but go ride a Niken. Don’t look at the front end, just go ride it. It really feels like a cross between a ‘Wing and a GT. Just a tad bit heavier, but more comfortable over greater distances IMHO because it just feels more solid and planted. It’s difficult to describe. Plus the seat is a bit comfier and the wind protection is better. If you have access to a shop with one in stock, or the Yamaha demo truck which is making its way across the country, then go ride one. -Skip
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