KillEmAll4u

A mode is so much more fun with a flashed ECU. :)

I wonder how many of you in my age group (50-60) own ebikes as well? I just bought my first mountain bike ebike and I'm on it more than my tracer right now. Lol

I added the OEM Yamaha quick shifter to my regular Tracer 900. I've never used one before in my life but I thought I would give it a shot. WOW that thing is incredible! Running through the gears with an open throttle and no clutch is just thrilling. It works flawlessly. The acceleration is fantastic but also the 'pop' the exhaust makes when shifting is very satisfying! Pop pop and look down at the speedo and your at 75 mph! LOL

I'm 54. Funny how most of us fall around this age. I guess this is the bike that our age range gravitates to.

@manimal What mm pin size did you use on your stand to support the bike?

You beakers are just *way* out of control! Lol

I appreciate your comment and it's a good point. This is the biggest bike (size and cc) I've owned so I don't have any other perspective as far as bigger bikes for passengers. Maybe down the road I will buy an FJR when I get bored with this one then I know for sure passengers won't be a problem!

I did a search and couldn't find any relevant info on here discussing this situation so I thought I would throw it out there. It's an issue I come across now and again and it's a grey area problem with no elegant solution. So let's say that a lady (could be a guy) is interested in taking a ride with you as a passenger. They seem calm enough to handle being a passenger and maybe they even have some riding experience BUT they are a bit *heavier* than you feel comfortable with. They could be very tall or wide or a combination of both. You feel that the weight of this passenger would cause some dangerous instability to the bike in whatever way you can imagine. The stock suspension would be one good reason. Now it's a given that you decline to give this person a ride for safety reasons, but what clever ways have you come up with to convey this to the other person? What passenger attributes cause a no-go for you?

You buy a bright blue t-shirt with the Yamaha logo covering the entire front so that when you walk in some place not carrying your helmet people know you ride.

I use the air hawk 2 medium. Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045WBVUM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have to replace the left side cowling (#40 in pic below). The Yamaha emblem (#63 in pic below) is about $20 which I'm not going to pay for and the "Tracer 900" sticker (#69 in pic below) I don't care about. Is it relatively easy to remove this emblem and transfer it to the new cowling and what type of glue would you recommend? Thanks everyone.

I bought that exact kind from pyramid plastics for my bike. Because I am 5'11 I had to angle down the controls for ergonomics so I needed that extension on the top to stop the wind from hitting my hands. They fit perfectly and look good and do the job intended. A bit pricey for some plastic but they work.

I laughed when I saw the topic of this thread because I knew exactly what you were going to ask before I read it. Kerplunk would be the perfect word and/or sound for the bike going into first gear on my bike as well. I've read so many threads about the noises this bike makes that I've stopped paying any attention where as before I was hyper-sensitive over any noises. It's a great bike. I know you will enjoy it!

Thanks so much guys. I really appreciate the information.

Hi @AtcGuy. Thanks for the comment and glad you love your setup. I've got the dynojet powervision 3 ECU flasher and I have the tune file for Akrapovic exhaust ready to go. I have of course flashed the ECU with the stock exhaust and that has made quite a difference. I am interested in getting the Akrapovic exhaust but I have a question for you. Did you have to remove the center stand to install this exhaust and after the installation is the center stand still usable with this exhaust? Oh and which version of the Akrapovic exhaust did you buy? Thanks!

Let the modding begin!

@Sqbydoo The nut that you are showing in your picture is to tighten the mirror so that the whole assembly does not move forward and backward. That nut is accessed by a 10mm socket (as I recall) but you have to grind down the outside of the socket because the outer diameter has to be thin enough to fit down inside that area. But as shown by MrFritz86 the base of the mirror is what needs to be removed so that the hand guard can be removed. Please keep in mind that the base of the mirror on the right side has reverse threading as marked by the horizontal notches. You will have to 'tighten' to 'loosen'. Word of advice: When you reinstall the long allen wrench bolt into the end of the handle bars that holds on the hand guard, use some BLUE loctite on the end of the bolt before installation to keep it from loosening up due to vibration. That was my experience.

I have a 2019 Tracer and bought the Power Vision 3 from Dynojet. I flashed the tune file provided by Dynojet to my ECU and the bike runs so much better. The reason I am bringing this up is because if I wanted to, I am able to modify the maps for Mode A, STD and Mode B under the Drive By Wire section of the Dynojet software. It is possible that the previous owner had done this and if they made Mode B the fastest (which is counter intuitive) then who knows what other settings they messed with. You can damage the engine by messing around with these settings without the proper knowledge. Sounds like you made the right decision to not buy this bike.

I'm not sure why so many are 'pumpkin' haters. Lol. I installed the BlasterX with the two Y connectors so that the pumpkins work in conjunction with the BlasterX. In my opinion, the more information and lighting I can give to the driver behind me the better. Also with such a small surface area on the combo brake/blinker sometimes it's difficult to tell if it's a blinker flashing and even which one it is, right or left and that's from a fellow motorcyclist. Just my opinion. Nice looking bike though!

As I recall they were pretty close to being the same length. Sorry I can't give you a definite answer on that one. Very very nice levers though.

Thanks for the responses guys. I live in a large apartment complex and my garage is a good distance from my apartment. No access to the sun and of course an extension cord is out. Does anyone see a reason why a rechargeable jumper/charger hooked to the battery once a week to give it a full charge wouldn't work? I know lead acid batteries like to be fully charged at all times but being charged weekly with consistent rides in between seems to me not so bad a thing. Maybe I have to replace the battery a little sooner than normal but to have the bike ready to ride at all times would be a good trade off in my opinion. Seems to be a topic that a lot of people are interested in. Solar power trickle and extension cord trickle are fantastic options if available. Thanks everyone. As always I appreciate and respect your opinions!

Well here is an idea that might work. Using the portable 'jump starters' that also charge to go out to the garage once a week and fully charge the bike's battery. Then run the bike for a little bit to keep the gasoline from sitting in the lines too long even though I use STA-BIL in the tank. Maybe this is the best option. Let's see who chimes in.

Hey everyone. So I've been looking around the internet and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. Hopefully someone can help. I keep my bike in a garage that does not have electricity. My solution has been to remove the battery during the winter and keep it on a trickle charger in my apartment. I miss many riding days though because once I take it out I don't feel like putting it back in. So I'm looking for a device that I can plug into the wall at home, give it a good charge and connect it to my bike for a couple of weeks to trickle charge it in the winter so that the bike is always ready to go. I can grab the charger and plug it in every week or two weeks at home and then reconnect but my bike battery will always be charged. I see portable rechargeable jump starters but nothing that has trickle charge. Please let me know if you have my same situation and what your solution has been. Thank you!!

You wrap a string around the rear wheel and extend the string on both sides to the front of the bike with no obstructions. You measure the width of the rear wheel and use jack stands as posts or something similar and measure the same width between the distance of the strings in the front to match the width of the rear wheel. So you are basically getting a good visual aid of the projected alignment of the rear wheel to the front of the bike. Then measure the distance of the strings to the front tire on each side and adjust the alignment of the rear wheel accordingly. If the projected alignment (the strings) of the rear wheel leaves equal distance on each side of the front tire then you know the rear tire is aligned with the front tire. Hope that makes sense and I know this because I did it myself with perfect results. Many other tools and methods but this one is free!

Very nice looking levers! So in my opinion when I added the Evotech levers they transformed the bike. How much difference are you noticing with these adjustable levers? Just curious.