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cantin

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Everything posted by cantin

  1. It is finally concluded, ecu, main switch, tank lock, seat lock all installed. Took it for a night ride and it was singing. Encountered some fun things along the way for instance, taking out some bolts that didn't have any attachment, therefor having to drill them out and use some stud removers and some elbow grease. but in the end I feel like I know the majority of the front of this bike now. So it was a learning experience and fun to tinker, but hopefully it stays together and I can enjoy some serious miles this season.
  2. I had a chat just now with someone from carmo.nl they are a flashing company and ecu repairer. They say its 1 model year too new for my bike , 'I shoulda listened better to Skip'. He said he could flash it and make it compatible, but then you also have to pay for the performance flash. He also said for round 300e. He can just repair the old ecu. He also said, when they are used, they are already paired with another immobilized and therefor have to be cleared (made virgin again). So if I find another older ECU he could do that for round 150e. (but the problem is these are difficult to find cheap). I'm interested what you guys think or have to add.
  3. I think I did follow the 'procedure' to try and recode. But without luck. Just throws code 54.
  4. Yea I tried with the red key with nothing near by. Still just get the immobilized reaction. No fuel pump priming just turning over. From what I understood, at least from the service Manual, If the ecu is defective one only needs to replace the ECU, But maybe this assumes a new replacement where it hasn't been paired to an immobilizer yet. Is it maybe ah option that I send it to one of the reprogramming guys to have it coded to the same as my Original ECU?
  5. Well I have returned, after a quick vacation and waiting for my replacement ECU to arrive. I have run into yet another Problem. So I have also returned for guidance. I decided to replace the ECU with a used one. As I figured this was the cheapest option. I found some online contacted the dealer/shop and he sent me one. I installed it and when I went to re register the code key ... I found that the bike won't reregister. At least not from the procedure explained in what I think is the correct service manual. Basically insert red key turn it on and wait 1 second for it to recognize the red key. When I do this, the immobilizer light flashes, and suggests a problem. We get turn over, but no start. Flashing immobilizer light shows a code of 54. I then found that reference in the reference table. Here is says a few reasons for why it gives this code and some Actions. But is there something I can do to make this work? Anyone have thoughts? Below are some pictures. Original 8591A-10. Replacement 8591A-60, Red key from original bike From what the shop I bought the ECU from he said the 10 vs 60 shouldn't be a problem. Does anyone have information that supports this? Also I retried my old ECU and the bike still fires right up.
  6. So we have here my dusty horse all taken apart. Sw motec fog lights are wired into the harness under the dash. They work just fine with the switch on the handle bar, of course only if main switch is on. This can be seen in the image below. I assume this is an okay place to pull energy. It then goes to a switch on the handle bar. The wiring for it first runs to the switch on the handle bar and then 2 outputs one to each of the two the lights. With this source of power, it shouldn't have anything todo with pin 19 right? or is there some sort of overlap maybe inside that ecu that could be the problem? Just double checking. Also discovered a aftermarket Quickshifter........ Which I didn't really realize the bike had, as I bought the bike in France and admittedly my French is not so great. But anyway... I dont think this should also have anything todo with headlight. It looks like the Quickshifter is wired in off of the battery.. Any know if there could be a connection between this and headlight? or is it maybe as skip suggested that the owner before wanted to keep a flashed ecu situation?
  7. Isn't it the problem not that it isn't getting 12 volts, rather that it isn't getting any ground via yellow or yellow black? Yellow black is not just 12v it is a controlling wire I think. 12v and current comes from green I think. But to be honest I don't mind having the bike out of commission while I repair it fully.
  8. Update: ecu is out. From pin 19, I measured continuity to yellow and yellow/black at 6 pin (yellow/black: with high beam selected) that means I shall try and find a second hand ecu to confirm the diagnosis. Unless some on the forum has a 15'16' ecu just lying around of course *** interestingly. My bike is a 2015 that is stated on the registration, but the ECU I took out has the number 2SC-8591A-10 From looking around it seems that this is the ecu number from a Tracer 2016. The plot thickens.*** I guess my question becomes. What can cause this headlight circuit to fail? Is it simply a production problem? Or is there a risk of buying a working one, and then pop goes another ecu? The bike does have some extras added to it as well. A Quickshifter and auxillary fog lights from SW Motec, When I checked wiring for fog lights it seems pretty okay. It looks like it is just plugged into one of the aux attachments behind the dash. There is also a switch on the dash. My questions further are, these shouldn't be causing the headlight malfunction right? because they are on other circuits?******
  9. But I also have the coveted red key. It seems from the Manual that even with the immobilizer I can still just reteach it eh?
  10. Okay, I will pull the tank and test the above. Lets just hope its a bad pin. I have the digital tag on the key so I guess just the ecu is needed. In the case that I need to replace the ecu and reprogram, Is reprogramming something that I can do myself? Or does it require specialized tools?
  11. Well. I jumped ground from yellow/black and black wires going into 6 pin using two needles, and low and behold, the low beam flashed on. I assume that because I read 12v on both yellow and yellow black (depending on HL switch) and no high beam indicator that, in fact, there is no ground being supplied by the ecu?? Does that then, rule out it being caused by a faulty connector between the harness and the ecu and only leave the option of it being a problem within the ecu itself? If I need to exchange the ecu and lock set. How specific is the 2015 euro version? Could I by chance also find another model year? or does that have negative implication?
  12. Thanks man! So I again tested while running and I can confirm that there is 'no headlight high beam symbol' coming up on the dash when running, not in pass or in high beam position. Also there is no low/high beam shining during that test. Also a few questions. To prevent having to dismantle half the bike to take the tank off, is there any way to test the HCU to see if it is the problem? The guy I bought it from did say that he tried a replacement HCU and that didn't solve the problem. He suspected then that it was the headlight, but I have all but discounted what he has said and would rather check myself. Also is there anyway to check for continuity between the yellow and yellow/black wire that come from the ecu? I dont really understand the electronics of this 'input' but I assume it more or less signals the HCU for which output to send, high or low beam. Is there a way with a multimeter to test if we are getting any signal from the ecu? If needed I will take off the tank and do the above mentioned. Or is the diagnostic move now to jump ground to yellow/black and see if we get a low beam? What are the risks involved with this and how do one actually jump the ground without having to open a wiring sheath? TIA Cantin
  13. yea I decided to pull back and do some checks first. But Im not so savvy when it comes to electronics. I have a multimeter at my disposal and a soldering iron. But I am by no means an electronic wizard. Does anyone know what the output of the Light Control Unit should be? Can I test it effectively with a multimeter? @skipperT seems to suggest to check the continuity of the the light switch, so that is my next task I suppose, Im hoping to not have to take off too many more panels and not to have to dig too deep to find where it attaches to wiring harness. Any suggestions are appreciated.
  14. also the fuse 7.5a for headlight was fine, I visually inspected it and it was not popped and also I tested it for continuity and it was fine
  15. @skipperT So, as the stuff before mentioned was taken at the word of the guys in the shop I figured I would check for myself. Going into the LCU, both green wires read more than 12v on the multimeter with engine running (also each were tested to both black ground wires) and about 11.8 with engine off. After that I figured I would take my probs and see what came out of the LCU. I tested it in every combination, motor running motor off, high, low beam and pass. Each side of the LCU left or right reads 0.22Vs....... This differs from what the guy from the shop said. I dont know if that changes the strategy for diagnosis or not. Also how would you suggest I jump the ground? Also how deep in is the connection where the LH switch attaches to the main harness? also should I test for continuity between the harness and the switch lead? or where exactly do you mean I should test for continuity? TIA Cantin
  16. I did find a PDF of the service manual. I looked at the wiring diagram but also some of the troubleshooting. "Faulty Lighting or Signaling System Headlight does not come on -Faulty dimmer/pass switch - Too many electrical accessories - Hard charging -Improperly grounded circuit - Poor contacts (main or light switch) - Faulty headlight assembly"
  17. YIKKESSS! I hope not. No unfortunately I don't. Does anyone have a pdf they can link me? 2015 European Spec Tracer. I'll wait then before ordering the new assembly. Thanks, Cantin
  18. yes. That is correct. The problem is not that we have one side on at a time. It is simply that there is no main beam, high or low beam. Not while Running, idle, off, day or night. From what I understand the light controller unit sends current into the main beam led's. But neither side seems to be responding to current. lets see if anyone else has some insights
  19. @skipperT the light control unit under the assembly. Is what I mean by modulator. Yes also when running there is no low or high beam. There is 12v coming out of each pin on the light control unit, also tried another light control unit and still no success. I have removed the entire assembly now, to have a look. Any suggestions before replacing ? running lights work but everything powered by the supply entering the back of the unit has no response.
  20. Hello all, So admittedly I bought a tracer 900 2015 with a nonworking headlight. Figured I scored a deal enough to replace it and still have a nice bike. In my investigations I have found that the assembly needs to be replaced. But I figured before committing to finding a used one, I would check here if anyone knows some valuable secrets. From what I understand there are two power source, 1 for running lights on the top bar. On my unit these work. Although the low and high beam do not. I checked the modulator and from all for pins coming out of it my voltage meter reads 12vs so I have decided it must be something inside the unit itself. Does anyone have experience with this. Or experience opening the assembly itself? Could it be so simple as connectors dislodging from the circuit inside? Is it reasonable to open the assembly itself? any information will be apprieciated
  21. Hey mate, I am having a similar issue. Headlight is getting 12v after the modulator. But only my running lights are on. No low or high beam. Also with all the switches rapidly switched still nothing. Any suggestions? I am trying to avoid replacing the whole assembly.
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