New chain, sprockets and knowledge gained.

[hawk]

hey guys what are y'all using to crimp the front sprocket nut?

[peteinpa]

Hammer and punch.

[dazzler24]

 

18 hours ago, hawk said:

hey guys what are y'all using to crimp the front sprocket nut?

You can even use an old flat blade screwdriver instead of a punch at a pinch.  Still need the hammer of course. The crimping metal is not that hard so you won't have too much (any) trouble.

[hawk]

Thanks guys. Hammer and punch did the trick.

On to the next issue - 100km on new chain etc and I can only get partial throw on my clutch. 

[Yamajank]

So I've had another run in with my local shop. I'll spare your the horror story but they don't understand the difference between 12mm and 40mm even when I explicitly mention what the spec is supposed to be. Here's my more relevant question. Did they possibly even do a poor job with the chain itself?  It seems like where they made the connection the link is bound up. 

[kilo3]

Somewhere someone with a perpencity for clip master links is saving this photo.

[Yamajank]

20 minutes ago, Yamajank said:

So I've had another run in with my local shop. I'll spare your the horror story but they don't understand the difference between 12mm and 40mm even when I explicitly mention what the spec is supposed to be. Here's my more relevant question. Did they possibly even do a poor job with the chain itself?  It seems like where they made the connection the link is bound up. 

Can it be fixed or do I need to replace?

[hawk]

22 minutes ago, Yamajank said:

Can it be fixed or do I need to replace?

I'd replace that link but I'm no expert

[PhotoAl]

1 hour ago, kilo3 said:

Somewhere someone with a perpencity for clip master links is saving this photo.

OK, you really made me laugh!  I used a clip master link only because that is what I had and after my 6,200 mile trip clip is gone!

@Yamajank if the master link is tight the O-rings are compressed and will wear out quicker.  The flairs don't look bad IMO.  HOWEVER, the plates should be he same distance apart as the other links (probably are not if it is tight).  I measured mine with a micrometer when installing my new chain a month ago.  The plate on my master link are exactly the same as the other links.  As for the flair of the pins the chain manufactures have a spec and I would check to see that they are not too tight.

If it were my bike I'd replace it.  Maybe not immediately but sometime in the near future.  Not hard to do.  By a chain tool from Cycle Gear, use a zip tie to hold links together.  With chain tool punch out the flared rivets remove master link, put new master link in place using the supplied O-rings and grease, press plates together making sure to get them proper distance apart and then flair rivets.  On the assemble part I would probably stop a couple of times to take measurements to not get to tight or too much flair.

[TomTracer]

On 8/3/2021 at 8:21 PM, PhotoAl said:

Looking at a new rear sprocket and like the Superlight but cannot find in a 45 tooth.  Thinking of going to 44 but keeping OEM size front sprocket.  Wondering how much of a change it will make, know it will drop the RPMs at speed a little but that really isn't an issue.  More concerned about low speed operation.  On my trips I stay in campgrounds with gravel roads and low speed limits (like 7 mph) due to lots of kids around.  Other choice is a 47.  

Only at 11,000 miles and could re-use the rear as I cannot see any wear on it but want to go new all around.

It has been a challenge getting a chain and sprockets.  Hard to find in proper size, wound up getting a 120 link non gold DID chain from my buds at Cycle Gear.  

Years ago I ran a SuperSprox steel and aluminum sprocket but wasn't awed by it.  The anodizing faded and it seemed to wear more than the OEM.

I have never had reduced ram's affect my low speed travel. If I need to downshift, I do it. We fret sonetimes about non-issues.

[2and3cylinders]

3 hours ago, Yamajank said:

So I've had another run in with my local shop. I'll spare your the horror story but they don't understand the difference between 12mm and 40mm even when I explicitly mention what the spec is supposed to be. Here's my more relevant question. Did they possibly even do a poor job with the chain itself?  It seems like where they made the connection the link is bound up. 

Definitely it should be replaced.  I  grind flush the flared pins then use an ancient pin pusher (chain breaker) rather then the piece that comes in either of my Motion Pro chain replacement tool kits.  You can find copies of the MP tools on fleabay but I don't know how good they are.  The PBR looks like it's doubled in price since I bought mine.

https://ktmtwins.com/products/motion-pro-chain-rivet-tool-kit?gclid=CjwKCAjw4qCKBhAVEiwAkTYsPDd0iqfpFDiWqu38yw3x6QaZiraGTzakQQa7XPOtkD24z8xIMi3jOxoC5P4QAvD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0470-Chain-Breaker/dp/B0050HJNW4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw4qCKBhAVEiwAkTYsPLheCrkVk-spnjM1d0-vp3xG2hnrJZ5uPDfImZkbDDcjkQWc3xTbChoCQEgQAvD_BwE&hvadid=177537163142&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9021731&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=3747948162778082936&hvtargid=kwd-39898905877&hydadcr=6619_9585117&keywords=motion+pro+pbr+chain+tool&qid=1632187951&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A19MEPEJTXP6V9&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFFQ0NORTZNRzNRSjEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwOTU4MDExMkVKUkZFM0NXRFhDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NjY1MzZYME4xS0sxTDA0Q1Amd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302785360744?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1mQ0ZwgW0QMK2OlBzkvOwaA30&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=302785360744&targetid=1262375642056&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9021731&poi=&campaignid=12875707346&mkgroupid=127864788648&rlsatarget=pla-1262375642056&abcId=9300535&merchantid=101743222&gclid=CjwKCAjw4qCKBhAVEiwAkTYsPPqBQoAPjItKyCB-r8PZG5uCkufre_hywb1SpgHYEHIFDdbF4HeTjBoCCsYQAvD_BwE

 

[Bill H]

On 8/4/2021 at 6:46 AM, 2and3cylinders said:

For my last 2 replacements I went 520 DID ZVMX GOLD with Sprocket Center Superlite 16 / 47 and LIKE EM!!

Maybe I could have reused the 1st set's sprockets and will give both 520 sets a critical eye before buying the next chain.

I like where going 2 up on the rear puts the RPMs at every speed including at takeoffs and even at 75 mph.  Mileage hasn't suffered much and haven't noticed and added noise without the front damper.

My 15 CP3 likes the higher revs along with the XSR slip/assist clutch, especially in the twisties.

Waiting for rush hour to die down then going to put more wear on all components...

Question ?,,did going up that ratio make it anymore say jerky in 1st ?,,can you just change the rear ?or is that counter productive ?,, My 2020 has weak pull away speed at higher MPH  ,,need to dump it down a couple gears for any good pull 

[betoney]

3 hours ago, Bill H said:

Question ?,,did going up that ratio make it anymore say jerky in 1st ?,,can you just change the rear ?or is that counter productive ?,, My 2020 has weak pull away speed at higher MPH  ,,need to dump it down a couple gears for any good pull 

The 16/47 ratio makes the motor a bit more responsive with quicker acceleration without feeling too hyper.  The operating rpm is about 500 higher than stock on the highway, plenty of pull when operating in the correct rpm range.  Adding 2 more teeth on the rear requires a 2 tooth longer chain.

[Bill H]

35 minutes ago, betoney said:

The 16/47 ratio makes the motor a bit more responsive with quicker acceleration without feeling too hyper.  The operating rpm is about 500 higher than stock on the highway, plenty of pull when operating in the correct rpm range.  Adding 2 more teeth on the rear requires a 2 tooth longer chain.

Thats good to know ,,Thanks 

[2and3cylinders]

12 hours ago, betoney said:

The 16/47 ratio makes the motor a bit more responsive with quicker acceleration without feeling too hyper.  The operating rpm is about 500 higher than stock on the highway, plenty of pull when operating in the correct rpm range.  Adding 2 more teeth on the rear requires a 2 tooth longer chain.

B-Man,

If you want to maintain close to the stock wheel base then yes adding 2 links is required.  However, I found doing so actually extends the wheel base about 12 mm+ than stock, so when the chain wears ("stretches") the chain adjusters run out of room before the chain needs replacement.

Consequently, I have stayed with the OEM # of chain links and compensated for the shorter wheel base by lowering the rear ride height (I have a Razor R) slightly to slow down turn-in and maintain high speed stability to near stock on my also fastest red 15 with its shorter swing arm than years 18 and on.  My jury is still out as to whether raising the forks improves stability by increasing front weight bias, or instead actually causes a bit of head shake at high speeds (+80 mph) due to reducing the rake and trail; especially with a larger screen and loaded top case.