New brake rotors

[Manxkiwi]

Looks ugly but you'll probably get away with it I reckon. Some people will say no compromise with brakes, which is true to a point. But the shoulders of the bolts take all the load in a 'shear' direction, at 18Nm the bolts are basically just stopping the discs from falling off. There is still most of the location face there.

It's up to you in the end though. Go for a wee ride and see how it is. I doubt there will be a catastrophic failure. Good luck.

[stringman]

11 hours ago, texscottyd said:

Hi @stringman - I’m not seeing any photos of the wheel, but as long as the flat machined mating surfaces of the wheel onto the back of the rotors isn’t damaged, I’m sure you’re fine.   This is one of those projects that isn’t hard when it goes right, but often gets complicated due to hard-to-remove rotor bolts.  

As for the brake feel, assuming you pushed the pistons back into the calipers to fit the new pads, they should pump back up once everything is reattached.   Don’t pump on them with the calipers disconnected (not on the rotors) or you can push the pistons all the way out of the caliper. 

Good luck finishing up… sounds like you’re almost there. 

Sorry for the short reply - was in bed just about to sleep.

Posted now.

There is some damage to the mating surface, a groove where the angle grinder went to far, and the very end of the surface has a cut.

I have fitted the discs ( but not fully torqued them up yet) and the rotors seem flush and solid.

regarding the sponginess

I left the callipers supported whilst i changed the then took the pads out. when I re fitted them i had to force them apart to fit on the rotors.

Again nothing is fully torqued.

I pumped the brakes quite a few time and the lever would also go back to the bar.

When spinning the wheel it moves freely but i can feel that the pads are binding. Is this normal?

I know that I cant really make any comments until its all properly installed but thought i would pre-empt things a bit.

Thanks

[KrustyKush]

Yeah, this happened to me while removing front wheel discs on my 2005 Road Star.  I had not expected to find thread locker on the disc bolts.  By the time I realized there was thread locker on the bolts, I had stripped out a couple of them, and then while trying to drill out the bolts, the bit wandered around and damaged the threaded hole in the wheel.  Needed entire new wheel.  The thing is, I have removed discs from many motorcycle wheels over the years and NEVER had a bit of trouble.  Until those Yamaha wheels.  Nowadays I always heat the bolt heads and hope for the best.

When I reinstalled those new bolts into the new wheel on the new discs, I did NOT use thread locker.  I torqued the bolts to proper spec, and just kept an eye on them for awhile, rechecking them from time to time.  Never a problem.  I'm not a big big fan of thread locker!

[betoney]

24 minutes ago, KrustyKush said:

 I'm not a big big fan of thread locker!

Use care where and when you use red (permanent) thread locker but blue is more of an everyday use type and usually never poses any issues.  I very rarely use red but routinely use blue.

[stringman]

So I fitted the new rotors today ( with new bolts) 

Everything all torqued to spec.

I am still a little concerned about callipers though. (never having worked on bikes brakes before)

I slid the pads in put the spring in on the top as per the photos and then inserted the pin ( and c clips)

they closed up a little so Before I fitted them I prised them apart a bit. 

Slipped them over the rotor tightened up the bolts and then squeezed the brake lever.

Obviously very squishy at first. Although its firmed up alot I can still pull the lever almost to the bar.

I dont remember it being like that before.

I would expect to have to bleed the brakes as the system hasnt been opened. Could the callipers being moved around cause problems?

Thanks all in advance

[2and3cylinders]

My procedure:

Clean calipers concentrating on pistons using 91% isopropyl alcohol and toothbrush, and rinse well with iso, tab dry with lint free cloth

Push pistons back into calipers but first insert spacer block in opposite caliper while compressing the other (I use a special but inexpensive piston retracter tool)

Install caliper on forks but only tighten caliper bolts finger tight

Insert pads (perforated heat backer plates are optional), insert spring plate and retention cross pin (yours look corroded), a thin film of waterproof grease on pins is recommended), then install cotter pins

Slowly and repeatedly pull brake lever in a maximum of 1/2" per pull to push pistons and pads into contact with rotors

With front end supported up on steering head stand, axle tightened, right fork lower pinch bolt loose, and lower triple tree bolts loose, spin tire forward as fast as possible then pull brake lever very fast to "shock" forks parallel and into alignment, repeat 4 times

Now tighten caliper bolts and repeat above alignment procedure, then tigten lower triple tree pinch bolts and axle pinch bolt

Instead (and no head lift needed) some follow fork alignment procedure in manual by pumping forks with tire on ground and then tighten the final 3 bolts, or do both procedures

Read, comprehend then destroy the electronic device you're reading this on now!

BTW, you did not follow the manual

If you don't have one, get one and watch videos but trust none of them completely

 

 

[stringman]

2and3

Thank you so much for the detailed reply, I feel like a bit of a noob put in my place lol

In all the videos I watched none of them talked about aligning the forks.

When you refer to the version in the manual you mention the final 3 bolts do you mean the pinch bolt and 2 calliper bolts or the pinch bolt and the and the triple tree bolts?

Also ( and I am no be lazy or anything) how critical is this as the bike is going into the shop in a couple of weeks for new fork cartridges, and any work on the bike is a pain at the moment due to my leg.

Thanks

[2and3cylinders]

13 minutes ago, stringman said:

2and3

Thank you so much for the detailed reply, I feel like a bit of a noob put in my place lol

In all the videos I watched none of them talked about aligning the forks.

When you refer to the version in the manual you mention the final 3 bolts do you mean the pinch bolt and 2 calliper bolts or the pinch bolt and the and the triple tree bolts?  THE LATTER

Also ( and I am no be lazy or anything) how critical is this as the bike is going into the shop in a couple of weeks for new fork cartridges, and any work on the bike is a pain at the moment due to my leg.

NOT CRITICAL NOW IF MILEAGE BETWEEN IS MINIMAL BUT WILL YOU TRUST A SHOP TO DO IT RIGHT?!  ASK BEFORE AND ACCEPT NO BS AND IF NECESSARY BE PREPARED TO FIND ANOTHER SHOP

Thanks

SEE INTERSPERSED CAPS ABOVE 

[stringman]

Thanks sir,

I will see if I can do it myself.

I do trust the shop as they arent a standard dealer but are purely a suspension and tuning specialist.

I have now got a downloaded copy of the manual.

Excuse my ignorance but the only reference i can see regarding what might be fork alignment is  page 4-25 where it says to push down on the forks a few times. ( in the section about replacing the front wheel) Am I missing something ? 

Finally, and this is a really stupid question. When i spin the front wheel i can hear the pads skimming on the rotors is this normal ( never had to listen before)  I am getting paranoid now

Thanks

 

[pilninggas]

I really feel for sorry about your run of bad luck: attempted bike theft and the disc gets trashed, you injure yourself putting it on the stand and then the disc is a pain to remove.

The pads skimming on the discs is normal - they'll do that less once bedded in. If they stick on [unlikely as it all looks clean and mint] then you need to deal with it.

[stringman]

I'm beginning to think the bike is cursed to be honest.

When I took the covers off yesterday I found this.

No Idea how its happened  but it looks like someones tried to prise off the lower panel with a claw hammer!!

[peteinpa]

You need to move. The bike isn't cursed. 

[pilninggas]

FFS - that's awful.

[2and3cylinders]

4 hours ago, stringman said:

Thanks sir,

I will see if I can do it myself.

I do trust the shop as they arent a standard dealer but are purely a suspension and tuning specialist.

I have now got a downloaded copy of the manual.

Excuse my ignorance but the only reference i can see regarding what might be fork alignment is  page 4-25 where it says to push down on the forks a few times. ( in the section about replacing the front wheel) Am I missing something ? 

Finally, and this is a really stupid question. When i spin the front wheel i can hear the pads skimming on the rotors is this normal ( never had to listen before)  I am getting paranoid now

Thanks

 

Yes x 2

[KrustyKush]

Regarding the lever travel: I think you said you went with aftermarket pads? If they are a mm or so thinner friction material than what you had before, could cause this. Ride it for awhile and see if it “normalizes.”  You couldn’t have gotten air into the line if you didn’t open the line. Even if you did get air into the line, front brakes usually “bleed themselves” as the air bubble rises into the master cylinder over time. As long as you’re getting good brake action, don’t sweat the increased lever travel at least for a couple hundred miles. It will probably resolve itself. If nothing else, your hand will get accustomed to it.