Supporting Member betoney Posted March 3, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted March 3, 2022 17 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said: B-Man, If you want to maintain close to the stock wheel base then yes adding 2 links is required. However, I found doing so actually extends the wheel base about 12 mm+ than stock, so when the chain wears ("stretches") the chain adjusters run out of room before the chain needs replacement. Consequently, I have stayed with the OEM # of chain links and compensated for the shorter wheel base by lowering the rear ride height (I have a Razor R) slightly to slow down turn-in and maintain high speed stability to near stock on my also fastest red 15 with its shorter swing arm than years 18 and on. My jury is still out as to whether raising the forks improves stability by increasing front weight bias, or instead actually causes a bit of head shake at high speeds (+80 mph) due to reducing the rake and trail; especially with a larger screen and loaded top case. I have my Penske set up with a few millimeters more ride height and the forks raised 5-6mm in the clamps. Turn in feels very neutral to me and I have never experienced head shake but I also don't have a large screen or a top box. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted March 3, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted March 3, 2022 Yep yup yep... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill H Posted June 5, 2022 Share Posted June 5, 2022 On 8/4/2021 at 6:46 AM, 2and3cylinders said: For my last 2 replacements I went 520 DID ZVMX GOLD with Sprocket Center Superlite 16 / 47 and LIKE EM!! Maybe I could have reused the 1st set's sprockets and will give both 520 sets a critical eye before buying the next chain. I like where going 2 up on the rear puts the RPMs at every speed including at takeoffs and even at 75 mph. Mileage hasn't suffered much and haven't noticed and added noise without the front damper. My 15 CP3 likes the higher revs along with the XSR slip/assist clutch, especially in the twisties. Waiting for rush hour to die down then going to put more wear on all components... Ok im not the smartest guy and this may be a dumb question but would simply downshifting a gear with stock sprocket be the same as a larger sprocket ? And is it safe to assume lower gear 1st 2and the bike will be noticeably snappier at lower rpms, I would love to be able to lift the front off the ground in 3rd gear but no matter how hard I try its almost impossible ,,would a taller rear sprocket help? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted June 6, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted June 6, 2022 The higher the sprocket ratio the lower the felt "gearing". Stock 45 / 16 = 2.8125 47 / 16 = 2.9375 45 / 15 = 3.000 (Easiest but chain wears slightly faster the smaller CS sprocket) 47 / 15 = 3.1333 (overly radical IMO) One asylum member had issues with his OE CC going to one of the lower combos... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manimal Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 I recently did the a chain/sprocket change (@ about 20K miles) and thought I would append dazzler24's posting. Purchased: 1)Complete kit from SprocketCenter.com; D.I.D. 525 VO, 47/16 (damper). The nice part about purchasing the kit is the chain come is the correct length for your bike and sprocket combo (no cutting required). 2) D.I.D. KM500R chain cutter/link swage and front sprocket nut from Chaparral Motorsports. 3) 30mm socket from local Auto Zone. Watched these 2 instructional vids: https://youtu.be/wuE3qoFpWWQ, https://youtu.be/6Yj4sKsguvU. The first is instruction on using the DID cutter, the other is more general, but very detailed. Both are worth while. The instructor in the DID vid states 'you do not need to put a lot of force' into it. I found the force required to be fairly substantial (but I am a 60ish skinny pencil-neck). I think the advantage of this tool is you cannot 'overswage' because you 'bottom out' on tool/link hardpoints. Lessons: 1) The spline interface for the front sprocket is very tight. I kept rotating the sprocket until the spline engaged, then it goes on fairly easy. 2) I was unable to tighten the rear sprocket nuts to OEM torque spec. At one point, it felt like one of the studs was rotating. I pulled the drive hub, looked at the backside of the studs and all looked OK. Replaced the drive hub, 'gingerly' loosened the nuts and retightened, creeping up to 50Nm (not the OEM 80Nm). I'll be monitoring for awhile (checking torque). 3)I checked the swaged rivet head diameters against the OEM requirement of 5.5 - 5.8mm and master link width against that of other links in the chain (don't recall the numbers, but they were pretty close +/- 1mm or less). 4) Set chain slack to about 25mm. I previously followed the OEM spec of 5 - 15mm, but I believe this may have accelerated wear of the original chain. Epilog: Haven't ridden at the time of publication. I don't know what a shop would charge for this work, but I spent about $320 for parts and tools. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted March 13, 2023 Premium Member Share Posted March 13, 2023 I've run a 520 chains for decades, even on my VTR which is spec'd for a 530, so go with the best offered for comparable longevity. I got punky on my last chain replacement. I saw the Red EK lightened chain and said why not for once! I get very fastidious when I clean. Cleanliness makes it light and faster 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomTracer Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 How much faster is your already fast red bike with the red link plates? Frightening fast I bet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted March 13, 2023 Premium Member Share Posted March 13, 2023 1 hour ago, TomTracer said: How much faster is your already fast red bike with the red link plates? Frightening fast I bet. Not with my lard ass on it. 😞 I REALLY need to loose 18#s!!! I had to buy cheap gear last season because I couldn't fit into my good gear! but not more than 20#s or some of my newest best gear will be too loose. ya can't win for loosing Seriously Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted February 16 Premium Member Share Posted February 16 On 3/2/2022 at 8:20 PM, betoney said: The 16/47 ratio makes the motor a bit more responsive with quicker acceleration without feeling too hyper. The operating rpm is about 500 higher than stock on the highway, plenty of pull when operating in the correct rpm range. Adding 2 more teeth on the rear requires a 2 tooth longer chain. Brian What the heck is the stock # of links again I guess I'll have to look in my shop manual cuz the owners manual pdf in my phone doesn't give it?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted February 16 Supporting Member Share Posted February 16 1 hour ago, 2and3cylinders said: Brian What the heck is the stock # of links again With stock 16/45 gearing, the FJ09 chain length is 110 links. 1 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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