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Stiff fork travel after Cartridge exchange


howie333

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I recently did a Andreani fork Cartridge and Nitron shock exchange. the shock was easy to set spring preload. The forks presently minimum comp/rebound damping to test. The shock w/ reservoir comp/rebound is set from Nitron for my riding style and weight. I left them there cause it feels right so far. I set the front and rear preloads for 30% total suspension travel which comes to 41mm front and 39mm rear sag.   There are only 4 turns or rebound and compression damping. Tech @Fast Bike Industries told me to reduce torques of triple tree bolts from spec., to soften fork action from excessive clamping and it's done often; but never heard of that. I'm not sure if that's safe or by what # to retorque ?

Any advise; TNX...    

Edited by howie333
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I torque the top and bottom triple clamp bolts to spec, most importantly after installing the wheel is getting the fork legs true on the axle so they don’t bind.  
instal the axle and tighten, then with the bike on the ground, press down on the forks several times so they settle in their neutral position side to side on the axle and then lastly tighten the axle pinch bolt. 

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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2 hours ago, howie333 said:

The forks presently minimum comp/rebound damping to test. The shock w/ reservoir comp/rebound is set from Nitron for my riding style and weight. I left them there cause it feels right so far.

 

I think you are going to find the test ride with zero damping to be a waste of time, you will effectively be riding the spring, bouncy and wallowy, not what you want for precise control in a corner. 

You can start testing how you want but just a suggestion; start with more damping and open if needed.  I always start setting the damping at full closed and open them 1/3 for the first test and then open or close them a little from there.

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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17 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

 Fast Bike informed me They were out of the Ohlins fluid they usually use, but the Maxima 85-150 5W fork fluid was a CST @40c matchup, and air gap of 120mm. 

TNX for reply...

 

Edited by howie333
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15 hours ago, howie333 said:

 Fast Bike informed me They were out of the Ohlins fluid they usually use, but the Maxima 85-150 5W fork fluid was a CST @40c matchup, and air gap of 120mm. 

TNX for reply...

 

What cst?😁

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18 hours ago, betoney said:

I torque the top and bottom triple clamp bolts to spec, most importantly after installing the wheel is getting the fork legs true on the axle so they don’t bind.  
instal the axle and tighten, then with the bike on the ground, press down on the forks several times so they settle in their neutral position side to side on the axle and then lastly tighten the axle pinch bolt. 

 I add fine tuning as a last step before tightening the pinch bolt

 With it up on a steering stem lift stand 

 Spin the front tire forward as fast as you can and then quickly clamp on the front brake lever

 This shocks the forks into alignment with the rotors

 I try to get a good fast rotation if the brake pads aren't rubbing too bad and then snap pull the lever

Boom x3

 Then cinch up the pinch bolt on the stand

 

 

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On 5/18/2022 at 7:27 PM, howie333 said:

Tech @Fast Bike Industries told me to reduce torques of triple tree bolts from spec., to soften fork action from excessive clamping and it's done often; but never heard of that. I'm not sure if that's safe or by what # to retorque ?

This sounds like maybe something meant as an in-shop/garage type of check to see if fork tubes aren't binding in the clamps, not for you to loosen the clamps and go riding. Strange advice IMO.

Check that the outer tubes are perfectly straight/aligned through the upped and lower clamps. Torque to spec. Let the fork (one that's floating on axle) align true and then tighten the pinch bolt.

Edited by piotrek

canada.gif.22c5f8bdb95643b878d06c336f5fe29f.gif

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3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

This shocks the forks into alignment with the rotors

The forks should be aligned true on the axle, unimpeded by the brakes.

canada.gif.22c5f8bdb95643b878d06c336f5fe29f.gif

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3 hours ago, piotrek said:

The forks should be aligned true on the axle, unimpeded by the brakes.

In my experience, if the rotors are not warped, my fine tuning procedure ensures the forks are coincident with the wheel and de facto the axle; given the wheel bearings are also true.

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On 5/19/2022 at 9:06 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

In my experience, if the rotors are not warped, my fine tuning procedure ensures the forks are coincident with the wheel and de facto the axle; given the wheel bearings are also true.

Question- do you have any recommendations for fork service in the Chicago/midwest area? I just want to replace my fork springs/oil on my stock 5K mile 2020 Tracer- probably Racetech springs. I've had good luck with Trackside Engineering in WI on a previous bike's Ohlins shock. Any shop closer that's good?

 https://tracksidesuspension.com/services/

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I've used Trackside too but only for shock refreshes.  Springs are easy with some inexpensive tools. Dump, flush with ATF a couple times, add 16Cst fluid to 155 mm, add a couple of .035 washers on the OEM spacers with say .95 kg springs and away you go.

No suspension experts but Stan at https://motoandmotor.com/

Kind of a jerk and has gotten pricey in Northbrook. 

Heard good things about

https://www.midwestperformancetuning.com/

I do my own work, sorry 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Looking into this further. Racetech fork spring compressor tool, and damper bleeding tool add up to around $300! Pricey for a tool that I'm probably only going to use one time. Add in the replacement springs, oil, and I'm around $450. Is there an alternative spring compressor tool?

https://racetech.com/page/title/IP FK CAP INSTALL STREET

Edited by sandman900
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I'll look where I bought my tools which include a 41 mm seal driver but I know I made NO More than $100 a few years ago!

The tools can be used on any bike other than the seal driver not even then if the fork sliders are also 41...

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