Jump to content

New brake rotors


stringman

Recommended Posts

Some scumbag tried to.stesl my bike last night and cut through the front discs.

So I need to replace both.

Is it a matter of just unscrewing the old ones, sliding them out, and sliding the New ones in?

Need to do it as quickly and easily as possible.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, stringman said:

Some scumbag tried to.stesl my bike last night and cut through the front discs.

So I need to replace both.

Is it a matter of just unscrewing the old ones, sliding them out, and sliding the New ones in?

Need to do it as quickly and easily as possible.

Thanks

Simplification but yes. Everything needs to be torqued to spec and sometimes the retaining bolts need a little heat to break the loctite hold.

  • Thumbsup 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear about the rotors but happy to hear that they did not succeed.

This is so weird. Normally you'd think they'd load it in a van and take their time to remove the locks. Was he going to walk away with it without brakes?

Cutting through the rotors can only be done with an angle grinder, right? To make so much noise and go to all that trouble and then fail... What (an) idiot(s)!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, stringman said:

Brilliant

At least I can do it myself.

Just need to find the discs now (uk)

If you were in Oz I’d give you mine. Got spares in a box. I bloody hate thieves. Should cut off their balls with a blunt spoon. 😂

  • Thumbsup 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member
6 hours ago, stringman said:

I suspect cut the locks off and wheel it in a van

They got one off and made 2 cut on the other before they got disturbed. Was in daylight on a fairly busy road

 Wow ballsy and stupid

 Did you have 2 locks?

 I get depressed when I hear about stuff like this but Feel lucky you don't live in or near Chicago

 

Cause here theyll wait for you to come back to your bike point a gun at your headand say give me the keys and cell, then after you hand them over they'll ask for your password; then still shoot you!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporting Member

Definitely heat retaining bolts when replacing your discs,or you'll end up chewing the bolt heads. Don't ask me how I know that !! 🙁

  • Thumbsup 1
  • Thanks 1

2019 900 GT, 1969 Honda S90

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporting Member

@stringman - Really sorry to hear about the damage, but thankful the bike wasn’t stolen.  

Just to clarify, the rotors do just unbolt from the front wheel.   But you can’t slide them out with the bike assembled; you will need to remove the front wheel and get it flat on a solid work surface.   I did mine on the garage floor, with an old tire underneath to protect  the wheel & rotor.  

BC40EB4E-75F3-4632-AB64-6CB3852263AF.thumb.jpeg.d266e44e1096fc220703dbc26f00b8fb.jpeg

The stock rotor bolts will be tight, as they have a lot of threadlock compound on them from the factory.   As others have said, a heat gun will be extremely helpful before attempting to remove the bolts.   Apply steady, constant pressure with a long-handled wrench or breaker bar, and be careful to not round out the hex drive rotor bolt heads.    

It’s not difficult, but you’ll want to be careful and take your time.  Good luck!  

  • Thumbsup 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/23/2022 at 8:37 PM, stringman said:

Tried to order some genuine errors from fowler about 10days wait and ÂŁ200+ so ordered some wavy ones from franceÂŁ 150.

Presume I don't need wavy   pads

Standard pads. It’s depressing to read that bike theft is still so common in the UK.

It’s straight forward to do, but do heed the warnings about using heat and slow, steady torque when removing the bolts. At a pinch you could re-use your old pads if they’re in good shape and you’re in a hurry.

Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, BBB said:

Standard pads. It’s depressing to read that bike theft is still so common in the UK.

It’s straight forward to do, but do heed the warnings about using heat and slow, steady torque when removing the bolts. At a pinch you could re-use your old pads if they’re in good shape and you’re in a hurry.

I was intending to use the old pads as the bike has only done 8,000 gentle touring miles and time is of the essence

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well an update.

Ordered some new EBC pads as i thought better safe than sorry.

When to pull the bike up on the centre stand and popped my calf muscle! 

Finally got around to doing it today (hobbling around and sitting down)

Got the pads changed super quick and got the wheel off nice and easy.

1 disc came of fine and the second did apart from the last two, applied heat gentle pressure all to no avail they rounded.

With it being a Bank holiday in the UK no garages or shops are open.

so I attacked the disk with an angle grinder and managed to get the 1st bolt off and then realised if i just cut the heat of the bolt square I could use a spanner to get it off. which I did.

Problem is there is some minor damage to the wheel ( see photos)

The rotors sit nice and square and dont  seem lose ( though i havent tightened them to full torque as i want to fit new screws.

Asthetics aside do you think this is ok to use? i really dont want to fork out ÂŁ500 for a new wheel)

On a side note the brakes, again havent been fully torqued but the brake lever feels really spongy and can touch the handlebars. Do you think this will settle or they will need bleeding?

 

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporting Member

Hi @stringman - I’m not seeing any photos of the wheel, but as long as the flat machined mating surfaces of the wheel onto the back of the rotors isn’t damaged, I’m sure you’re fine.   This is one of those projects that isn’t hard when it goes right, but often gets complicated due to hard-to-remove rotor bolts.  

As for the brake feel, assuming you pushed the pistons back into the calipers to fit the new pads, they should pump back up once everything is reattached.   Don’t pump on them with the calipers disconnected (not on the rotors) or you can push the pistons all the way out of the caliper. 

Good luck finishing up… sounds like you’re almost there. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×