Need New (Used) Engine, XSR? FZ?, FJ09.

[redfjniner]

Still looking for an engine, can't find locals to do the head and dealer is unreasonable.  Found a engine  with minor damage to external head bolt/block that appears as it would still work fine.  Here is the location:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/284526622433?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818142055%26meid%3D67a6fb138472490b8abd11bf1effcbe4%26pid%3D101113%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D274964743689%26itm%3D284526622433%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb%26brand%3DYamaha&_trksid=p2563228.c101113.m2108

I know it is a gamble, but what I can see in the photos and the sellers description, it appears to be a pretty good deal, for one reason, it includes shipping which usually runs $250 more, and that the price most likely reflects the damage, which appears to be acceptable and not effecting the actual structure and running of the engine. 

For me, it would appear that dropping the partially disassembled engine and inserting another would be the easiest and least amount of work.  Maybe you experts could chime in on that.  BTW, I did help a fellow FJR owner install a replacement engine in his bike, and that seamed pretty straight forward.  Let me know what you think.  TIA

[Suzukiguy]

Haven't checked, but you might want to contact Greens Motorcycle Salvage in Millwood, KY. They may have an engine. Call Orville at 270-879-8979. All it costs is a phone call to find out! Tell him Ron in Lexington sent you, we have been friends for about 45 years!

[PhotoAl]

Depends on the rest of the engine.  I'm thinking if you can locate a low mileage engine then replace the engine.  Can't say as to which ones will work though.  If the head is still on do a compression and leak down test on the other cylinders.  Can give you an idea of the overall condition of the cylinders and rings.  I'm thinking it is lowish miles for valve problems but you do have a lot of miles on the bottom end and the tranny.  Don't know the history of a used engine but it has fewer miles.  If the compression and cams are the same in the new engine and it bolts up don't know why it wouldn't work.

WOW $3,000 seems like a lot for a new head and valves.  Plenty of folks around that can rebuild a head.  I might suggest stepping back and taking a total look over the bike and what you want to do with it.  Inventory what needs to be done to keep it serviceable for say another 50,000 miles.  Head bearings, seals, water pum, oil pump wheel bearings brake calipers etc.  You might be able to get a used low mileage FJ09 that would be a better economical choice.  

[skipperT]

@redfjniner looks to be a reasonable deal, my only concern is what did the LH side of the bike look like? All pictures show the RH side of the engine, with the exception of that one shot which shows the (superficial) damage to the head bolt lower threads.

I’d like to know what caused that damage. If the bolt is still torqued, no big deal. But if someone had the head off that engine and blew the threads out of the bottom because of improper installation technique (ie not clearing the oil from the threaded cavity before installing a bolt, or installing the wrong length bolt) then that would concern me. 

if the damage happened during motor removal or during the crash (again, no shots of the LH side of bike) then you could surely swap over the covers from your engine.

Easier engine to R&R than a FJR. (Haven’t -actually pulled a CP3 but done lots of FJR’s.) you’ll need a special socket for one of the engine mount spacers.

-Skip

[redfjniner]

2 hours ago, skipperT said:

@redfjniner looks to be a reasonable deal, my only concern is what did the LH side of the bike look like? All pictures show the RH side of the engine, with the exception of that one shot which shows the (superficial) damage to the head bolt lower threads.

I’d like to know what caused that damage. If the bolt is still torqued, no big deal. But if someone had the head off that engine and blew the threads out of the bottom because of improper installation technique (ie not clearing the oil from the threaded cavity before installing a bolt, or installing the wrong length bolt) then that would concern me. 

if the damage happened during motor removal or during the crash (again, no shots of the LH side of bike) then you could surely swap over the covers from your engine.

Easier engine to R&R than a FJR. (Haven’t -actually pulled a CP3 but done lots of FJR’s.) you’ll need a special socket for one of the engine mount spacers.

-Skip

Knowing that the main bolts that hold the head on are actually inside and these two on the exterior appear to be there to make sure the gasket doesn't leak out the side.  I might ask for a picture of the left side and ask how the bottom of that bolt tap blew out.  Thanks Skip for you thoughts.

[redfjniner]

After a couple months of looking for a machine shop to do the head, with no luck as in no call backs and getting a ridiculous quote from my dealer ($3,000) I went ahead and picked up a FZ09 engine out of Florida with 4K miles on it for $1400.  It has one minor little bolt tap issue.  The bolt only requires 7.2 ft lbs so I don't think it is going to be a problem.  Right side bolt to seal head gasket at water ports.

[dazzler24]

Just simply out of curiosity, are you doing the replacement yourself?

Hope it all goes smoothly for you (if so) and it would be interesting to hear your thoughts after the process is completed.

The good, bad and the ugly - if any.

Good luck. 🙂

 

[redfjniner]

5 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Just simply out of curiosity, are you doing the replacement yourself?

Hope it all goes smoothly for you (if so) and it would be interesting to hear your thoughts after the process is completed.

The good, bad and the ugly - if any.

Good luck. 🙂

 

Yes, I will do the switch.  I'm studying the Service manual now.  "Removing the Engine", shows  1.  Loosen front engine mounting bolts (4 of them), 2.  Loosen rear engine mounting bolts.  (2 of them).  Of course there are all kinds of electrical connections and piping to remove first, as well as Center Stand, exhaust pipes, gas tank, air box, radiator etc.  Some of that stuff is already off the bike.   It looks like a doable job, and easier than re doing the Head, but I could have done that too.  I just have to make sure I have the special tool(s): Pivot shaft wrench, frame spanner socket, and frame mount insert wrench, if in fact these are required.

[peteinpa]

Should be an interesting project. You can swap all the scuffed pieces with yours.

Good luck and give us progress reports.

I'd check the clutch.  He might have been a wheelie nut and that can break clutch disks.

Edited December 9, 2021 by peteinpa

[koth442]

5 hours ago, redfjniner said:

I just have to make sure I have the special tool(s): Pivot shaft wrench, frame spanner socket, and frame mount insert wrench, if in fact these are required.

In my experience, they are most definitely required. Some odd castle nuts buried deep in the frame can be a real PITA to get to.

[knyte]

5 hours ago, peteinpa said:

You can swap all the scuffed pieces with yours

I was thinking the same.  Looks to be mostly straightforward, just time consuming.

[skipperT]

8 hours ago, koth442 said:

In my experience, they are most definitely required. Some odd castle nuts buried deep in the frame can be a real PITA to get to.

Search eBay. IIRC there was a machinist selling copies at really reasonable prices. Sorry I don’t have a link, but try searching the part number of the tool. 
HTH, 

Skip

[PhotoAl]

We are all hoping you will post pictures of the replacement process and help keep us entertained for part of the long dark cold winter.

Edited December 10, 2021 by PhotoAl

[dazzler24]

7 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

We are all hoping you will post pictures of the replacement process and help keep us entertained for part of the long dark cold winter.

And the Summer here in the upside down part of the world.