JonnyB

Hi Mark. Thanks for the reply. Ride safe. Cheers, JB

Hi Mark. Sounds like you have the bike sorted nicely. Can you elaborate on the clutch work? I did see a good post by someone in USA who swapped the original assembly for the newer style slipper clutch. I priced up the parts here in UK and as usual the cost was twice that of the USA, so didn't take this any further. I have put a R1 cable on my Tracer which does have a better feel in comparison to the original part. Regards, John

Thanks for posting this, Petshark. I have been thinking about a bike lift for a while, and any tips, advice and warnings are much appreciated. It probably didn't seem like it at the time but in retrospect I think you were lucky to have fairly minimal damage. Having put a dent in the fuel tank of my 3 month-old ZZR1100 when a skinny bit of softwood fell over in my garage I know how much these garage incidents can cost. Also, of course the main thing is that you didn't get hurt (physically if not mentally!!) Again, thanks for posting.

By coincidence I bought a genuine one from a Yam dealer yesterday. U.K. price £2.86 including V.A.T. That converts to $3.89. Bit surprised at $5 to $7 as comparisons with other parts has generaly shown U. K. prices to be dearer. For example, in the case of the clutch conversion parts from standard to slipper, the price was at least double IIRC.

I am sure I have heard or read of this. A safety feature that cuts the motor if the CPU gets no input from rider for a fair while. It covers a scenario where a bike ends up crashed but upright enough to not trigger the tilt switch shut-off. Happy to be corrected by someone who definitely knows either way!!

Having limited movement in my ankle, I have the same issues, and couldn't get on with moto-x style boots. I have sliced off the upper and lower ribbed areas on the shift rubber. Saves about 5 mm both sides. Doesn't sound much but reduces the pivot angle enough to be worthwhile for me. For info, for my FJ12 I fabricated a double ended shift lever (like a horizontal vee shape - hope that makes sense). That was a faff to make but worked really well.

the larger battery is near 2 lbs heavier . that's a lot. Near 2lb? Actually 1.6 lbs. I would be astonished if anyone could tell from moving or riding a Tracer if it had the bigger battery fitted.

I changed to a larger 14A battery after 4 years. Other than a small saving in weight and cost I can't see the point in staying with the standard size. It's like Yamaha specced for the bigger battery at the design stage, then saved a few quid, dollars etc. with a smaller battery and a foam spacer.

You must have an aftermarket system fitted, as pretty much all recent original bikes (except Ducati!!) are fairly quiet. Don't know where you are but here in U.K. it seems there is always someone wanting to noisy-up their bike. I expect you could arrange a swap with some local like-minded person, taking their standard pipe for yours? On a personal note, good to read of someone who doesn't feel the need to make a sh1t-load of noise when out and about. (head now ducked down below the parapet in expectation of a volley of abuse from the pro-noise brigade!!!).

Thanks for responding, 1 more road. I was trying to make a comparison between 2 outcomes; 1. The energy from the impact is spent destroying the pipes and crankcase etc but the bike stays upright and the rider stays onboard. 2. The rubble gets under a skid plate which doesn't deform, so the energy is spent tipping the bike over, throwing off the rider. With apologies to the O.P. for using his ordeal as a point for discussion.

First things first - good that the O.P. is o.k. I might be spouting rubbish here but I wonder if, in this instance, a sump guard may have made things worse? The damage may have acted like a crumple zone on a car, dissipating the energy. If the debris had been met by the harder surface of a bash plate it may have lifted or skewed the bike, with a worse outcome for the rider? Apologies, there are a lot of "maybes" and " possiblies" in this post. I think overall a bash plate is a good thing, especially for a bike with a vulnerable sump plug.

It was rarely successful adjusting out-of-tolerance wrenches, it just moved the error up or down the scale.

P.S. Getting the Snap-on rep to take our torque wrenches away for factory service, calibration and return was more expensive than buying a new wrench. This is in England. I guess it should be more achievable in U.S.

Just for info. At work we had an electronic torque test machine that we used to on-demand or annually check through their range the dozen/ 15 wrenches used in our workshops. It did confirm that the more expensive wrenches, especially the click-stop setting versions that have a locking ring (like snap-on) gave the best results. Any wrench > +/-3% error was replaced. Generally, this error gradually came in at the highest settings. Basically, don't expect a cheap / old / uncalibrated wrench to give accurate results, especially as the target settings are generally based on new dry fittings rather than the bolts you may have pulled and refitted x times.

Rather than buy a new hub, can you use helicoils or similar to repair? I have done this on several alloy parts over the years.