bruceintucson Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 MJS Racing, can't thank you enough! 40 minutes & the ECU is out. Big thumbs UP! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member ULEWZ Posted June 6, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted June 6, 2016 MJS Racing, can't thank you enough! 40 minutes & the ECU is out. Big thumbs UP!With a little practice, you will be able to do it in 10 minutes. I can do it in my sleep now. A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul. George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950) Bikes: 2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket. 2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes) 2007 FJR1300 (Sold!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member DavidS Posted June 6, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted June 6, 2016 Did you disconnect the battery first?No need to disconnect the battery, and in fact, if you are continuing on to do the throttle body synch, you will need the battery connected, and at least a little gas in the tank. btw - it is a good practice to put some soft towels or something under the tank when you set it down - just to keep it from getting scratched or dinged. It's also not a bad idea to secure it. I heard of someone who said they were able to put it on a bench which was right next to the bike, but I haven't tried that yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member DavidS Posted June 6, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted June 6, 2016 and thanks mjsracing, nicely done..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruceintucson Posted June 7, 2016 Share Posted June 7, 2016 I'll get more "practice". When Penske shock arrives....and if I decide to cut 1" off the end of the bars & go with either FZ-09 or first Gen. FZ-1 bar ends. Will need a FZ-09 clutch cable to install then, so off it all comes again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longboy Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Can you get the top of the air box lid off now for the air box mod? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BentAero Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 I'll get more "practice". When Penske shock arrives....There's no need to pull the tank, etc. to change the shock. And to slightly derail the thread, why did you choose penske over other brands such as Ohlins? Keep Asheville weird! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BentAero Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 Thanks to the OP for a great how-to thread, it was a great time and frustration saver! One observation; when removing the rear tank bolts, (step 6) don't take out the 'horizontal' 10mm head bolts, take out the 'vertical' 4mm screws instead. By leaving the 90 degree angle plate attached to the tank, there is no way the tank can drop down and scratch the frame. Keep Asheville weird! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camthelurker Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Thanks for the original write up. Pretty straight forward procedure. @likebutta suggested use of flat head helped. Alternatively, I only lifted the tank and supported it with the scrap wood pieces. Possible lateral instability longterm but for a quick access to ecu, it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpowell316 Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 I can not wait to flash my ecu! That is the first upgrade I am doing to my bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phpaul Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Another attaboy for the ECU removal tutorial. Easy-peasy, might have taken 15 or 20 minutes and much of that was getting set up and making a place to put all the plastic and hardware so it won't get lost or mixed up. Did notice I was missing one fastener on the left side lower tank trim piece. I'll have to see about getting that while I wait. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter426 Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 I like to use an old egg container to keep track of bolts/nuts/small parts. They are always available and you can write some notes on a small piece of paper to help keep track during removal/install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phpaul Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 I like to use an old egg container to keep track of bolts/nuts/small parts. They are always available and you can write some notes on a small piece of paper to help keep track during removal/install. Not sure where I'd find one... We keep a good-sized flock of layers around and sell eggs. People are constantly bringing us shopping bags full of egg cartons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter426 Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tktplz Posted June 30, 2018 Share Posted June 30, 2018 Thanks to the OP for a great how-to thread, it was a great time and frustration saver! One observation; when removing the rear tank bolts, (step 6) don't take out the 'horizontal' 10mm head bolts, take out the 'vertical' 4mm screws instead. By leaving the 90 degree angle plate attached to the tank, there is no way the tank can drop down and scratch the frame. On scratching the frame. Has anyone put 3 or 4 layers of duct tape on the frame then doing the work and then take it off? The reason I ask is I'm fixing to pull the ECU, pull the new style clutch cable thru and rewire the 12 V Power Outlets. Haven't gotten to that point yet. Still, 1 more ride around the lake to be well into the reserve so the tank is close to empty. Ain't no fun when the rabbit gets the gun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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