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larolco

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  • Location
    Langley, BC, Canada
  • Bike
    2020 Tracer 900 GT

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  1. To confirm: Turning off the TC does not keep the fault from occurring. (I tried it just to find out.)
  2. You can always double up on the cheap skinny ones. But that doesn't make it very cost effective. I once bought a replacement pack from Princess Auto, a low-price liquidator. Mistake. Nealy or similar is the way to go. Reputable brand and you can tell the difference when you see them side-by-side. I've run several rear tires to the end of life with a Nealy rope plug for almost the tire's full life.
  3. Both companies mentioned above are fantastic. I've used them both.
  4. I'm running a Tutoro on the GT. I had it on my Vee and loved it so much, it didn't go with the bike when I sold it. Don't bother with the dual feed applicator. Single is fine. Zap straps are your friend. I didn't need to fabricate any new bracketry that didn't come with the kit. I mounted to the left side luggage support. Put some thought into how you might mount on yours. Perfectly vertical is not necessary, but ease of filling is.
  5. Not cheap, but damn fine gloves. https://www.klim.com/Badlands-GTX-Long-Glove-3923-000?quantity=1&color=9 There are a little bulky but that's what you get in a winter glove. They are Goretex and have a double gauntlet which keeps rain from running down your sleeve and into your glove. For super cold riding (below freezing), I use heated gloves because I have them, but these would do just fine with heated grips.
  6. Buy a V-strom. I've owned both and put 220 000 kms on the Vee. It's a better bike for what you want to do. Don't put the Tracer through that. That would be a waste of an otherwise good bike.
  7. Puig touring on mine. It is the barn door, for sure. For winter riding, it will be perfect to keep the frigid wind away. Not a summer screen unless you don't like wind to cool. 5'11" bugs hit me mid helmet while in low position. I don't know why anyone would want it fully cranked up. No way you can adjust height while riding anyway; too much pressure. For hot riding, use something else.
  8. Anyone near me is welcome to visit and borrow the ODBII scanner that just cleared my TC code. It's the ebay special linked above. Works like a charm. I will now spin that back wheel up whenever I feel like it.
  9. Apparently turning off the TC prior to spinning the rear wheel does not make a difference. Still throws a code. Learned that yesterday. So, looks like I'm buying a scanner.
  10. Tried that this morning. No noticeable difference for me.
  11. On the ride home the other day, I messed around with varying shifter input. No difference whether firm or gentle. What does make a difference is RPM and whether or not you are accelerating. The key seems to be acceleration. The higher the RPM, the better. Shifting while holding a steady RPM, especially at lower RPM, seems to result in a clunky shift more often than not. Been meaning to mess around with the shifter adjustment as well. I'd like it to be a little higher than its stock setup, though now I think I've kind of become used to it. Initially, it drove me crazy having to dip a toe so low.
  12. I find it smoothest to shift at around 8500 RPM. I don't bother with the QS at low RPM. Anything under 5 is kinda clunky. But I've never experimented with firm vs gradual input. I'll try that on the ride home this afternoon.
  13. That's too bad it didn't work out. I, too, had good experience with their support when I inquired about the T-Rex rack. In the end, I ended up going with the Givi rack and M8 plate. It's a pretty skookum setup.
  14. The way the peg and side stand are designed, they interfere with the motion necessary to deploy the side stand. That feeler peg is always in the way, and catches the cuff of my pants. Solution is as above: remove feeler peg. I find my boot touches down before the peg ever does anyway.
  15. It's not just the total weight, it's the distribution of weight.
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