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  1. I’ve got the 24”. Is a pic in the “tracer 900 for long rides” thread of what I think is a 26”. Top edge is about at the level of the chin band on my helmet. I useta run my FJR screen about 2” higher-not planning on going taller depending how this winter goes-haven’t has any cold weather time yet (just got it).
  2. Did a search and didn’t see any info regarding Gilles Tooling adjustable levers. I acquired a set from Performance Parts Limited in the UK for $210 USD shipped, arrived in a week. My reason for ordering was the non-adjustable clutch lever. With the Gilles lever at the minimum reach adjustment, and clutch slack in the middle of the book spec, the final clutch switch engages when the flat portion on the lever is parallel and about 1/2” from the face of the factory heated grip. Initial clutch engagement starts at about this same point releasing the lever. Pretty much exactly where I wanted it. The palm of my hand is 3 1/2” wide, and with my slightly out from the inboard rim on the grip, they are primarily 3-finger+ levers-are substantially shorter than the OEM levers, but are definitely not 2-finger length shorty levers. Took a little tweaking, but readily found the sweet spot for the brake lever also, is adjusted “out” slightly from the shortest reach. Black finish looks great, there are some visible machining marks present. Regards; Mark
  3. I’ve got the 24” Madstad (6’ 2” 33”inseam) and it could be taller. Has a spot on the mount to place a RAM ball (one that has a u-bolt for handlebars bolts right on) for a equipment mount above the instrument cluster. I prefer it in the more vertical position (for maximum height) and did have issues with it blowing back in the “angle” adjuster slots over a ton-up. Made a set of spacers last night that essentially fix the angle where I want it, still have the vertical (2 3/8”) adjustment if I want to drop it. Stability can be an issue (of the bike, not the windscreen) but is my current understanding that any of the oversized windshields have the same problem. I am 195 lbs dressed and have to climb on the tank (front end is very light in general). Hope this helps. Mark
  4. Am 6’ 2” 33” inseam, running 24” Madstad at almost FWD-most (closest to vertical) position. Was having issues with the angle adjustment “blowing back”. Dusted off the 3d printer and made a couple blocks. Did have to pop the snap rings off and remove the knobs completely to install. Center of the radius on the knob ended up just a little too high. These fall apart maybe will tweak MK2 mod 2 a little...
  5. Did air-over-oil struts on planes for years, have only had an opportunity to change bike fork oil a fraction as many times. Not sure what the dynamic is-but both tend to come out really nasty. First MamaYama factory fork oil change shocked me also...
  6. Not a huge long distance touring guy, but put 40k miles on two FJRs in the last 6 extended NW Ohio seasons. That’s with a season and some change off for health issues. Have arthritis in my neck and degenerative damage in both shoulders (life-long aircraft mechanic), Loved. The. FJR. Unfortunately determined seating position was aggravating neck pain/causing neuropathy in already not-great right shoulder/arm/wrist. High center-of-gravity 650ish lbs had become just too much. Put 2k on my ‘20 Tracer GT since I got it about 6 weeks ago. Am 6’ 2” 33” inseam 195 lbs geared up. With the seat in the high position and the bar risers in the close position pretty much achieved my desired chin down/totally upright position. Size 10 boots/bumps on the ends of the pegs in the center of the balls of my feet/fit perfectly-pillion peg brackets are “right there” but no interference. Madstad 24” windscreen went on immediately, have about 75-80% of the forward protection of the FJR with a large touring screen (VStream). Handguards are off for the summer/think will be perfect for extended season (thumbs got cold on the FJR/no handguards). Will have to wait until fall to get a feel for foot protection. Get pushed around a little more by tractor-trailers on divided highways, is a little buzzier in the bars/can’t get as clear a view in the rear views/def more vibes in the pegs-could see where FJR pegs would make a big difference but at this point not feeling I “need” them. Handling-wise front is much lighter/turn-in effortless compared to the Feej. Grips aren’t the greatest, but fit my hand/are pretty much identical to the OEM heated FJR grips. It is a lot taller to throw a leg over than what I expected. In the saddle (again in the high position) is about perfect for me. Lighter weight/taller & what feels like wider bars has raised my shoving it around the garage confidence significantly. Only issue I’ve noted is still reaching a little too much forward/down for the bars/had to have them rotated back a little much for my taste to shorten “reach”. Just fitted a set of Motopump risers today, along with adjustable levers (Gilles Tooling) to get the clutch engagement where I wanted it (much closer to the grip). Lost the extended lid volume of the FJR, but bags/attachment identical/knew pretty much exactly what would fit in the bags. They are a little “sloppier” on the hooks. Have very high hopes and have had a fairly high standard for my GT set by my previous experience. Literally saw nothing else on the market for similar $$ that I thought would work as well. Been 30 years since I’ve had to deal with a chain/was actually looking forward to it a little. I ride aggressively, set the chain to min slack at 1k, checked it last night at 2k, still at min, no tight or loose spots, gets wiped down with mineral spirits on a rag & chain wax every 500 miles. Rear axle block has already started to be distorted by the axle “head”, have a set of the EBay FJ blocks coming from the guy in the UK (found in this forum). Only other thought is I have to really really climb on the tank to stop the front end from weaving when substantially over a ton-up (US ver is e-limited to 132 indicated FYI). Have established there are no mechanical issues, have raised the fork tubes 10mm in the clamps. With me on it, is just not loaded up enough up front, OEM windscreen reduces tendency slightly, as did removing the handguards for the summer. As others have mentioned in this forum, is undersprung if you are a big guy (using the handling gurus suspension settings aside from front end drop-so far tires look like compression/rebound are pretty close) and forks in stock trim are a little harsh/def not “plush”. If you need it to ride like a Wing you will be very disappointed. If you are willing to give up more of the touring for as others have said for more of the sport...well it just might be perfect. Sorry for the length- hope this helps. Regards; Mark
  7. Took the front end back apart to tweak the fork tubes-brain fart-front is a “round” three wire connector. Need to do some re-thinking. I’ll blame it on Corona...
  8. Thanks Scott Tracer GT (mine anyways) only has 2 pin/2 wire flat rectangular connectors instead of the round 3 pin front and rear. Fronts are continuously lit as marker lights, then interrupted to signal. Mark
  9. Trying to locate 2 pin OEM type turn signal connectors. Indicator end, not bike end. Have found multiple sources for 3 pin connectors and 3 pin splitters. The closest I’ve found is MamaYama Europe shows 2 pin to bullet connector harnesses, but I can’t seem to find an online vendor that stocks/sells them. Would like to swap out the great pumpkin assemblies with the Yamaha Euro accessory replacements, can find the plain black and “carbon matt” signals, but am not going to cut the existing bike-side connectors off the harness to fit them...