vespadaddy

Wow. The Douchenozzle was set to a wide pattern in this video.

I don't. I always get off and hold the bars and front brake. That said, it might be marginally safer to put the sidestand down before I hop off the seat. But even then, the larger pad on the sidestand would be of little use to me.

I was all set to buy one of these sidestand foot enlargers, as it seems like a no-brainer type of upgrade, and then I realized, I almost never use the sidestand. I wonder how many FJ-09 riders use the centerstand, almost exclusively? It pops up on the centerstand with ease, and it seems to be the safer, more convenient option to me.

Which cruise control switch did you end up using? The Super Tenere switch block, or the trail tech?

I swapped out my OEM oil drain plug for the Mazda shorty replacement, filled the oil, tightened the filter, and re-installed my reflashed ECU. I left the side panels, signals and tank shroud plastics uninstalled, since the tank will be coming back off on Monday for the cruise control install. I also installed my new Givi TankLock ring. The BF23 ring is rather tall, and a bit visually obtrusive, but I'll probably have the tank bag on all the time anyway.

Love my pussygrips. P-) Similar to grip puppies. I would be concerned that those pussygrips would get hot and moist if I wrapped my hands around them for too long on a ride.

I'm wondering why Yamaha spent 3p on a piece of foam just to reduce the power output of an engine they spent a fiver on to make more efficient. Maybe that's why they lopped one cylinder off, to save more. Or, hang on, did they add one cylinder - I'm confused.My guess on the reason for the foam: I'll bet it reduces intake noise (honk). I'm betting the air filter will require more frequent servicing too.

Me too. I insured mine for $600. USPS charged $9 for that. $500 insurance might be a better option.

Personally, if I am going to bother to pull all the stuff off required to get to the plugs, blow out the plug recess with compressed air, and then snake the plug socket, extension, etc in there, I'm going to replace the with new plugs.

I'm planning to use full synthetic Rotella. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-Synthetic-5W-40-Motor-Oil-1-Gal/14958681 $20 at Wally World. Safe for motorbike wet clutches. Cheap.

What??

My dealer told me that the rubber-topped FZ pegs are a straight swap. I dislike the pegs on my FJ: being so heavily 'studded' - rather resembling some weapon out of a Middle Ages weapons armoury - they do not readily allow me to move my feet around. Was told here (Oz) the FZ's pegs will cost around $150. No doubt cheaper aftermarket items are available. L of S The stockers haven't bothered me yet, but IIRC, the FZ6 pegs are much cheaper, and fit. Rubber topped, too.

Which Calsci screen? The tall touring?

If weight reduction and/or CCA capacity increase is what you're after, wouldn't you be further ahead with a LiPO or LiFPo battery? I bought an AlienMotion battery for my Husky, and it's smaller, lighter and more powerful than the stock battery. The price might be higher than an AGM battery, but given the farkles a lot of people are hanging on this bike, the price difference between battery types seems small.

There is no shipping cost if these are purchased directly from the manufacturers site. They were very easy to work with and very responsive to emails etc... Highly recommend going to them vs the distributor i saw charging ridiculous shipping charges. I agree, this is true for US consumers. I don't think it applies for other continents.

I've finally had an opportunity to ride my bike, and the Kouba mirror extenders are my favorite mod thus far. The mirrors actually work, without requiring me to fold my arms in like a freezing anorectic bird. And, if you aren't intimately familiar with the FJ-09, you would never notice that there are mirror extenders installed. They match very well, same circumference, etc etc. The Kouba extenders are well worth the cost for USA consumers. (shipping)

Your knob slipped out of that tiny circlip? Sorry for you on so many levels... Read more: http://fj-09.org/thread/220/fj-today#ixzz3VY3iMqWc

I gave the part # to my dealer and he ordered it. The backrest pad is still not in stock, but is coming.

Here's a link to the Yamaha case I bought. It fits on the Yamaha rack, and is quick on and off. Holds 2 helmets, and looks like it matches the lines of the bike a bit better than other trunks I looked at (my opinion, obviously). Also, you can re-key the lock on the yamaha trunk (and bags), to use the ignition key. http://www.yamaha-motor.eu/eu/accessories/genuine-options/luggage/50l-top-case-city/34B-F84A8-10-00/details.acc

Yes, they fit using the same mounting points. The inner 2/3 of the bag is the same, just the lid is thinner, so the bike won't be quite as wide as the FJR. Yamaha does have a nice OEM trunk that will hold 2 helmets. That's what I went with--city hard bags and a big trunk. All of it pops on and off in seconds.

I did manage to re-key all 3 factory Yamaha hard bags to use the ignition key today. I have the FJ-09 Yamaha side cases, and ordered the lockset for them. It came with 3 locks. I also ordered the 50L Yamaha top case, and the lockset that goes with that. The only part of the trunk lockset that I used was the black aluminum tumbler housing, into which I installed the extra side case tumbler. The top case lockset tumbler takes its own specific key blank, so I elected not to use that tumbler. It is an extra. But you still need to order the topcase lock tumbler, as you need that specific black aluminum lock surround, that the tumbler fits into, and also, the rectangular aluminum tumbler back plate that fits in the rectangular orange recess of the trunk to provide the locking action. So, to re-cap, I re-keyed all 3 of my lock tumblers, so now they all use the ignition key. One key for the whole bike. I was able to do this by just swapping the little pins that the key fits through, that are held in the tumblers. I did have to file down 2 pins, so they are flush with the OD of the tumbler when the key is inserted. Note: If you do this job, make sure you have a clean and tidy working surface. The tumblers have 5 pins and 5 corresponding tiny, tiny springs. It would be easy to lose these springs. I only had to file or sand down 2 pins total to get all locksets to work, with all 3 tumblers still housing 5 pins. Note #2: The tutorials online that I read describe the pins as being different size. This isn't really the case. What changes from pin to pin is the location of the key slot. Some are biased more towards the top, others more towards the bottom. These are very small differences, and not easy to discern. I hung them all from a precision screw driver shaft so I could compare how the tops and bottoms matched up.

I've been eyeballing those same crash bobbins, but I'm not sure if the second set, which mount on the rear-most motor mounts, closest to the rider's knees are either 1), necessary, and 2), placed where they won't get in the way of the rider's knees. Do your knees hit, or come close to hitting, the rearmost set of crash pucks? I'm hoping to buy the kit with axle sliders and swingarm spool sliders, but am not sure about the 4 pack of frame sliders...

Found it. Which is good, as I intend to do this. I saw that someone posted that they were able to rekey all bags to the ignition key. If possible, that's my jam. http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/helmetlocks and, a better writeup fron ADV: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300753

Thanks for the info on the screen addition.

Thanks for doing this, and documenting it. While this mod isn't something I would do (I'm a big fan of the stealthy stock pipes--I like my speed to be as invisible as possible), it is a cheap option for people who want more sound, and the dyno pull and numbers show that at least it doesn't cause a power dip.