Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted January 24, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted January 24, 2022 I've been looking but can't find a definitive answer. Can someone tell me with authority what type and size of tool needed for these security screws/bolts are that are found on the subframe of a 2015 machine please? I'm assuming that they are a TORX security/tamper proof type? Why tamperproof I wonder? Anyway, I've got some small versions of these but need to be sure of these before making an unnecessary purchase. As usual - TIA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 24, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted January 24, 2022 I'll check for you, I may have the size just never thought about it. Why do you want to loosen them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwringer Posted January 24, 2022 Share Posted January 24, 2022 (edited) They're T50. I bought a good quality T50 security Torx bit, since security bit sets never seem to come with anything that large. And no, I never, ever actually anticipate having the need to turn these. To put it another way, if you need to remove these bolts, you and/or the bike have suffered some sort of epic disaster. You'll have a lot of other things on your mind and you'll have plenty of time for ordering a bit. These are not going to be something you will need to deal with at the side of the road. Unturnable bolts sitting right out in the open just bothered me, in much the same way that it would bother me to have a lock on a door in my house and no key. So there's a T50 security bit in my garage toolbox, and I feel a little better about life somehow. I freely admit this makes no logical sense. Also, FWIW, I changed the security screws holding the seat lock last time I had the plastic off to install Givi hardware. That's because it is conceivable that I might need to monkey with these at the side of the road, so I replaced them with hex head screws. In the course of doing a valve check and other deferred maintenance and corrections after I bought my bike, I also ordered a lot of new fairing and body hardware from Yamaha and replaced any fasteners showing any wear at all (and there were quite a few; apparently some real thumbfingered idiots had been at play. No idea what they were using instead of 3 and 4mm hex keys... chisels and hammers?) Reviewing everything for serviceability and replacing or upgrading as needed is sort of a standard thing I do whenever I buy a bike. This ritual laying on of hands is sort of a gift to my future self, a way to cleanse the stench of the unwashed and unskilled from the machine, and of course a great way to get to know a machine in general. Plus, I caught and fixed several stupid errors that could have led to serious problems. Edit: I didn't get mine from Amazon. I'm pretty sure I bought it locally at Menards: https://www.menards.com/main/tools/hand-tools/sockets/masterforce-reg-3-8-drive-tamper-proof-star-bit-sockets/67627/p-1524810582669.htm Edited January 24, 2022 by bwringer 1 Red 2015 FJ-09, among other things. Co-Host of The Riding Obsession, a Sport-Touring Motorcycling Podcast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sabre85 Posted January 24, 2022 Share Posted January 24, 2022 Amazon has them in many different sizes and kits, not unreasonably priced. just another box set to add to the tool box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 24, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted January 24, 2022 I have the below Torx set and presume if the T50 is not a tamperproof bit it's big enough I could likely drill the needed hole in it to make it so. https://www.ebay.com/itm/30pc-Male-Tamper-Proof-Star-Bit-Female-E-Socket-Set-Torx-Driver-Bits-Tool-CR-V/253878567092?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&pageci=c722aeef-e845-4144-ba59-c25364ab8eeb&redirect=mobile Though for $22 this set has one... https://www.ebay.com/itm/15pc-IMPACT-TAMPER-PROOF-TORX-STAR-BITS-SOCKET-SECURITY-SET-3-8-1-4-DR/370981704780?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=236622&meid=0828a40825684759a97094798a75d096&pid=101195&rk=5&rkt=12&sd=253878567092&itm=370981704780&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeed&brand=Unbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum:3709817047800828a40825684759a97094798a75d096|enc:AQAGAAACENJW1WG/PzJJwWu71zvgEAR7ds96Tq56KrNUC/Ab/gEQd976Onhp3qW3m6WviAzqqAtw3ZZm0PZ18mC9ZRh2SOhup2vQVfZ6RcVzB7vH+YmoO+VynMqIRvGR/3Du2KbCzFGJtyaU7V9sv8uHLbgAETQqZGLLTIGG4tLbfhxO8LMrVgDHXL49iAPoS139VlI7uuUKdAoymqIfo0sIbyNirAZM8OA0lHifOrlohv91zH9wIwL1ufz0DG4WwYanLkC0VOUIhU1BtRQnX6mla6xL7DITuYr3khMligOIvv/ApUuSZzQmqXtao8u+tVHuvHuUHKL3GRtDQ8HvDOwjuMqip6SW0rkbuuS0UZ+hD+G+B48Fl11Gn2c4nfrTLGWSpctQEBxaKmAFGdEHdBMqGwyfKeU6eMRfd5enJn21KiNjSHlyvAH2amVxxp+mWGfvs/tQ8aTFhGZNpT93XlSXXN9ZlalxS4Z5VjsRF7vVqNZpnyfymb0bN7b8moid9f2vAN1hMZNvzPK4khnGL7hdH1I8kSE80Lo4+Y5KT02wCr6o/JOS3NeNxOn6xxMEnrsebEQg2XQAc2QLqJuh8yqk+1Emqply8j1vqh+nS9uIrYZCuuvRAtYoehNbzolyHAETzb2Q5ExlelQHZrN9NDr0xbTf5Z49qMFZ2YmNZyB3EDNU93vlnDeJzZf1l6ENndtVSihHFA==|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675&pageci=008d84dd-a950-47d7-9740-56e296f46ec9&redirect=mobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted January 24, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted January 24, 2022 5 hours ago, bwringer said: In the course of doing a valve check and other deferred maintenance and corrections after I bought my bike, I also ordered a lot of new fairing and body hardware from Yamaha and replaced any fasteners showing any wear at all (and there were quite a few; apparently some real thumbfingered idiots had been at play. No idea what they were using instead of 3 and 4mm hex keys... chisels and hammers?) It doesn’t necessarily take a thumbfingered idiot to round out some the fasteners, especially those on the body panels, they seem fairly soft. I have had to replace several on my bike as well and any time it goes to the shop I always remove the plastic body panels myself. 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member knyte Posted January 24, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted January 24, 2022 1 hour ago, betoney said: especially those on the body panels, they seem fairly soft I've noticed this, too. I think Yamaha intended them to be used with some Loctite instead of more torque... 1 2015 FJ-09 / FJR touring bags / oil plug mod / Evotech rad guard / SW Motech bash plate / GIVI DS2122S windscreen / Seat Concepts: Sport Touring / Vcyclenut ABS rings (speedo correction) / Cosmo RAM mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted January 25, 2022 Author Supporting Member Share Posted January 25, 2022 Thanks for the info - T50 it is. As there was some interest/curiosity about why I might want to touch these - I was simply considering utilising one of them as a mount point for my Nemo oiler that I recently moved to a 'P' mount that, while usable, left the oiler unable to turn down to its lowest point (and hence use all of it's oil capacity) because of the necessary angle of the mounting bracket required to squeeze it into the tight space and keep it vertical at the same time. The circled point is where the body clashes with the bracket. The arrowed T50 is the possible mount point I'm talking about that would allow the mount bracket to be almost vertical. If the consensus is to leave the Torx alone then I could just cut a clearance slot in the bracket I guess or fashion an angled bracket to make things work as intended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 25, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted January 25, 2022 LITFA = Leave It The phuck Alone! IMO LOL 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted January 25, 2022 Author Supporting Member Share Posted January 25, 2022 5 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said: LITFA = Leave It The phuck Alone! IMO LOL Don't hold back 2&3. What do you really think. 🤣 And yea, kinda already decided to make up a little 'L' bracket from my 'P' clamp since bringing this whole thing up. So much simpler in the long run. 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 25, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted January 25, 2022 1 hour ago, dazzler24 said: Don't hold back 2&3. What do you really think. 🤣 And yea, kinda already decided to make up a little 'L' bracket from my 'P' clamp since bringing this whole thing up. So much simpler in the long run. 👍 Just trying to save my bud from himself! Sometimes an intervention is necessary. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted January 29, 2022 Author Supporting Member Share Posted January 29, 2022 All right, after the thorough beration 😉 I received after daring to suggest that I use the TORX screw point to mount my oiler I went away to lick my wounds, give myself an uppercut, and have come up with the better solution. Took an offcut of 2.5mm scrap aluminium (yes, that's how we say it) and made up a little right angle bracket to attach to my 'P' clamp which gives the clearance necessary for the NEMO to go from fully charged to fully discharged as per the pics. As a bonus I now have better clearance to get the cap off for refilling as well. Finally, re-routed the oil feed line for neatness. A minor change I know but I just couldn't leave it the way knowing that it wasn't fully functional. Might help someone thinking of doing the same thing maybe? Fully open (charged) - Fully closed (discharged) - 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 29, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted January 29, 2022 OK nice! We call scraps "cut offs". How about a sketch of your bracket and some more views of it unattached and attached, as well as of your hose routing down through the swing arm, clamps, clips and ties, and feed solution down at the sprocket? Thanks. I thought you'd appreciate that at 8 this morning we were already up to +8F woo woo! Low was -3. In only 8 hours yesterday we got 10" of very light and fluffy "Lake Effect" white stuff (thankfully vs heavy and wet) on top of the 6" of medium density we got a few days before. Kids love it. I'm so tired of the cold... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwringer Posted January 29, 2022 Share Posted January 29, 2022 Man, you antipodeans give me life every winter. It's nice to see people riding and doing bike stuff when we're staring at a hopeless frozen hellscape here in the wastelands of the north. That's a nice bracket, and I agree that it's far better to leave the frame bolt alone. For extra zootiness, you could cut that bottom left corner of the bracket at 45 degrees... 1 Red 2015 FJ-09, among other things. Co-Host of The Riding Obsession, a Sport-Touring Motorcycling Podcast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 29, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted January 29, 2022 Yeh, take it all apart and cut it to follow the angle of the main frame right below it, then paint it a matching semi flat black! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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