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petshark

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petshark last won the day on March 14

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  • Location
    Belgium
  • Bike
    2019 Tracer 900 GT

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  1. That's great to hear. Well, not really but you know what I mean. Thanks!
  2. And to make it more interesting still, OP can both mean the Original Poster and Original Post. So the person and the first post. If found that quite confusing before I finally understood. A little OT of course (Off Topic, or was it On Topic?)
  3. I've just found 2 threads on this forum concerning the same thing. The 80 Nm / 59 lb ft in the manual is too high. I read that it might work with new nuts but it doesn't say in the manual that they need to replaced. I tried to prepare really well, saw many videos, read the section in the manual a few times and set to work installing both sprockets and chain. Front sprocket install and chain breaking went well. Then the easy part: for the rear I did the criss-cross pattern while gradually tightening but.. the wrench never clicked. I started to worry and tried 40 Nm, it clicked just fine on all nuts. I figured it just needed to be tighter untill one or two started loosening and my worst fears became reality: stripped. Couldn't believe it. I'm learning many hard lessons with this bike... this time it's "don't trust the manual". This nut actually sits a little higher on the stud than the others. It started turning the stud instead. While I could get it back out, it took the stud with it which to me indicates that the nut is really tight and the stud has stripped the aluminum threads in the hub (200 euro's 😮). In the other threads people talk about stripped nuts so I still have hope but not a lot. If you zoom in on the stud the threads seem stripped as well so could it be that the hub is somehow stronger than the stud? Can't be, right? That would be great news of course. Any insights are much appreciated as always. Tomorrow is a holiday so no deliveries until at least monday. That day I happen to have a master course that I have really been looking forward to and paid for so I need the bike. So I've just epoxied the stud in place and will try all nuts tomorrow with a lower torque setting and if they are all holding I will install the wheel and check it often.
  4. This thread is an emotional rollercoaster; from amusement to shock to sadness (for that poor destroyed pannier) to curiosity and now I suspect it's going to end with jealousy. Cause you''ll have the best pannier of them all!!
  5. That looks good! Lightech offers that model as well if I'm not mistaken but I liked the simplicity of the pin system. Most importantly I can't send it back so I have to find a way to make it work.
  6. My new Lightech stand arrived today. It fits perfect, has a small footprint, is light and seems well-made but the pin can't go in on the left because of the pinch bolt. Never thought of that.. It works like this but I don't want the bolt to get damaged over time. So I'm thinking to take the angle grinder to the new stand and make the pin small enough to just fit underneath but I'm not sure if it will still "grab" the hole that way. And it would be a shame to break it (I don't have any welding tools) Has anyone done this or know a better solution? Thanks!
  7. JT Front (with rubber) and Supersprox Stealth (black and gold) are on the way. 😇
  8. A lot of valid points and unlike facebook there's not one on here that I quickly scroll over and ignore. 👍 The shop manual's advice is this: If I only had this to go on, I would think that the sprocket was still really good because I honestly don't know what I'm looking at. I need to see a new sprocket first. Seeing that most agree that it has to go I'll order a new one. Indeed this bike has problems enough so I'd better play it safe. I aligned it not long after I got it using the string method and the bike always tracked straight hands-free. But when I noticed the chain sitting to the right on the rear sprocket (first pic below) I redid the alignment using a caliper in the space beneath the set screw. I got a different result so I may indeed have been a little off, although I really did a meticulous job with the string method, going back and forth numerous times. I just ordered a motion pro alignment tool for the new chain so that it's easier to check. If the rear sprocket looks bad please let me know because I am about to order the front sprocket only. I still don't know what to look at.. I see some wear but have no idea how bad it is. Thanks!
  9. I was about to put the new DID VX3 chain on and paused when I saw the front sprocket. @tktplz Does this look at least as good as yours when you put a new chain on at 13.000 miles? (referring to this post). I want to follow your advise but I have to make sure that this looks normal for 12.500 km. (7800 miles) I asked on Facebook to be able to decide quickly if I could proceed or order sprockets after all. Cue 80 replies with the usual polarization. One half said replace, the other half said still good... add some extreme answers and people claiming to be experienced mechanics on both sides and I just cleaned the area and closed it back up. The dealer for one agreed that at this mileage I can put a new chain on there and replace the sprockets when the second chain is worn but... he didn't see this sprocket. Where I live the gold DID VX3 chain is only 80 euros and both sprockets are 60 euros so if I get a few 1000 miles less out of the chain It's still less expensive than replacing the sprockets prematurely. So what do you think? Normal wear for this mileage or did my chain do bad things to it? SMALL PRINT: I appreciate all input but there is no need for a flood of "ALWAYS REPLACE SPROCKETS WITH CHAIN". I am a rational person and I suspect that people that follow this advice will never get the chance to see if it was really necessary so it could be overkill. I will however take that opinion in consideration but here I am interested in real world examples of people who do sometimes do 2 chains for 1 sprocket set.
  10. If you're 6'3" I think that many of the options listed might be too small. I initially bought the Tracer 900 because the Tracer 700 was really cramped and my knees wouldn't fit under the ridge of the gas tank. I suggest you also look at the Versys 650. I still love that kawasaki parallel twin and while I enjoy the hooligan character of the Tracer very much I can see myself going back to the Versys at some point. It is roomier and feels bigger than the tracer. The stock seat is also not great but it's riding position was more comfortable (to my 6'). I never found the engine to lack power, it's really fun, versatile and more playful than it's greatest rival, the Vstrom. And I also owned a Er6n with the same engine for 8 years and it was bulletproof. Never had any issue at all. With the Tracer I'm constantly chasing issues but that is another story. Highly recommended. According to Zach here, it's one of the best bikes out there for the money, better than the Tracer (although he adds that the CP3 engine is perhaps the best engine out there): FWIW I sold my Versys to someone who is 6'3" 😎
  11. I was following those instructions and used tip 1 (using a socket to press it in) and I didn’t have a washer that fit for tip 2. Reading this again, it does say “until the inner race makes contact with the spacer” and not until the outer ring/race (?) is seated. So it is in the manual! Thanks for pointing that out. I want to say that they could have put a warning there but I know that that manual is not made for an amateur like me so... lesson learned.
  12. Paper thin is not the technical spec but the spacer should be able to move just a little. That is how those how-to videos also show it. They can push the spacer to the side and use a punch to tap the bearing out. Not on the Tracer. With the fully seated bearings the spacer was pushing so hard against them that I had some trouble pushing the axle through because the holes were not perfectly aligned and it wouldn’t budge. Turning the bearing with a finger you could feel how much friction that pressure was causing. I could feel it while riding too. So while I agree that it is weird my conclusion is that when the bearing is fully seated the inner and outer rings of the bearings do not align and will probably quickly grind away the little balls inside. I have no idea why it’s not just the right size btw I had an epiphany while lying in bed what that ring around the spacer is for. 😀 Without it the spacer would fall to the side all the time when you are tapping in the bearing. It’s big enough to keep it approximately centered but it doesn’t touch the walls when the axle is installed. And it has to be on the left hand side because that’s where you insert the axle. This is kind of proof in itself that Yamaha wants the spacer loose. But why oh why is there no mention of this in the service manual?
  13. In his defence, he says you should be able to pop out the bearing with just one pull on the slide hammer when the rim is hot enough. At the same time he told me that his new mechanic warped two rotors by overheating the rim just last week. So I played it safe and used moderate heat and more banging. 😅
  14. @JDChico89 Great pics! I can certainly relate to passing that point of no return and defeating that arrogant piece of bad-fitting plastic. But those things are so crazy expensive for what they are... are you going to do a full restoration? 💪
  15. I did research it and I watched this very video but it is different on the Tracer. Also the order was respected as per the manual, my only mistake was letting the spacer fall out and not finding how it was supposed to go in. That was my conclusion as well, the pipe itself seems symmetrical, it just has that ring on one side, but the end pieces that touch the bearings are the same and the hole in the wheel is also the same on each side. Solution So I visited the dealer and he said that you don't fully seat the second bearing. You have to leave a paper thin gap so that the spacer can still move just a little inside. Easier said than done because one tap of the hammer goes from too loose to too tight. I did not see that in Dell's or the MC garage video''s so it must be a Yamaha thing. He said that I could reuse the bearing because I did not ride a lot on it. I've since removed one bearing and reinstalled with the spacer reversed (doesn’t do anything) and left it a little loose and now the wheel spins nice and long on the axle. I will order new ones though and do it all over because it took many hits with the slide hammer to get it out again. Another lesson learned! 😎 I'll be a real mechanic yet!
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