Spark plug replacement & Throttle body sync advise

[skipperT]

1 hour ago, petshark said:

Thank you, I did this today and it went fine. Didn't see a lower radiator bolt though? It's more like a hinge on mine so I just tipped it forward. I did take it apart twice because I couldn't believe that this was how it is supposed to be bolted back together (the offset on the left one) but it is also like that in the manual diagram. If anyone can confirm I can sleep easy.

 

The throttle body sync seemed impossible at first as there was a lot of stuff in the way of the left vacuum plug. Access was blocked from all sides. This was not in @Wintersdark 's tutorial or any of the video's that I watched.  I tried to get those small hoses off but they seemed glued on so I gave up, not wanting to risk tearing them. I finally unhooked the fuel line and that metal bracket instead and somehow managed to get the plug off and the hose on, still blind but at least with the space to just get some needle-nosed pliers in there. I used a size 8 spanner to get the plug back on.

 

In the LH picture (RH mount) I think the spacer may be on the wrong side of the grommet? 
If I’m wrong (quite possibly, going from memory) then the radiator mounts are tweaked just a bit and don’t worry about it. 
 

-S

[mikerbiker]

On 6/4/2021 at 5:16 PM, skipperT said:

Didn't see a lower radiator bolt though? It's more like a hinge on mine so I just tipped it forward. I did take it apart twice because I couldn't believe that this was how it is supposed to be bolted back together (the offset on the left one) but it is also like that in the manual diagram. If anyone can confirm I can sleep easy.

That is the correct setup you show.  By lower bolt I meant the one that holds the radiator stay shown here.

 

[PhotoAl]

On 5/18/2021 at 2:14 PM, keithu said:

Regarding the spark plugs... unbolt the radiator and push it forward, or also disconnect the radiator hoses and remove it completely. Might as well do a coolant flush, most people don't perform that task often enough. 

Now that the radiator is out of the way you have excellent access to the sparkplugs from the front, no special extensions or U-joints needed. 

Also, and this may be an unpopular opinion: If the manufacturer recommends a torque value for a fastener, I will use a torque wrench if possible and tighten to that spec in most cases. I used to be an aircraft mechanic where every single fastener had a torque spec, and the QA guy looked over your shoulder while you listened for the click. I agree that some of the specs from Yamaha seem questionable, and no offense meant to anyone here, but if the choice is between the factory spec or sage advice from the Internet, I'm usually going with the factory spec.   

Is there any difficulty in refilling the radiator?  I ask because my previous bike had to be vacuum filled due to complex shapes and passages otherwise would get air pockets.

Someone, don't know who, filled the radiator on my previous bike (not a Yamaha) with water and over a 5,000 mile trip it boiled off enough to have a significant air pocket at the top of the radiator - enough that the cooling fan couldn't keep it cool if stopped in traffic but forward motion did!  A good cooling system when properly maintained.  Neither I nor the previous owner had anyone but one dealer work on it.  I think it was a screw up by an inexperienced tech who drained it then realized wasn't supposed to be changed at that service so just dumped water in it.  If you have a pocket of air at the top of a radiator it will not suck in coolant from the coolant reservoir tank.

I'm at 11,000 miles but only 11 months old - my bike that is. 

[betoney]

1 hour ago, PhotoAl said:

Is there any difficulty in refilling the radiator?  I ask because my previous bike had to be vacuum filled due to complex shapes and passages otherwise would get air pockets.

Put the bike on the side stand and slowly fill the radiator, run the motor and let the coolant circulate.  With the bike on the side stand the fill neck is the highest part of the cooling system and any air bubbles should rise to the top.

[PhotoAl]

OK, so did mine the morning - just unfastened the top of the radiator and tilted it forward.  Ummm the center plug is covered by "that stuff that everyone takes off" air injection or something like that.  Since was syncing throttle bodies I took tank and airbag off.  Wound up pulling plugs out from top but radiator forward made it easier particularly on the one to the riders left.  I used a spark plug socket and a 3" extension all 3/8" drive.  Could just barely fit a 3/8" ratchet in there.  It was easy to loosen so went to a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter on top of the 3" extension and my Wera 1/4" ratchet.  Worked very nicely and I was able to get enough torque for the plugs with the ratchet - they only need 9.7 foot pounds which is not much.

[Xstoff]

Quick question... So, I know it may depends on how you ride the bike, but was there a big deviation from spec of the throttle body sync at 8k miles?

On 8/18/2021 at 8:50 PM, betoney said:

Put the bike on the side stand and slowly fill the radiator, run the motor and let the coolant circulate.  With the bike on the side stand the fill neck is the highest part of the cooling system and any air bubbles should rise to the top.

By the way, would you run the engine and let the coolant circulate with the radiator cap off?

When I did it, I put the radiator cap on before running the engine.

[CRFan250]

43 minutes ago, Xstoff said:

Quick question... So, I know it may depends on how you ride the bike, but was there a big deviation from spec of the throttle body sync at 8k miles?

By the way, would you run the engine and let the coolant circulate with the radiator cap off?

When I did it, I put the radiator cap on before running the engine.

Yes run it with the cap off until the Thermostat opens...you will know because the coolant will start circulating and the level will drop. Keep filing until it stabilizes and put the cap back on.

[betoney]

2 hours ago, Xstoff said:

By the way, would you run the engine and let the coolant circulate with the radiator cap off?

When I did it, I put the radiator cap on before running the engine.

 

1 hour ago, CRFan250 said:

Yes run it with the cap off until the Thermostat opens...you will know because the coolant will start circulating and the level will drop. Keep filing until it stabilizes and put the cap back on.

Yes, like @CRFan250 stated, I do it with the cap removed so I can watch the coolant level. 

[Xstoff]

1 hour ago, betoney said:

 

Yes, like @CRFan250 stated, I do it with the cap removed so I can watch the coolant level. 

 

2 hours ago, CRFan250 said:

Yes run it with the cap off until the Thermostat opens...you will know because the coolant will start circulating and the level will drop. Keep filing until it stabilizes and put the cap back on.

Thanks! Will do next time! Shall I expect some coolant geyser situation?

Edited October 4, 2021 by Xstoff

[2and3cylinders]

I bought BOTH the UView 550000 Airlift AND their 560000 Combustion tester kit years ago for under $140 (including extra test fluid), and they've paid for themselves in saved time, ease of use and effectiveness 10 times over.  You do need an air compressor putting out a minimum of 80 psi and 4.5 cfm to get the Airlift to work the best.

Nuff said!

[betoney]

1 hour ago, Xstoff said:

 

Thanks! Will do next time! Shall I expect some coolant geyser situation?

I never have but keep an eye on it.