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  1. Ok! There are lots of guides for this around, however, I find most are actually for an MT09, or older FJ09. The actual procedure for syncing the throttle bodies is the same, but how to get to your throttle bodies varies. In fact, the actual syncing of your throttle bodies is trivially easy, but the job is a fair bit of work because of how much there is to tear down to get to them. So; here's my guide to doing that on the (in this case, 2019) Tracer 900 GT! Getting Started: You'll only need minimal tools here, 4mm and 5mm allen keys, a small flathead screwdriver, a pair of needle nosed pliers, and a manometer (I strongly recommend the Morgan Carbtune Pro from here: Morgan Carbtune - carburetor synchronizer for balancing motorcycle carbs Carbtune motorcycle carburetor synchronizers;polycarbonate tool... Put the bike on the centerstand, and remove the seat. No pictures here, because lazy. It's a bit easier to manhandle the tank around if it's not full of gas, too, but it's not the end of the world if it's mostly full. Be careful of being RIGHT full, though, because you're going to be disconnecting the overflow, and if tipped too much it may leak out the overflow outlet. Mine was probably 90% full because I'm impulsive and dumb, and it wasn't a problem at all. Remove the side panels. Each has three weird little Ikea Furniture Style Cam Screw Thingies. Two on the front, one on the back. Release the screws, pull the top of the panel outwards to release the plastic pushpin inside, and then pull the panel down to unhook it from the tab on the bottom. Disconnect the indicator lead, and that's it. Obviously, there's two of these panels Remove top tank trim: This plastic bit has two screws in the middle, and three of those stupid bodywork pins on each side. Remove the screws, and use your 4mm allen driver or some other poky tool to push the center part of the pin in to release it, then you should be able to pull them right out. Once all six pins and the two screws are out, you can just pop it off the tank cowlings. Remove tank side cowlings: Note that the "scoop" and the lower inside panel are removed as a single unit. Remove the two screws on top of the tank, and (on each inside panel) two screws, one regular bodywork pin on the front (just under the headlight) and one unique "phillips head" bodywork pin near the bottom. This last is removed via a JIS screwdriver (or phillips, I guess), turning about a quarter turn counterclockwise and allowing the head to pop up. Then it's pried off like the other bodywork pins. It's reinstalled with a screwdriver, too, vs. the normal body pin method of popping the inner tab out. Anyways, feed the signal indicator lead back through it's hole, and the whole inside panel/tank scoop unit will come off. To be continued!
  2. I have a Tracer 900GT which I bought about 18 month ago. Late last year, on a 1500 mile trip to and around Scotland, the braking performance gradually deteriorated. Gone was the sharp, instant braking achieved with just one or two fingers. I found myself using my whole hand to brake. It got to the point where I didn't feel happy riding in traffic at any speed. Gone was the sharp, instant braking achieved with just one or two fingers. The lever didn't feel particularly spongy or have excessive travel but it needed much more force than before. The ultimate braking force was seriously compromised and stopping distance was way more than it had been. I called the dealer and explained the problem. A week later they had the bike in their workshop on a rolling road and ran their diagnostics. The mechanic came out and said he couldn't find a problem and said that the brakes seemed OK to him. I was invited into the workshop where he re-ran the diagnostics including the ABS system test so that I could see for myself that everything was OK. I left the shop feeling unhappy that they hadn't found or fixed the problem. However as soon as I started to ride home I could feel that the brakes were back to normal. They had obviously done something that had fixed the problem, even if they didn't know it. Unfortunately, after a few hundred miles of riding, the brakes began to deteriorated again and they are now as bad as they ever were. Has anyone else had or heard of this problem? Is it possible that the ABS is reducing brake performance all the time, not just during extreme braking?