tedski

I think it's partly that and partly the newer coatings they put on the plug threads. Simple advances in science and manufacturing.

A similar thing used to happen to my Google Pixel 2. Went through about 3 warranty replacements before I realized the phone mounted in an x-grip was rattling the camera module loose. You'd go to open the camera app and the phone would crash and reboot.

I prefer JT sprockets, personally. They seem to be of high-quality/craftsmanship machining and I've been running them on all bikes for years now. As for chain, I am personally fine with any of the top brands o-ring or better chains that meet the spec (EK, RK, DID if they're on sale). As for sources, I price shop between Revzilla, BikeBandit, etc.

It's a coolant temperature sensor, not an engine temperature sensor. The coolant does change temperature that fast, of course. As to where it is, it's in the back of the head on the right hand side of the bike. See: and

Put it on the centerstand and spin each wheel independently (have someone push down on the rear of the bike to lift the front). It may be the rotors dragging in certain spots of the rotation.

But when you install the QS for the first time, you have to enable it. The enabling procedure is to hold the shifter up. That's why I think it's normally open. There's probably a logic check in the boot process of the ECU that checks if that circuit is closed (shifter up) and then flips the "QS Installed" bit.

I couldn't find the QS switch on the wiring diagrams in the FSM. I was hoping we could get the switch spec from there. But, thinking through the installation process... the way you enable the QS is to also hold the shifter up, so that leads me to believe it's normally open. My thinking is that when the connector is bare (bike without QS installed), the circuit is obviously open. If it were a normally closed switch, then holding the shifter up (engaging the switch) would not be a different state from the absence of a QS.

Hey, for the rest of us who actually want to have constructive conversation and learn from each other... please share your findings.

From experience with clutchless upshifts on all of my bikes (none have quickshifters), you learn that you can weight the shift lever and then decide when to blip the throttle to shift. With the engine load on the gears, the shift fork can't move things until the throttle is blipped and that pressure is relieved. This translates to the quickshifter mechanism so that the power cut is as near as the point of the shift fork being ready to move things. Hope that helps explain it.

Welcome! I also had a V-Strom 1k a few bikes back. I can easily see why the FJ-09 is a natural progression for many.

Huge +1 to this. I've done the custom Corbin thing and it's a great experience (they have a cafe on site with good WiFi so you can occupy time while waiting between iterations). I'll be headed to Ventura for a Bill Mayer Saddle for my '17 here soon, but they are not cheap.

I carry a MotoPort rain suit that I put over my 'stich if it's going to be heavy rain all day. Even if the 'stich is water tight, wet gear sucks in the hotel room each night. Rain gear wipes dry. I consider the 'stitch (and any cordura laminated gore-tex) good for what I call "commute rain" but if it's going to be heavy rain all day or multiple days... I'll take a rain suit.

The difference (advantage is subjective) is the power curve. I find all 3 modes to be smooth, but that's also subjective. I, personally, enjoy the power application of A-mode in the twisty stuff. I trail brake and I enjoy getting on the throttle through the apex and exit. A-mode allows me to do that with the most... "umph?"

My 'stich has also seen lots and lots of Death Valley and other hot weather riding. I never close the back vent. I open and close the underarm vents as desired while riding. With the underarm vents open, I lift my elbows (think dirt bike riding position) and the air flows right through. Is it perfect? Absolutely not. Is it adequate? Yes.

Forget about lighting, forget about hi-viz. Find a way to appear on their phone screen and they'll see you. Until then, ride as if every cage is out to kill you.

Are the T32s any easier to spoon on than the T30s and T31s were? Those previous gens were a bear to spoon on. I spoiled myself with PR5s this time around and not only were they super easy to spoon on, they are dreamy to ride. Boy does that pricetag sting. Maybe I'll go T32s next time and use the zip tie method.

Could not agree more!

So true! We have one goat trail here in the SF Bay Area where they laid down 2' wide puddles of tar snake stuff. The road gets full sun during the day and turns into puddles. You need to change your shorts after riding that section.

I would advise against gel. You want one of (or both) things out of seat improvement: air flow and/or firmness. The reason you want firmness is you want to sit on your sit bones. If the seat is squishy, then the soft tissue around your sit bones is compressed and that's where soreness comes from. If the seat is firm (shop for seats with your butt, not your thumb), then you sit on your sit bones and blood flow is not impeded. Air flow keeps the skin happy. Airhawk, beaded seats, sheepskin all help improve air flow while aftermarket seats like the Sargent and Corbin allow you to sit on your sit bones. To answer your actual question... I haven't tried them on the stock seat, but for me personally... the issue is equally seat shape and seat material. I can't sit on my sit bones and the squishy part of the seat suffocates my butt, but also the cut of the seat creates two ridges that hit on the wrong sides of my sit bones. So, while I have not tried them, I don't think they'd solve enough of the problem.

Tar snakes are a great reminder to stay loose on the bars, weight the outside peg and let the bike do its shimmy under you without consequence. Obviously keep an eye out for puddles of tar snake and larger groups that could turn an extended shimmy into a full on slide.

The Fuze Block brand takes both a constant hot and switched power and has a relay on board. There are two distinct "buses" that you can choose from when inserting your fuse (to make the connection for that terminal. One is constant hot and the other is switched. So, you choose by inserting the fuse into different "sockets." Hopefully this diagram helps:

Same here! I was out riding with a friend who has a '16 this weekend and I noticed my '17 stayed in A-mode. He was full of envy.

Welcome aboard! Congrats on the new ride.

Funny thing about the color. I don't really care what color a motorcycle is, never have. I just ride the things. But, this is the 4th white bike in a row I've bought... completely coincidental ('93 VFR, '09 DR650, '16 Duke 390). I plan most of my friend group's sport touring trips and the moniker has become "follow the white bike." All that said... I'm falling in love with the white of the FJ. Maybe not as much as the flying fridge VFR, but give it time.

You raise a good point. Here we are nitpicking aftermarket seat brands and you hit it right on the head: anything past the stock seat is such a huge improvement. Every single one of my bikes always gets the seat replaced with an aftermarket seat. So, Sargent, Corbin, Rocky Mayer, Bill Mayer, etc... it doesn't matter... as long as it's firm and wider than your sit bones and your seat endurance goes way up.