mjsracing

Have to agree with Wessie. Another less likely possibility is something loose in the external shift linkage.

Bad News: I got a flat in the OEM rear tire. Good News: I was 0.2 mile from home. and made it safely there. Bad News: tire has a very large hole right in the center. Can't be reliably repaired. Good News: OEM has 5300 miles on it and a few wear bars were touching the road. Good News: I had a Pilot Road 4 ready. Good News: Cycle Gear changed my tire, while I waited. Total time from noticing flat on the way home to new tire mounted and back on bike was 1:15. Good News: Love the PR4. Very nice cornering. I ground the right hand feeler on the test ride without trying.

Got to 5000 miles! Took me 101 days

no idea about other countries, but in the UK, the use of flashing lights on motor vehicles is tightly regulated - flashing headlamps, blues and rear reds for emergency vehicles only, flashing orange for warnings such as wide loads, breakdown trucks or road maintenance vehicles and flashing green for medical practitioners. Private vehicles should only have flashing orange lamps for indicators and hazard warning when stationary. They don't "flash" like a turn signal or emergency vehicle, or strobe light. The frequency is much higher. When viewed straight on, you can't se the flicker. When viewed from an angle you can notice something. Has to do with the way the rods and cones are wired into our brains. Some people can't see the flicker at all.

Skene Designs makes the best accessory lighting I've seen as fas as being noticed. The do have PWM (flicker) specifically designed to catch attention especially when moving across the field of view. Amber front lighting below:

Connect the three wires to the existing turn signal/running lights: Ground, Running Light power, Turn signal power. The two wires go to the LED: Ground, Power.

Very little, if any play. 3500 miles so far.

How many miles? Sounds like you may be describing a lower shock (or linkage) bushing play issue. Not too hard to press out the old bearing and press in a new one, if you like wrenching on your bike. Otherwise, need to get a competent mechanic to address it. Once a suspension bearing starts to go, it usually completely fails (disintegrates) very quickly. If left unaddressed, you could damage your shock, link, or swing arm. Probably more of a cost issue than a safety issue, if not racing. Fix it now.

My 2 cents, ANY oil that is JASO MA certified for wet clutch, with proper viscosity, is fine. Period.

I totally gave up on the stock windscreen and finally dramatically shortened it for summer use. I tried a lot with the stock screen. Dropped 5". large spacers at top then at bottom to change angle. Installed the CalSci. Awesome quit still air. To hot for 105F riding. I crudely hacked off the stock windscreen just below the speedo cluster. Not very pretty. Very comfortable riding in 90-105F so far with full gear. The FJ-09 does not seem to heat the rider. My 200cc dirt bike is hotter to ride than the FJ. Very satisfied with the cut stock windscreen for summer and the CalSci windscreen for cold temperatures below 80F. I have a MadStad screen for winter use on my 690. Love it!

Yamaha filter is black, $13 online, and readily available at your local Yamaha dealer.

I think there is a bit of confusion about the turn signal flash function with these LED conspicuity lights. The light assemblies have 2 wires, + and ground. If you desire them to flash with you turn signals, you will need either: a control box (as illustrated in the instructions but NOT included in my kit) homebrew control circuit. The light assemblies do not have the control box built in. Control of the LED's is more complicated than the front turn signals / running lights as they have 3 wires, + for running, + for turn, and ground. When the turn signals are flashing, the power is applied then removed from the + turn lead by the flasher relay. A functional spec for the control box or circuit is as follows: [span] If power on, light the LED [/span][span] When the turn signal power comes on, leave the LED illuminated until the turn signal turns off. [span] Once the turn signal goes off, extinguish the LED. [span] If the power is on, and the turn signal power has not been on for approximately 4 seconds[/span] re-illuminate the LED This is how the halo lights in a lot of cars operate. Should be able to source the control box somewhere. [/span] [/span]

Great 150 mile loop with 5 others.

Perhaps it is possible to increase the preload on the steering bearings (by "tightening" the nut) such that there is noticeable stiction (static friction) with no concern for bearing or race damage? Clearly too much preload on the bearings is not good.

xpress, What state were you in when a cop stopped you because your tail light was too bright? Was the officer a city, county, state, or federal officer? You may wish to contact the manufacturer to see if its possible to reprogram the tail light. I love my one Off Fab tidy tail, stock tail light and turn signals with P3 conspicuity light on the sides of the license plate. Any setup with 3 spaced lights provides a triangle of light that more easily catches a follower's attention.

Yes. All recent photos in the highest position. Tested in the lowest position a couple of times, but highest is much quieter and little cooling airflow difference for me.

Of course! More photos in a few minutes. I have a bit of carpool duty, then I'll post some up. This CalSci screen is the winner for me! Quiet enough for no earplugs. REALLY calm (still) air on my body. Not much air on my helmet. In rain or temperatures below 30C, this is what I plant to ride with. In the really hot, I plan to ride with my stock screen, sawed off at the top of the instruments, for a lot of airflow. Like I said we are the same height. I have relatively short legs 30in (76cm) so a long torso. This is a very nice windscreen for me.

Also, increasing the rear preload may help to stabilize at speed.

I just installed the large calsci touring screen. I'm 187 cm also. In the highest position, there is a lot of still air and greatly reduced wind noise. If i duck down below the screen, pretty much no noise. In the lowest position, i get a bit more flow on my helmet but it remains quiet. Much improved over the stock in eiher position. No bufeting. and very much quieter. Only down side may be that it is too still now and a bit warmer as a result. Yesterday was 91F (33C) here. I'm going to cut my stock sceen very low to minic no screen.

My wife's family is from Newnan. Cool little town, Grats on the new bike @beberle.

If you are really interested, you may want to read about resonance and damping. There is the classic video that demonstrates a catastrophic under damped resonance. My pet peeve, there is no en in damping or damper. e.g. damping and damper NOT dampening and dampener.

While I was removing the ECU... I took a couple of photos of the grip heater electrical connectors.

I would be careful about wearing boots that are not designed for motorcycle use. They will not be CE rated so the level of protection is unknown. For me, the two most important factors in selecting riding boots are 1) protection and 2) all day riding comfort including wet conditions. You only need protection if you crash. I don't ride in non CE rated boots. Period.

Here is my install of these lights. http://fj-09.org/post/11295

Shoei RF-1200 http://images0.revzilla.com/product_images/0070/3733/shoei_rf1200_helmet_solid_detail.jpg