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About pattonme

  • Birthday 01/12/1973

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  1. I don't ship large assemblies overseas. Not only have I lost a disturbing number of the upgrade kits to the Royal Mail, but the freight for a ready-to-install cartridge is expensive! You'll have to read about the details of the fork mods on my forum board but the 10 second summary is I can send you replacement valve assemblies (same idea as what K-Tech/RaceTech sells) for you/shop to install be it fixing one leg or both. stock suspension is never the answer. It's a choice of fresh turd vs week old turd. The one may not smell as bad as the other but you still don't want to taste them. The GT has (AFAIK) the same forks as the 2017+ FZ09 when they switched from 1 active+1 dead leg to both legs active but only at the mid-valve.
  2. 160-180lb. you can get away with 200lb but you'll definitely appreciate it more once it's resprung.
  3. speaking of Wilbers, 10% off till the end of the month and I can offer another 10% off for the denizens of this forum who live in USA. IMO the best shock of the bunch is the Nitron NTR1/2 followed closely by the K-Tech Razor lineup. The Ohlins is no slouch but the performance/$$ isn't as good. The GT forks are 'livable' once you adjust springs and throw in a different oil. but the shock is the first thing to fix IMO. The forks can be fixed for relatively 'small' money if you provide your own labor.
  4. the ones I have bought the 'nut' is pressed into the metal as a shape, not riveted on after the fact. but I come back to my earlier point. If you can't get it off with a solid grip with one hand or two it's on TOO TIGHT. Period. Never use mechanical advantage during install.
  5. I had a sudden and very brief surge then flame out while doing close-quarters battle during rush-hour at 70mph. Nothing seemingly wrong after the fact. But it might have been due to a loose ground wire. Revisit the major junctions and remove and inspect the battery connections and as a test, disconnect and manually short the side-stand switch and ride the bike that way for several days/weeks. It appears that with recent bikes, if the bike is in gear and you put the side stand down the ECU has been programmed to kill the engine. My older bikes did no such thing. It might be a Euro regulation that mandates this.
  6. ahh, I didn't realize Terry was sitting on product. Sorry for the out of date information. Last I talked to him he was busy with a real job and was "out" of doing onsie-twosie work.
  7. Ohlins ships every FZ/FJ shock with the 95N/mm spring. Your local guy switches it out if he remembers/you insist.
  8. how close to the US border are you? There are mail-drops that will hold a package for pickup and you can walk it back across the border. I'm pretty sure there is a K-Tech-Canada though... He's not doing them anymore unless in bulk (like 5 units) I've been meaning to send a batch of ZX6 shocks to him to redo... The performance is close enough. Get the right spring! The downside of the Ohlins is no length adjustment. Big UPside considering your location is easy access to Service department. Not an option. especially across the border! I can ship you ready-to-drop-in upgraded stock cartridges which you can install yourself (depending how handy you are) or a local shop. Stoltec's piston kit is also available. I have an RT kit sitting on the shelf FWIW. While the RT kit is probably the cheapest option it's the less good option IMO. Depending where you land in the weight class the FJ runs one step higher spring rate.
  9. if it's so tight you need to use the nut, it's on too tight.
  10. make sure to put the chain inside suitable plastic sheathing so you don't scratch and ding the hell out of your wheels every time you secure it. Your local hardware store has the stuff.
  11. ride it cross-country? (kidding) https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2015-Yamaha-FJ-09-5003810192
  12. DO NOT USE that oil!!! Indicated CST is at 100C, not 40c. see chart. https://sites.google.com/site/forksbymatt/resources/oil-list You generally want a high HVI oil in the 11-13cSt@40 for rear shocks use.
  13. just remove the pads from your calipers and you can control for one of those factors. if you're crashing your forks your ziptie will be down to about 10mm of stanchion showing. There is an oil lock which slows the fork down dramatically for the last 20mm and the bumper is rubber'ish so it still shouldn't make a sound.
  14. in a nod to the chap that just hung up his S1000RR for the FJ/GT because of pains in the neck, just think what you're giving up! http://www.motorcycledaily.com/2018/07/242-mph-on-bmw-s1000-rr-power/ I dare say the FJ's wobble is because of the hand-guards, the 2 extra brake rotors and un-aerodynamic calipers, and lack of enclosed tail-section air-streaming. *kidding* I recently rode a '16 Duc Monster 1200S without it's steering damper. It didn't headshake as such (I wasn't going over 80 either) but the feedback from the wheel was bizarre - felt like it was skimming the road and just on the edge of waggle while straight up. Chuck it into a corner like an on/off ramp though and it was far more communicative and stable. The rake 24.3d and trail 93mm is probably the major culprit here. The Penigalli uses 100mm and the BMW S1000 similarly. The 2017 made both rake and trail smaller. wow...