Installing new Engine 2015-FJ09

[redfjniner]

Yippee,  My replacement engine arrived yesterday Dec. 15, 2021.  If you were following my discussion regarding redoing the head or just replacing the engine (https://tinyurl.com/3ctfzs82) with a used one, this is the continuation of that subject but centered on dropping the old engine and installing the replacement unit. Picture of engine can be seen on that post.   I will try to record most of the following process.

First off, I think I got a good used FZ09 engine with only 4,000 miles on it.  At least that is what the odometer said as it could have been replaced at one time or another.  I'm going with the engine only having 4K and it is rather clean compared to my 106K engine.  I paid $1400 for the engine from cycle-junkies.com thru E-Bay.  The process was seamless, cjunkies responded to all my request for pictures and shipped the following day after paying for the order.  They shipped engine on a pallet with plastic wrap around the engine and the pallet.  Good job of securing and wrapping.  See picture.  It came on semi and required a loading dock to unload it.  

I have ordered the gaskets ($32) for the replacement of the side covers with my 106K engine's side covers, because they aren't all scratched up.   I have made a special tool to loosen the engine mounting adjust bolts.  There are 3 of these and they require three special tools according to Yamaha.  The cost of is around $160, so I inspected the adj. bolt and see that it requires a two prong socket.  Yamaha makes these and they are expensive if you follow their directions on use.  The three bolts are  the same part number so I figure one tool is all that is needed.  So I made one out of a 12mm cheap Taiwanese socket.

 

You can  see the adj. bolt in the picture; it is the sleeve looking thing with the two notches in it. 

The engine mounting bolts go through these into the engine.  I believe that these are there to make sure you have a tight fit and are not stressing out the Alum. frame.  I sampled a number of sockets in the thread for the adj. bolt and found this 12mm socket fit just right.  A 11mm Craftsman socket also fit nicely.  I used a Dremel cut off disk to notch out the prongs to fit in the notches.  The above picture showing this has the adj. bolt backed out as far as it will go.

Next up:  Drain Oil, then Remove side covers from original engine while in bike.  I'm thinking it will be easier with the engine fixed, rather than on a pallet or loose.

 

 

 

[knyte]

Good to hear about your progress - nice work with the custom tool!

[piotrek]

Man... you know it's winter when this is making me kinda jealous. Probably because it's not my bike... 😬

~~ Fingers crossed for you !! ~~

[skipperT]

16 hours ago, redfjniner said:

Yippee,  My replacement engine arrived yesterday Dec. 15, 2021.  If you were following my discussion regarding redoing the head or just replacing the engine (https://tinyurl.com/3ctfzs82) with a used one…

*snips*

The engine mounting bolts go through these into the engine.  I believe that these are there to make sure you have a tight fit and are not stressing out the Alum. frame. 

*snip*
 

I'm thinking it will be easier with the engine fixed, rather than on a pallet or loose  

 

 

 

Yep, always nice to have the engine secure instead of moving around freely on the bench.

Nice job on the tool, that should work just fine.

and yes, those spacers are to snug the engine into the frame before tightening the RH side mounts and/or the through-bolts engine mounts. When you follow the Install Engine procedure it will make sense. Basically you snug the engine up so that it’s seated into the LH side of the frame first and the spacer takes up the slack. 

Have fun! BTW while the engine is out, if it were me I would unplug, clean, and reassemble all the connectors in the front of the wiring harness while you have easy access to them. Same for the ABS pump and everything that plugs in around that area too. I’ve found slight corrosion of the connector pins on other bikes in that area. (MT/FJ/XSR). 

HTH,

Skip

[2and3cylinders]

I observed you were still running an OEM auto CCT rather than a manual CCT.  Any possibility it contributed to the valve issue?

Are you going now with a manual CCT?

How will a FZ engine interface with the FJ ECU etc, and does it have a S/A clutch?

Inquiring minds want to know, and GL with the swap.  I hope you have a helper and or engine lift.

[skipperT]

On 12/17/2021 at 8:41 AM, 2and3cylinders said:

How will a FZ engine interface with the FJ ECU etc, and does it have a S/A clutch?

Inquiring minds want to know, and GL with the swap.  I hope you have a helper and or engine 

 

The airbox was changed to prevent water from getting in vs the FZ. Slipper clutch was a 2017 change  to both IIRC. 

-Skip

Edited January 13, 2022 by skipperT
Incorrect info

[2and3cylinders]

To me, more juice would be very important.  I thought there were other differences like with gearing and cam timing...

Partshark.com had a slip-assist clutch kit for about $200 I installed in my 15 in 16; great mod.

Keep up the output sport!

[redfjniner]

Replacing Engine on 2015 FJ 09

Fix on FZ engine requires replacing the side housing on the engine. Will use good ones off the FJ.

FZ engine already has an Ape cam chain adjuster. Came without the throttle bodies which the ones off the FJ will do just fine. It came with spark plugs, that appear that the engine was running a little rich but still in good shape. It was guaranteed to run and shift, as they say those were working before tear down.

The engine looks clean and fresh, so the 4K shown in their picture of the odometer is probably true.

I brought the bike back from the dealer in boxes, or at least the tank and fairings around the engine. I kind of assembled it a bit to identify where all the pieces went, especially the nuts and bolts. To save on floor space, I hug fairings form a beam. Then I spent a lot of time using blue tape to ID male and matching female plugs, and learning a bit about the wiring. The drawings in the manual show all this, but it is so much clearer with the actual bike. The interesting thing is that I have forgot all about the wiring I did for the Cruise Control, heating, GPS, grips etc. and had to ID those too.

In tracing all the wiring to disconnect the engine I had to remove the rear side fairings, and loosen the panel/fender under the seat to access the wires from the stator to the voltage regulator, and by the looks of it, even more disassembly and unplugging will be required to remove and install the this plug. It is very big and runs through tight paces. SHIT. Almost like taking the whole bike apart.  I will leave you with that for today.

Good thing is, I’m retired and can do this at my leisure. It is not a week in job. In the mean time, I sent my ECU off to 2 Wheel DynoWorks in Kirkland and had it flashed. On sale at $225.

 

[2and3cylinders]

Keep on keeping on...

It'll keep you sane during these trying times.

[skipperT]

The stator -> reg/rec plug is a bit of a pain, but remember that Yamaha knows it’s a common repair item so they haven’t made it an impossible task. 

looks good, nice organization and labeling. Enjoy the repair, not everyone gets the pleasure of pulling and installing their engine!
 

if you have any wiring questions, just ask. One thing about Yamaha is they generally do not use the same connector in areas where it could be mixed up and installed on the wrong component so you can’t really screw it up.

The exception to be aware of on any YCCT model is the 2p connector for the coil packs is the same as the 2p connector for the drive motor of the throttle body assy. (found that one out the hard way on a super ten as the wire was long enough to reach either component!)

-Skip

[redfjniner]

On 12/17/2021 at 5:30 PM, skipperT said:

Engine’s are identical AFAIK except the FJ has a greater stator output than the FZ (unknown if magneto is different) and the airbox was changed to prevent water from getting in vs the FZ. Slipper clutch was a 2017 change  to both IIRC. 

-Skip

Then it would be a good idea to transfer the stator from the FJ to the Fz engine.  With 106K on the FJ stator, would it be a good idea to obtain a new stator? $228.  I have two stories of stators going out while riding:  Returning from Brit Columbia my 95 Virago's stator went out, leaving me with 0 battery charge and in New York my wife's 87 Virago's stator went out leaving her with 0 battery charge.  In both cases we would switch batteries, push start one and continued on our trip to Vanc. WA and to Boston MA.  We had to switch them many times, and therefore became very proficient at it.  The one bike that was charging wouldn't fully charge the battery before we had to change them, but we did reach our destination (around 250-300 miles).

Revised:  Checked the stator numbers and they are the same.  That makes me think they have the same output too, appears that they changed it in 2021 as the part number is the same thru 2020.   Interesting that the price went down from $228 to $174.

[redfjniner]

Its Sunday.  I may just drain the oil, since that hasn't been done.  The Fz engine came with all fluids drained.  

Why don't these electrical plugs come with numbers on them that match?  But, I have to admit, labeling them does make you more aware of each and every one of them.  I know in the past, I would find and plug and ? where does this male plug go? then fuss around and find that the female plug got push aside and wasn't visible.  With the blue tape on it, it is easier to find but time consuming.  You can't plug any of them into the wrong plug because all the plugs are different, and most are limited by the wire harness.

[Buggy Nate]

5 hours ago, skipperT said:

The stator -> reg/rec plug is a bit of a pain, but remember that Yamaha knows it’s a common repair item so they haven’t made it an impossible task. 

looks good, nice organization and labeling. Enjoy the repair, not everyone gets the pleasure of pulling and installing their engine!
 

if you have any wiring questions, just ask. One thing about Yamaha is they generally do not use the same connector in areas where it could be mixed up and installed on the wrong component so you can’t really screw it up.

The exception to be aware of on any YCCT model is the 2p connector for the coil packs is the same as the 2p connector for the drive motor of the throttle body assy. (found that one out the hard way on a super ten as the wire was long enough to reach either component!)

-Skip

And the MAP sensor and Air pressure sensors on some R1’s. I found that one out on a couple customers bikes. 

[skipperT]

On 1/9/2022 at 9:29 AM, redfjniner said:

Then it would be a good idea to transfer the stator from the FJ to the Fz engine.  With 106K on the FJ stator, would it be a good idea to obtain a new stator? $228.  I have two stories of stators going out while riding:  Returning from Brit Columbia my 95 Virago's stator went out, leaving me with 0 battery charge and in New York my wife's 87 Virago's stator went out leaving her with 0 battery charge.  In both cases we would switch batteries, push start one and continued on our trip to Vanc. WA and to Boston MA.  We had to switch them many times, and therefore became very proficient at it.  The one bike that was charging wouldn't fully charge the battery before we had to change them, but we did reach our destination (around 250-300 miles).

Revised:  Checked the stator numbers and they are the same.  That makes me think they have the same output too, appears that they changed it in 2021 as the part number is the same thru 2020.   Interesting that the price went down from $228 to $174.

I was wrong in my post above (corrected). The outputs are the same. I mixed up some of the info in my head from way back, anyway…

yes both charging systems are identical. Nice that the costs of the stator assy have come down. 

did the new to you engine not come with LH and RH case covers? 

-Skip

[skipperT]

On 1/9/2022 at 2:24 PM, Buggy Nate said:

And the MAP sensor and Air pressure sensors on some R1’s. I found that one out on a couple customers bikes. 

Yep. Gotta love when wires and connectors could go to the similar places like that…

-S