12 O'Clock Labs AATS turn signal swap...problem...

[schlitz]

New member...first post...just brought home my new 2020 Tracer GT about a month ago.  Loving it so far!

I just did a turn signal swap using the 12 O'clock Labs AATS programmable LED signals.  Found a smokin' deal--some guy was selling a few new sets on eBay for $40, less than half of retail.  Couldn't pass 'em up.  The front install, while a little fiddly, went fine.  Got them installed, panels back together and installed...signals function exactly as they should.  I bought Yamaha style connectors on Amazon and soldered them on.  Also bought an LED flasher relay also off Amazon and swapped that out.

The rears are a different story.  I wired up the connectors the same as I did for the front, wiring all three wires, even though I know there isn't a running light circuit going to the rears.  Figured it would just be a dead end on that connector pin, so no big deal.  Bolted the "fender" all back up and signals don't function at all.  WTF??  Plugged the stock rear signals back in and they function fine, so it's not a problem on the bike.  Could it be that third running light wire causing problems?  So I plug the stock front signals into the back, they also function fine.  Again, WTF?  I then remove the fender and plug my new rear signals into the front and they function fine.  Now I'm really scratching my head because it appears the signals do work and my wiring job is fine.

Anyone got any ideas?  Does the new relay not like the new signals in back for some reason?  My next step is to snip the connectors off the stock rear signals and rewire the stock 2-wire connectors to the new lights, leaving the third wire disconnected.  If that doesn't do it, I'm stumped.  Any help is appreciated.

[betoney]

20 minutes ago, schlitz said:

My next step is to snip the connectors off the stock rear signals and rewire the stock 2-wire connectors to the new lights, leaving the third wire disconnected.  If that doesn't do it, I'm stumped.  Any help is appreciated.

^^^^ This would be my next step also.  You know that the signals work and also know that the wiring on the rear is functional, so now its just a matter of getting the signals wired correctly.  Good luck.

[schlitz]

I went ahead and snipped the 2-wire connectors off the stock rear signals, soldered them on and left the red constant 12V wire disconnected.  Still nothing.  After thinking about it a bit, I'm guessing that due to the complexity of these signals, they actually require the constant 12v to be connected in order to operate, and you just disable the running lights through the programming if you so desire.  Next step is tapping into the license light, I guess.

[schlitz]

That was it.  Signals require a switched 12V supply to function at all.  Running light feature is on by default and can be disabled through programming.  All good now.