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How to access stator plug/wires @ rectifier for test


howie333

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17 FJ-09, -12k miles

Battery wouldn't start engine 1st time. The battery read approx. 12.5V;  2V drop @ startup ;seem right, but Just 13.9-14V from idle to 5K rpm's. I don't know what else to check but the resistance of the stator leads.  Manual states .152-.228 ohms (I assume not running). 2 meters 2 different readings but consistant. .3-.5 ohms.  Could that be too much resistance ?  I assume regulator is OK, but not sure. Manual states stator output should be 14.3-14.7 voltsDC.  Dealer said just less than 15V.  Also i checked short to ground, and found good, no shorts to ground on any leads. 

 

Any help appreciated;

Howie...

 

Edited by howie333
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Your battery sounds weak. Remember that the charging system output tests should be measured with a fully charged, healthy battery in order to get the spec you read in the book, but didn’t see on your particular bike. 
These bikes are battery sensitive, meaning 12.5 isn’t enough to get a reliable start. 
 

Another test is to turn the key on, and let it stay on for 30 seconds, and THEN measure the voltage at the battery terminals (engine off). It should be above 12 volts, usually 12.2-12.4 or so. less? Battery is discharged or on its way out. 

reg/rec is mounted under subframe, IIRC.

the other stator tests most people miss, are short to ground on each of the 3 stator wires, and an AC Voltage output test across each of the 3 legs at 5k RPM. 

-Skip

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34 minutes ago, skipperT said:

Your battery sounds weak. Remember that the charging system output tests should be measured with a fully charged, healthy battery in order to get the spec you read in the book, but didn’t see on your particular bike. 
These bikes are battery sensitive, meaning 12.5 isn’t enough to get a reliable start. 
 

Another test is to turn the key on, and let it stay on for 30 seconds, and THEN measure the voltage at the battery terminals (engine off). It should be above 12 volts, usually 12.2-12.4 or so. less? Battery is discharged or on its way out. 

reg/rec is mounted under subframe, IIRC.

the other stator tests most people miss, are short to ground on each of the 3 stator wires, and an AC Voltage output test across each of the 3 legs at 5k RPM. 

-Skip

Just edited post , please read tnx

 

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I'd bet it's the battery. 

Too early to blow stators or reg/rec's. If so you are the first, and there are a lot of high mileage bikes here with no track record of charging problems.

Now batteries on low mileage 4 year old bikes...Normal.

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41 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Dropping down 2V on startup seems very low, I've never seen anything below 11VDC but my battery is only 2 years old.

also there are misc. load sa. lights, CB radio, chain oiler, heated grips; may need charging to be optimum. 

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update: put some loads on; caused battery to die. battery sat fully charged since last night. put battery on charge since, and has been charging for quite a while now. guessing it was defective battery. I did test output voltage on stator @ 20V A/C on all combinations. 14V d/c stator output worried me it may be low. It should have been slightly higher considering some small loads I use. I'll bring battery to a local auto store  to put load across battery to know for sure. Where the best place to buy new battery ? local or internet store ?

 TNX. Howie

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40 minutes ago, howie333 said:

update: put some loads on; caused battery to die. battery sat fully charged since last night. put battery on charge since, and has been charging for quite a while now. guessing it was defective battery.

I'll bring battery to a local auto store  to put load across battery to know for sure. Where the best place to buy new battery ? local or internet store ?

Just my opinion but I wouldn't waste my time and energy, just get a new battery and be done with it.  Last thing you want to do is get a few hours (or days) away from home and be stuck with a dead bike. 

Also I highly recommend a voltage meter of some sort to be able to tell battery voltage at a moments notice.

pic03.jpg

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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1 hour ago, betoney said:

Just my opinion but I wouldn't waste my time and energy, just get a new battery and be done with it.  Last thing you want to do is get a few hours (or days) away from home and be stuck with a dead bike. 

Also I highly recommend a voltage meter of some sort to be able to tell battery voltage at a moments notice.

pic03.jpg

Thanks for reply; I also read that a larger battery will fit (wide) if foam spacer is removed. not sure if needed.  

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2 minutes ago, howie333 said:

Thanks for reply; I also read that a larger battery will fit (wide) if foam spacer is removed. not sure if needed.  

I have a GPS, voltage meter, USB charger and daytime running lights hardwired to the switched 12v accessory leads and I occasionally run a heated vest off my SAE battery tender lead and still using the original battery on my 2015 model.  I don't know that you would 'need' a larger battery, at least for me, the oem battery works just fine.

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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35 minutes ago, howie333 said:

Thanks for reply; I also read that a larger battery will fit (wide) if foam spacer is removed. not sure if needed.  

Can confirm YTZ12S will fit. Adds about 20 CCAs. Startup is a bit zippier. About same size as oem. Remove foam spacer as suggested.

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10 hours ago, howie333 said:

Yuasa OEM $211, or Mighty Max equivalent $33 ?? 

https://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYTZ10S.html

I've been using these for many years. Quick delivery and great life.  Just fully charge before first start.

I'll be putting this one in when the time comes.  Remove foam and a perfect fit.

https://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/sYTZ14S.html

Larger with more CCA.

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