theNatural Posted September 9, 2022 Share Posted September 9, 2022 i'm trying to replace the spark plugs and am at the point of removing the airbox. there is a hose going to the airbox with a special type of clamp. how do i remove it? i don't see anything about it in the repair manual. also, should i disconnect the cables to the ecu or just remove the ecu from the airbox? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted September 9, 2022 Share Posted September 9, 2022 Long needle nose pliers, preferably ones with a bend in the tip. https://www.kmstools.com/knipex-11-quot-angled-needle-nose-pliers.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-_HisPKH-gIVzz2tBh32JARhEAQYByABEgINI_D_BwE the routing of the lower hose attached to the valve cover is critical, or it will get pinched. Pay attention to how it’s installed on the lower airbox fitting (there’s a dot in the hose, mark it and put it back same way) yes, easier on the wiring harness if you disconnect ECM first. However you can leave attached if you disconnect the airbox from the throttle bodies, and then tip the airbox 45-90 degrees (turn it clockwise slightly) which will allow the ECM to slide out once you release the 2 tabs retaining it. -Skip 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted September 9, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted September 9, 2022 You can more easily just remove the 2 top radiator screws and slide the bottom mount peg sideways to free it, pull the overflow hose and cap its spigot on the rad, disconnect the fan power wire, and the rad tips down well out of your way. Put a towel on your fender. While your at it, deep six the PAIR system and get $25 covers on fleabay. It makes accessing the plugs much easier. You have to remove the PAIR hose from the airbox and cap the airbox spigot too. Shoot some real silicone spray under the coil gaskets and gently rotate them back and forth before trying to pull them up. Apply silicone grease on the gaskets before reinstalling. Stick with the OEM plugs they're good for 10k+ miles and the iridium don't have the correct reach. Just my 2 cents for next time I'd guess. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theNatural Posted September 9, 2022 Author Share Posted September 9, 2022 8 hours ago, skipperT said: Long needle nose pliers, preferably ones with a bend in the tip. https://www.kmstools.com/knipex-11-quot-angled-needle-nose-pliers.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-_HisPKH-gIVzz2tBh32JARhEAQYByABEgINI_D_BwE the routing of the lower hose attached to the valve cover is critical, or it will get pinched. Pay attention to how it’s installed on the lower airbox fitting (there’s a dot in the hose, mark it and put it back same way) yes, easier on the wiring harness if you disconnect ECM first. However you can leave attached if you disconnect the airbox from the throttle bodies, and then tip the airbox 45-90 degrees (turn it clockwise slightly) which will allow the ECM to slide out once you release the 2 tabs retaining it. -Skip thanks for the tips. i was able to get the hoses off with bent needle nose pliers. it was more work than i anticipated, but i can definitely feel a difference in torque. maybe i was running off less than the 3 cylinders? in any case, she runs well 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KrustyKush Posted September 9, 2022 Share Posted September 9, 2022 (edited) I leave off the clamp on that hose, which vents fumes from the engine into the airbox. There's no need to have a big hardy clamp like that on the hose, and leaving it off makes future removals a lot easier. I also leave some other clamps off, such as the little ones that grip the plugs that cover the throttle body adjustment tits. Those clamps are unneeded, and only complicate removal and re-installation. I've been doing this on Yamahas for nearly 30 years and have never had a problem doing it. Edited September 9, 2022 by KrustyKush spelling correction 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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