thewrenchbender

Thanks for sharing the pics/info. I’ve got an ‘08 R1 down the road that needs the flywheel changed, forks refreshed-told the owner I would really like to have their center maint stand on hand before I dug in…

Got new Mutant shoes and Evotech axle bobbins fitted. Over the winter added Heed bunker bars. Looking forward to trying the tires. Were sorta like Warchilds paddock hooks-because I wanted them… pix in pix

With regard to the original Copper Red I 100% agree, the almost red and the fact that it wasn’t an FJR is the only thing I couldn’t get around. was actually a little pumped to get back to a chain tho.

I hope I like them-too late now…

Just got new tires and axle “bobbins” installed. Been parked since last spring. Have throttle arm/shoulder issues and keep getting older. Also added flo yellow/green aerosol dip, Heed bars & Evo sliders, when (not if) I drop it again just gonna pick it up and ride on…

The main issue I have with it is that the extremely similar “menu” functions (plus windshield height) were provided with the exact switchgear present on the LH grip on my ‘15 FJR-and was accomplished effortlessly. I am not comfortable using my right thumb to manipulate a marginal (at best) interface. It did get a lot easier after I looked at the pic of the internals and saw exactly which direction to shove the wheel to “click” it-but is still too complicated to manipulate on the fly for me…

You wanna get really complicated, swap the switching harness side-to-side. So the wheel/click does throttle mode & ABS mode and the toggle & switch do menu select and scroll-which is how the menus/switchgear work on an FJR. I very seldom (never) change the throttle mode/ABS mode…

Zero clue how a modern COP bike works, but old school bike plugs sparked every crank rotation-erosion wear would be sorta similar to 2x car plugs for the same miles. My first Grand Marquis had coil blocks, 2 plugs fired ground-to-center 2 fired center-to-ground… Would like to tell ya I’ve never played with mercury-can say with confidence I’ve never had the urge to ingest it.

Still have the budget set I got in the mid-80’s. Piece of fiberboard, four glass tubes stuck in a plastic reservoir w/an o-ring around the top holding it all together…

Heh. Already had a buddy tell me that if I find the SMAX tipped over, well…what did ya think was gonna happen?

with its new garage mate. ‘06 Vino got recently swapped for a ‘15 SMAX w/1400 miles on it.

Don’t know squat about o-ring chains, is my first non-shafty since the 80s. Day job has been wrenching on things with wings for coming up on 38 years. Based on these other experiences however, me wiping the crud off my chain with generic mineral spirits on a rag followed by applying chain wax and turning the wheel to get it distributed should really not affect much…

Am just over 7k miles on my ‘20. Saw my first black tail hanging out @ 7k..mineral spirits and chain wax every 500-ish…

My scooter fleet just lost one of the Vino’s and gained a ‘15 Smax. Was struggling for a reflective graphic-ended up with this (same 3M black/lights up white)…

Was showing a bike brother the euro version of the MamaYama online accessory “showroom” last summer after I got my Tracer goo…

AIS typically allows ambient air from the airbox into the exhaust before it exits the head. On the FJR is a reed-type valve that lets the air enter into the port on the head when the AIS valve is commanded open. As others have stated-if you love the pops, throw on an exhaust and you will be in your happy place. I did a plate/delete on my FJR ‘cause with Yosh slip-ons was too much popping for me-still pops with an AIS delete, just not as much… Hope this helps.

Figured out not too long after I got my Tracer GOO GT that the handguards put the airflow straight up my sleeves. This time of year I appreciate it. Early Spring & late fall (and moderate winter) the handguard extensions I mount take care of that little issue. Imma skinny dude relatively and as others have posted on any bike if leaned forward a loose jacket balloons horribly on my back. So I don’t wear loose jackets…

Gilles Tooling fit perfectly/are also available through various means as the OEM upgrade lever under a MamaYama part #. However, if you want the levers engaging just off the grips, the GT ones are out some even adjusted all the way “in”…

I only use B when I’m riding 2-up, typically over a weekend. My Monday commute starts with pulling out from an intersection on a semi-limited access divided highway. If I’ve forgotten and left it in B-at WFO throttle am like W-T-F?!! Was messing with the traction control setting once for the helluvit. Following Monday morning trying to figure out why it’s chopping the power right about the time I am getting the best part…

If you don’t have it-you don’t have it. And if you do (and did riding it home from the dealership) then you do something about it. It’s still there with the stabilizer but only get the extreme edges of the periodic oscillation…and only then over 100…goes away if I climb up on the tank, just like it did without the stab.

You’ve got a water temp gage, if it seems to be an issue-yank it back out. Only time my water cooled Mamayamas run hot is with no airflow (in town), then the fan kicks on and it’s all better…

Cycle Terminal or Eastern Beaver have 99% of the connectors & pins.

Short version is each engine holds 9 gallons and less than a gallon an hour is “acceptable”. And I may have mentioned to management several times that the only issue was gonna be line service dumping the wrong oil in the wrong engine (some planes were split left/right)...

Or the screens on a “modern” Lycoming or Continental GA engine...think the worst I’ve ever seen were R-985s that had been running “non-detergent” oil that were accidentally serviced with “detergent” oil-they would collapse and have to be levered out of the housing... My nearly new (<400 miles) FJR oil and final drive changes did have me wondering...but after the first couple, and doing periodic oil analysis, Blackstone Laboratories assured me that everything was just fine.

I’m 190ish dressed and used Dave Moss’s settings on my ‘20. Not gonna post them/links because I’m not a subscriber. Hint the rear spring needs to be almost buried on the “high” side. Only thing I did different was dropped the front (raised the fork tubes) a little more than he did because I have to ride “straight up” due to physical limitations and the front ends up waaaay too light. Tracer Goo GT is my first upside-down fork bike, previous bike adjustments consisted of rider sag and fine-tuning damping using my tire wear. What I am learning is that stock suspensions like these are often too harsh and un-responsive, only solution is to spend $$$ to upgrade or run them “loose” so you don’t get beat to death riding on real roads/streets...and if you are a big boy (or girl) you are gonna have to do springs or you’ll never be happy/comfortable. Hope this helps. Mark