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Hi Andrew, I feel your pain, I did something similar I ended up putting in a switch bypass, not as nice as the correct way with the ECU, but way cheaper and perfectly effective. Have a look through the thread i linked above, i got some good advice to help diagnose the problem.

I finally got the chance to wire in a switch, apart from being a pain in the arse it was pretty straight forward. Importantly it also works, in the shed anyway. I'm not wrapt in the switch, but it was the best i could find available in a reasonable time frame.

Hi @Buggy Nate, I know enough about relays to be dangerous (hence this thread), but it would be useful to have it effectively behave as stock. Ideally I could leave it switched on, but have it triggered with starter. In the short term I'll make do with a switch so I can get it back on the road, not that the weather at the moment makes me want to ride.

Thanks @skipperT & @dazzler24. I'll contact the ECU repair place and try and get a more definitive answer about likelihood of repairing the ECU, I agree, I can't envisage how re-flashing it would work, I'd expect it to require a physical repair. In the meantime I'll have a go at wiring in a negative switch and see what else I can blow up .

Well timed, I was finally able to get to this today. I followed @skipperT's suggested test, jumping the ground switch wires to the battery negative fired up the lights, high beam switch worked, as did the high beam indicator on the dash. So the LCM would seem to be good, so ECU it is. is there any reason why I can't write a regular switch on the ground back to battery negative, as per the test, as a short term fix?

@dazzler24 you are correct about what I was referring to, thanks for that. I checked the voltage with the 6 pin connector disconnected from the LCU, and yep, I used the DC setting on my multimeter. @skipperT the relay is disconnected from the circuit, all wiring connected is back to stock. Richard

I contacted vectriq, and they indicated they can repair the ecu, 4+ weeks turnaround, it gets sent to the Netherlands for the work. Before I jump, is there anything else i can do to verify that the ECU is the issue? I don't have access to another LCM to swap out to check. Thanks Richard

Well, on the weekend I got a chance to try and get some readings from the 6 pin plug into the LCM. With the bike running, using @dazzler24 post in the linked thread for comparison, taking readings on the two Yellow wires I got the following; Bottom wire - bike on - 5.06v, high beam switch on 13.3v (Dazzler24 had 13v and 0.18v) Top wire - bike on - 13.9v, high beam switch on 13.1v (Dazzler24 had 0.12v and 0.15) I get no high beam indicator lit when the high beam switch is on. Given that my numbers are different to his known working unit, and that the high beam indicator does't work, it looks like it may be the ECU. Are there any other ideas for what I should check? Does anyone have any idea if a shop like this (https://vectriq.com.au/) are likely to be able to repair it?

thanks for the support Skip, I'll stop feeling sorry for myself now and try and get on with it. I've checked all the fuses and connections, and I'm aware that engine needs to be running for high low to work (actually running, and then stopped with the kill switch works to allow switching without the engine continuing to run, helpful in a cold shed with the door closed). I'll try and test the voltages at the LCM this weekend to determine if the ECM or LCM is the issue. I don't get the high beam indicator showing on the dash, so based on the other thread, I'm suspicious that the ECM is the issue.

I've read the thread skipperT linked above, it made my head hurt. I'll re-read it to try and pick up what I need to do, but I'm a bit afraid to start down that path. It was very much a sinking feeling when my lights stopped working. I do have to wonder why Yamaha decided to make the light control so complex, and so fragile. Its not like switching lights on and off is a new thing.

I checked, there is definitely a headlight control unit. Doesn't inspire much confidence in the spare parts department of a major national Yamaha dealer when they deliver advice like that 🙄.

All fuses checked and appear to be ok (sadly). It appears that the headlight control unit may be specific to EU delivered bikes, and not present on the AU spec. I need to get underneath and have a good look when I get home. Sounds like an odd situation but stranger things have happened...

Hi, I've done lots of reading hear, this is my first post. Bike is a 2016 Tracer with 20k km. I have an auxiliary light bar wired using a relay triggered from the negative switching wire to generate a positive signal to swtich a second relay to power the light bar. In Australia it's required to have auxiliary lights switched in line with the high beam, hence the trigger. All was working sweetly until I did a wiring tidy up, and mis-wired the first relay. Lights flashed on and then died. No headlights, no high beam, just the running lights. Notwithstanding my stupidity, is any one able to advise whether sourcing a replacement Headlight control unit will sort the issue? I can't find one locally, but have found one in the UK, for about $200 shipped. Yamaha don't appear to sell it separately, only a complete headlight assembly. Thanks, Richard