Winter storage question...

[johnmark101]

On 1/29/2023 at 4:57 PM, Heli ATP said:

After using up the first tank of gas the came the came in my bike, I've managed to only add ethanol free gas to the tank for the last 3000 miles or so. Should I add fuel stabilizer for winter storage?  

Add the fuel stabilizer, for peace of mind if nothing else.  It will do absolutely no harm and will ensure the fuel is good come riding season.  I have been doing this for decades.  It does not degrade the fuel in any way if you use only as much as is needed and then fill the tank after to help mix it into the fuel.

[Brentinpdx]

Some things to consider when using a fuel stabilizer.  Here in the PNW I don't use them as our winters are not long enough or cold enough.  My FZ1 which was carbureted  sat in the garage with the petcock on for the duration of winter which was about 4 months. I never experienced any issues when starting and running the bike . Most fuels are stable for 45-60 days.  Unless you are going to winterize the bike for longer it might be a good idea to use one. Fuel stabilizers also have a shelf life. An unopened bottle is good for about two years. An opened bottle a lot less, as O2 begins to degrade the product once it is opened. So don't buy a huge jug thinking you'll be saving money.

On fuel injected bikes, old fuel is less of an issue than on carbed bikes. My 1995 Chevy pick up with its Throttle body fuel injection sits for months with old fuel in the tank and has never had an issue.

Edited February 1, 2023 by Brentinpdx

[2and3cylinders]

 I use stable marine blue or the tekron small engine treatment which I also use every other or so tankful

 

[2and3cylinders]

 And I did buy it by the gallon

[betoney]

1 hour ago, 2and3cylinders said:

 I use stable marine blue or the tekron small engine treatment which I also use every other or so tankful

 

That is about the same price per ounce and similar dilution ratio as Yamalube Ring Free Plus that I use. I wonder how different or similar their formulations are?

[TomTracer]

On 1/31/2023 at 6:56 AM, johnmark101 said:

Add the fuel stabilizer, for peace of mind if nothing else.  It will do absolutely no harm and will ensure the fuel is good come riding season.  I have been doing this for decades.  It does not degrade the fuel in any way if you use only as much as is needed and then fill the tank after to help mix it into the fuel.

Agree. It's not expensive, easy to add, and it does protect. There is no reason to not do it.

[kilo3]

15 hours ago, TomTracer said:

Agree. It's not expensive, easy to add, and it does protect. There is no reason to not do it.

That is unless you got that batch of stabil from 2012-13ish, which turned everything it touched into red gel hell in a few months. Never phucking again. Regular non-oxy is all it takes.

[Campsaw]

I have been working in a family small engine repair shop since I was 11 years old.  I am 61 now.  I have taken care of many small engines, motorcycles, snowmobiles, quads, etc.  I totally agree that starting an engine and not allowing it to reach full operating temperature can cause moisture in the exhaust and crankcase, however,  in the last 50 years I have never seen damage caused by this kind of moisture but had my fair share of fuel problems.  I have tried all different types of stabilizers and grades of fuel with the same results.  Last several years I have used stabilizers and start stored equipment at least once a month.  Removing 100% of the fuel is the best method but not practical on snowmobiles and most motorcycles.  It's been working well for me.  No longer do I need to take carburetors apart, and have yet to have issues or repairs with condensation in oil or exhaust.  Works for me.

[Lone Wolf]

1 hour ago, Campsaw said:

Removing 100% of the fuel is the best method but not practical on snowmobiles and most motorcycles.

I also grew up working on small engines, and am now 67 years old. I drain carbs on stored engines.

For Fuel Injected do you recommend "stabilizers and start stored equipment at least once a month."

Edited February 2, 2023 by Lone Wolf

[Campsaw]

I have never had to take apart a fuel injected engine for fuel issues on my personal equipment.  I did speak to a local Yamaha dealership owner who told me fuel injectors get varnished and clogged just like carburetor jets.  So I take my chances on the moisture issues, stabilize the fuel and start them once a month.  Like I said, it works for me.

[Lone Wolf]

Gotcha - and I have never let a fuel injected engine sit long enough to have an issue.

"...as daunting as that sounds, it's actually pretty easy..." <completely dismantles motorbike>

On the VFR forums I remember someone purchased a low-mile awesome VFR that had not been ridden, but discovered everything in the fuel system was gummed up, injectors, fuel rail, tank rusted, etc.

Here's another one that only sat for one year https://stevelarsen.net/used-or-abused/

Edited February 2, 2023 by Lone Wolf

[RaYzerman]

A decent stabilizer is naptha, a slow-acting solvent that dissolves gums over time.  Add a couple ounces of isopropanol, and it will take care of any water in the fuel.  I basically just described Seafoam, ~40% naptha and ~30% isopropanol.  It's all I ever use as stabilizer in an FI bike, never an issue firing it up in the spring.

[DavidS]

On 1/28/2023 at 1:46 PM, Garz747 said:

The only way shes going out is if i fit a front ski and a rear rubber track lol. It sure is hard to wait 4 months!

The only other option I can see would be to move to Southern California or Arizona or Texas.......