unusual sound in lower gears

[RollIt]

2016 FJ09 - 40k miles

Something seems to be catching something in lower gears (1-4) Weird periodic unusual sounds (sounds metal to metal touch) from clutch side.

Even with engine off, bike in gear, clutch pulled in, it doesn't roll freely for entire rotation.  Something blocks the movement and makes a lound metal to metal touch sound at a particular point engine rotation. Something similar as if clutch was not pulled in. With little force i does move but make that sound.

I got valves adjusted, did couple of calm rides and it was OK. Then 3rd ride was very spirited with  high speeds at lower gears, and then this sound started.

Any idea what it could be? Did i break something in gear box/clutch or something was not tight enough while putting back the valves/cam-shaft/etc?

The engine revs perfectly without any sounds when not in gears. It doesn't make that sound when rolling at 8mph in 1st gear (with throttle at idle)

TIA!

[piotrek]

On 4/16/2022 at 4:58 PM, RollIt said:

Even with engine off, bike in gear, clutch pulled in, it doesn't roll freely for entire rotation.  Something blocks the movement and makes a lound metal to metal touch sound at a particular point engine rotation.

Record a short video clip with good audio. I am guessing you meant to say wheel rotation?

[RollIt]

i've been away for a while but just wanted to update on this issue. It was the most unusual root cause. under lubricated chain. I noticed couple of times that the sound would reduce or completely go away after chain cleaning, tightening and lubricating before returning after few hard rides. So i started lubricating the chain more than i did earlier and life is all ok now. lol

[Lone Wolf]

1 hour ago, RollIt said:

... unusual root cause. under lubricated chain. 

I put a Scottoiler on one of my bikes last year. Adjusted to 1 drop a minute, the chain looks slightly wet and stays clean because it is designed to fling off some oil with any grit and dirt.

I had put a very expensive DID chain on, wanted it to last longer than the one I took off. I do get speckles of oil on the rim, but none where the "rubber meets the road". For me it is workable.  Whenever it is time to replace that chain, I doubt there will be any "stiff links" and it will simply be worn along with the sprocket.

[dazzler24]

4 hours ago, Lone Wolf said:

I put a Scottoiler on one of my bikes last year. Adjusted to 1 drop a minute, the chain looks slightly wet and stays clean because it is designed to fling off some oil with any grit and dirt.

I had put a very expensive DID chain on, wanted it to last longer than the one I took off. I do get speckles of oil on the rim, but none where the "rubber meets the road". For me it is workable.  Whenever it is time to replace that chain, I doubt there will be any "stiff links" and it will simply be worn along with the sprocket.

Ditto for me.  Not a Scottoiler but similar concept.  DID chain that is now lubricated just the right amount with very little fling and an easier to clean chain to boot.

[KrustyKush]

I had been a die hard gear oil user all my life but several months ago switched over to Du Pont Chain Saver. A dry lube.

This dry lube Chain Saver is very good. My original chain now approaching 15k miles and still in good shape. I bought a new DID chain and oem sprockets, thinking I would  need them way back, but not yet.

it flings a bit but isn’t oily. Wipes off like dust. 
 

 

[Lone Wolf]

9 minutes ago, KrustyKush said:

My original chain now approaching 15k miles and still in good shape.

That is really good for an OEM chain, and shows you maintain it. 

OEM chains (like OEM tires) are often lower quality than their brand name would suggest.

The reason I switched to an automatic oiler is because I tend to neglect the ritual of chain lube, then too many miles have accumulated. At the end of the day we are preserving the O-rings and preventing stiff links. Hoping to keep the inner lube intact.

[KrustyKush]

Yeah, I argued long and hard for gear oil and hand oiling. I do take good care of my chains. My pea brain enjoys getting down into the creases with a hand oiler. However, a few here who use the Chain Saver product were so emphatic about it, I decided to switch over on my oem, which already had around 7k on it with gear oil and religious attention. I figured all I had to lose was a chain and a couple sprockets that were already half wore out anyways.

I didn’t clean the chain before making the switch. I merely began using the Chain Saver instead of the oil. For a good while, the CS washed away the old oil residue during application, as it comes out liquidy and then sets up into a “dry” spooge. After a few hundred miles and repeated applications of CS the old oil was gone.

I also lengthened my interval, from every 100 miles to every 300 miles. I have made one extremely tiny adjustment to slack since the switch.  Now have more miles using CS than I did before the switchover. Chain looks and sounds great. The rear end of the bike is massively cleaner than before. No oil fling ‘cause there isn’t any oil!  I no longer bother with the frequent wiping that the oil demanded. Just now and again wipe off the “dusty” fling. Easy to do. Around the drive sprocket, it does seem to build up into a kind of soft mound but can’t possibly cause any trouble there that I can see. Occasional wiping keeps everything dry and pretty. 

[Ride365]

Had a chain oiling system on my previous bike, won't be going that route again as is just too messy regardless of how well it's adjusted. I have found the holy grail for me at least, its the below product that I lightly apply with a small detailing sponge about every 300 miles. My chain looks like new, negligible fling, and the bottle is small and easy to store when I keep on the bike while on a trip. I have tried literally everything over the years, and for me this stuff is a clear winner.  I use their stuff for all my firearms and knives as well, it works as advertised IMHO and experience.

NO I don't work for them or sell their products. LOL

 

https://clenzoil.com/collections/home-recreation/products/chain-sprocket-4oz-bottle

Edited December 31, 2022 by Ride365

[Forevertwowheels]

The FJ09 has been extremely sensitive to chain tension and lubrication in my experience, even a mildly dry or over tightened chain leads to crap shifting and lots of noise. 

[dazzler24]

On 1/1/2023 at 3:07 AM, Ride365 said:

Had a chain oiling system on my previous bike, won't be going that route again as is just too messy regardless of how well it's adjusted. I have found the holy grail for me at least, its the below product that I lightly apply with a small detailing sponge about every 300 miles. My chain looks like new, negligible fling, and the bottle is small and easy to store when I keep on the bike while on a trip. I have tried literally everything over the years, and for me this stuff is a clear winner.  I use their stuff for all my firearms and knives as well, it works as advertised IMHO and experience.

NO I don't work for them or sell their products. LOL

 

https://clenzoil.com/collections/home-recreation/products/chain-sprocket-4oz-bottle

Glad to see that works for you and curiously, I found that my earlier Dupont spray on product (read expensive) would turn the chain into a tacky mess over time.

For me, the manufacturer of my chain's (DID) suggestion to use 80 weight gear oil - that I use via an oiling system -  has been the best outcome in my situation.  Minimal fling with effective lubrication and ease of chain maintenance.  Oh, did I mention the lube is cheap and readily available to boot!

I give my manual oiler a very small tweak when I think my chain needs a drink/lube and importantly, only when in city or slow moving traffic as I think this gives the oil a chance to do its job and get into the chain and not get the fling treatment if applied at higher speeds.

As always YMMV and whatever works for the individual is always best. 👍

[RollIt]

On 12/30/2022 at 11:38 AM, Lone Wolf said:

I put a Scottoiler on one of my bikes last year. Adjusted to 1 drop a minute, the chain looks slightly wet and stays clean because it is designed to fling off some oil with any grit and dirt.

I had put a very expensive DID chain on, wanted it to last longer than the one I took off. I do get speckles of oil on the rim, but none where the "rubber meets the road". For me it is workable.  Whenever it is time to replace that chain, I doubt there will be any "stiff links" and it will simply be worn along with the sprocket.

My 1973 royal enfield had something inbuilt for self lubrication ( i think breather pipe routed to chain). Was always a mess lol. I'm sure these new systems should be a lot better.

[nhchris]

Chain Wax works for me with very little fling.  And it cleans up easily with a WD 40 scrub.  Only thing on the rim is brake dust.