duckie

So, waited a few days…….went to start it up why WOT on the first try…..did not start…….hmmmm maybe the injectors were turned off…..or just too cold… Did a about three cold starts with about 15 secs run time each. Then did a WOT start………it started and headed to full RPM so, if the injectors are turned off at WOT…..it should not have started.

It disproves the bullshit about a FI needs to come up to operating temp and the ECU dumping extra gas into the engine…. And a battery needs to be fully charged And that lots of people really dont know what they are talking about.

So, got a 19 GT…its 46 degrees….been sitting awhile… I just went out, started it up, let it idle for 20 sec, didnt give any throttle input…..turned it off… Waited about 10-15 sec…..tried to start it up……guess what…..it started right up…. Did this same routine two more times……started right up….it never got warm. The only thing happen was the TCS light flicked until I applied rear brake. Just food for thought……

Something to remember is this is a fuel injected engine. And they run pretty lean in stock form. I just dont think riding style was the main reason for the build up.

Please continue to keep us updated on this. Im real curious on what would cause such a buildup. Much thanks.

Just thinking out loud here…. It’s important to get the numbers of the measured valve lash gap on each valve. If adjustments was performed, it’s important to know which valves were adjusted and the shim sizes used. It just might be those valves that are leaking were within spec when checked but in spec toward the tight side and finally went too tight causeing the valves to be open at TDC. Or the valves sunk into the head which would also allow the valve to be open at TDC.

On Sinday, I met a young rider doing his first ever track day. He has 11 years of street riding in the hills around here. Nice guy. I started sharing what little I know about track riding. I went over the somethings about track riding. Heres some of the things discussed: Keep your eyes up, look through the corner. Spin the motor more, be in the right gear. Forget about lap times Track riding is about learning about yourself and what the motorcycle can really do. Hold his line, be predictable and easy to pass. Shift his weight to the inside peg to help with being light on the bars. The bars are not for holding up your upper body. And use the whole track. Dont use street lines. Be smooth, fast will come. I think, in reality, this was more for me than him. Sunday, everything just clicked for me. My past racing experiences from many years ago finally emerged. I checked in with him a couple of times during the day. Hes hooked. He was on his street ride and now gonna look for a dedicated track motorcycle. He was all smiles and grins and thanked me for my advice as it helped him. He stated that he didnt realize what his motorcycle and him could really do. He was surprised about that. This was the real highlight of my track weekend.

Last weekend was spent going around Thunderhill. Ive been working on my body position, being in right gear at right time, spinning the motor more, using more engine braking and so on. The throttle on the R1 has different size reels to adjust how quick the throtte opens up the throttle bodies. The one I have installed is progressive. The more the throttle is opened the quicker it gets in opening the throttle bodies. I rotated it forward more to change where the progression starts. That made a really big change. Because Im on the quicker part of the reel sooner, engine response was quicker. It took a bit to figure out why the R1 was getting out of the corners quicker, picking up speed quicker. My tire wear changed also. Now, I didnt need to twist the throttle as hard to get out of corners, plus since the engine picks up quicker, I wasnt plowing the front as much. But the real secert to being faster was……….riding in C group and not B group. I normally ride B but I wanted to work on a few things at a reduced pace. What I wasnt expecting was how the change in throttle position was gonna effect the R1. It was a whole different motorcycle. It became much easier to go faster with a engine that responds faster to throttle input. My corner speed went up alot. I got alot of passing practice, something I needed work on. It was alot of fun this last weekend. It was like everything Ive been working on came together. I was kinda uncomfortable in B cause of all the rust in my track riding. But now, I feel comfortable in being in B.

Oil just doesn’t evaporate. Heres my 2 cents worth….. Check the air box for oil. Check plugs for burning oil. And here is the fun one….do a leak down test. This may not really be needed. I would not wait to take it to a dealer. Oils gotta be going somewhere

Simple answer is the QS switch went bad. Not sure how to check it. There is a way to turn the QS on and off but I forget how. Just a possibility but highly unlikely. Can you still access the maintenance menu? Does CC still work? Engine light on?

Shows in stock https://bobsmotorsport.com/items/itemid/20864905/Side-Case-Mounts/

If I go for local ride where I know I wont be refueling, I go to the track and put in some 96 octane gas. Makes STD mode feel like A mode and makes A mode into Big Ass Grin mode. It really likes 96 octane.

Plus you dont have to worry about adjustment causing a possible issue.

Yamaha also had issues with FJR trannys. So, Yamaha will take care of tranny issues when there is enough evidence to prove there is a true issue.

Thing about using the QS is……you gotta also shift quickly……quicker than when the clutch is used. The shift has to be quick and full movement of the shifter.

I like to do a pre ride wipe down. This way I can look over the motorcycle for anything out of the ordinary before the ride. I just recently clean the wheels. Forgot what color they were.

I tried the foaming thing on a car. Didnt like it. Still had to hand wash to get stuff off. Not sure how good it would be to get bugs off the underside of the wind screen.

So, you got ACC on and a car cuts in front you suddenly, what happens?

I remember something about the rear brake adjustment being the problem with someone on here when their CC was acting up.

Omg a issue with something mechanical……better get all over Yamaha, damn manufacturers cant make things perfect. Sometimes its just best to remember that shit happens. Its not a perfect world, things break despite the best efforts of manufacturers. Ever hear of act of god? Kinda wonder what you did to break it.

So, does ACC need to “see” a car to work? Theres gonna be times there is no one in front of you. Does it work like regular CC until a car is in front of you then goes into ACC? just curious as I have no experience with ACC in a car or motorcycle.

Wow, if thats is for sure about ACC only….Yamaha screwed up big time. I use CC alot just to go slow at times for sightseeing or such. Ill stick it in 4th, enage CC around 29 and just putt along. Big mistake Yamaha……

Partzilla shows the 19 non gt and gt using the same swingarm. Also, partszillia shows the 15 fj 09 shock will fit on the 2019 non gt tracer. So, the real question is the shock length. Is it different between the 19 non gt and the gt.

There have been a few times where I was getting ready to downshift and put my foot on top of the shifter and for some reason, it would downshift smoothly without use of the clutch or any action on the throttle. I havent tired to do it on purpose.

Actually still got my balls…….big ones too.