glaschu

Today I replaced the front brake switch with a new unit. The cruise control has been intermittent for a while, I don't really use cc much so wasn't too bothered about this. But more recently the brake light itself started acting up, sometimes staying on when the brake was off. New switch unit (60 of the finest British pounds) has solved both issues.

I removed the exhaust to help access, though I didn't find the link nuts too tight. I think I had to alternate between 1/4 and 3/8" drive ratchets and spanners as access allowed. Awkward but do-able. Kept the bike on centre stand and levered the back wheel up and down to get the link bol holes lined up. I was reverting ride height back to normal as I'm tall enough to manage stock, but didn't find any problems with side or centre stand even with the lower links. I did find ground clearance bad with the lowering links and the bike loaded (pillion and luggage), which was the main reason I wanted to revert to stock

Jumping into trying to (maybe destructively) opening the headlight unit seems premature here. There must be separate supplies to the unit for the daytime running lights, the dipped beam and the headlight. It would make sense to check that these go live when they're supposed to first. Or if you have documentation of the connector pins on the headlamp unit you could try applying 12V manually (a nice current limited supply would reduce the possibility of things going pop if ypu get connections wrong). But probably first - have you checked all the bike fuses?

I replaced the Yam lowering links with the standard ones. I meant to measure seat height before and after but forgot. But seat-of-the-pants tells me it's not a big change, maybe 15mm is about right. It does impact ground clearance, so I wouldn't recommend the lower links if you're heavy\carry a passenger\tour with heavy luggage...

I was finding the front end knocking sounds from my 900GT really annoying, the knocking didn't happen that often, but when it did it just made the bike sound really...... cheap. So I decided to strip down some of the front end plastics to find anything that looked like it could do with padding or tightening. One thing I found that has made a huge difference is adding some padding around the headlamp adjuster rods where they go through the little metal clamps near the knobs. The clamps are very loose and metal to metal contact, so the knock when going over bumps can be quite loud. I wrapped a couple of turns of self-amalgamating rubber tape over the rods where they go through the clamp but there sould be lots of other fixes possible, although need to make sure that the rod can still be turned.

My day was being busy removing the lowering suspension links and replacing them with the factory originals. Haven't gone for a ride yet, and forgot to properly measure before and after ride height, but can definitely feel the saddle higher when sitting on it. Thanks to the forum and members who helped with some documentation the switch went pretty smoothly.

Yeah, the noice cancelling is black magic. Last intercoms I had were old dumb and cheap wired ones which were useless above 30mph, so the Lexin's are a revelation to me. I did consider using the sticky mount, but wasn't sure how much confidence I would have it holding on long term through all weathers...

For anyone thinking of buying a bluetooth intercom set here's my experience of the Lexin B4FM that I've been using for the past couple of months. I bought a pair from Amazon UK based primarily on the large number of positive user reviews. The pair cost £150, so they lie somewhere between the cheap unknown brand sets and the more expensive Cardo and Senna sets. The Lexin's come with both boom and loose wire mics., so no extra cost here if you need either option. Fitting one to my AGV-K3 was fairly straight forward using the supplied screw-together clamp that grips the helmet shell. As supplied, the clamp did not feel super secure, so I cut a piece of foam rubber to match the contour of the helmet and act as a spacer inside the clamp. This mod made the fitment rock solid. Same approach was used for my wife's modular MTS helmet, although in this case the boom mic was used. One problem with the MTS is that the tinted visor controls sit at the bottom left side of the helmet, so I had to mount the intercom on the right side instead. I had some concerns that this might cause a problem with water getting into the electronics as the USB-C connector used for the mic and headset now faces forwards, but so far it has been used through some serious rain with no issues. Battery life is good - running them for a couple of long-ride days doesn't even register a battery drop. Audio quality is good, with wind noise all but removed when talking to a listener on a phone call or on a connected intercom. Headset volume also goes very high - painfully high if not using earplugs, but this is needed if I'm using the silicone wax earplugs that block a lot of sound. I can't really report on range as I don't use the intercoms for communication in a group of riders, only for rider to pillion, phone calls and GPS directions.

Hi everyone. New Scottish Tracer 900 GT owner here, back to bikes after a few years without... Previously had Yamaha Thundercat (YZF600R) and Aprilia Falco. So the Tracer is a bit more upright than I've been used to. But I'm loving the touring capability of the Tracer's luggage. Previously I've toured using soft luggage with all the hassles of arranging waterproofing that entails. The Tracer has lowered suspension links fitted by the previous owner, although I have the original links, so plan to switch them back when I have time, as it seems that ground clearance is at a premium with standard suspension already...