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Throttle body sync


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I did my own sync this afternoon for the first time with a carbtune pro. Getting all the panels off was a pain in the proverbial but fine if you have the time.
I was actually a little disappointed to note that my TBs were pretty well synced up already. I've been getting vibes and was hoping this might be the cure. I spent around 5 mins getting them as lined up as possible and then reassembled everything. I haven't been on a long enough ride yet to se if there's any difference but don't expect so.
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Top tip: turn the tank backwards and rest it over the seat area on a towel. I was able to run the bike with the tank slightly elevated on a plastic block with all connections in place. You then have full access to the TB adjuster screws
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Top tip: turn the tank backwards and rest it over the seat area on a towel. I was able to run the bike with the tank slightly elevated on a plastic block with all connections in place. You then have full access to the TB adjuster screws
I saw this tip somewhere and it made things much easier when I checked things yesterday. 
BTW, I checked the sync both with and without the air box (is that what it's called) installed and it didn't make a difference if that helps anyone.
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I did my own sync this afternoon for the first time with a carbtune pro. Getting all the panels off was a pain in the proverbial but fine if you have the time. I was actually a little disappointed to note that my TBs were pretty well synced up already. I've been getting vibes and was hoping this might be the cure. I spent around 5 mins getting them as lined up as possible and then reassembled everything. I haven't been on a long enough ride yet to se if there's any difference but don't expect so.
@scholgs, if you still notice vibrations, you *might* consider getting the ECU flash from 2wheeldynoworks.  I've read where other(s) have noticed the vibrations in the 4-5k range being either gone or greatly diminished.  I just got my ECU back from them and based on the couple short rides I've done, I think my engine runs smoother.  I'll be able to tell more as I get a few more rides in - longer ones on some open roads. 
Oh, and ya, my throttle bodies were in sync when I checked yesterday.
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The other thing I found is the left most 'nipple' you put the manometer tubes onto is a right pain to get to. I left a short length of tube with the restrictor tube in it in place (the short end of the tubing set up for the carbtune pro), and capped that. Next time this is done it's then a breeze to apply the main manometer tube, rather than worrying about dropping the cap in the bowels of the bike when I take it off/put it back on directly on the nipple.
 
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The other thing I found is the left most 'nipple' you put the manometer tubes onto is a right pain to get to. I left a short length of tube with the restrictor tube in it in place (the short end of the tubing set up for the carbtune pro), and capped that. Next time this is done it's then a breeze to apply the main manometer tube, rather than worrying about dropping the cap in the bowels of the bike when I take it off/put it back on directly on the nipple.
on the mk2 TDM 850 the factory provided 2 long tubes from the carb vacuum spigots to a location just under the seat unit. This meant you could check the carb balance and if they were balanced you did not need to strip the bike down.  
as many are finding the throttle bodies on the MT09 are balanced when they check, it would be an idea to fit 3 extension tubes to connect a set of gauges to for a periodic check.
This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is.
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The other thing I found is the left most 'nipple' you put the manometer tubes onto is a right pain to get to. I left a short length of tube with the restrictor tube in it in place (the short end of the tubing set up for the carbtune pro), and capped that. Next time this is done it's then a breeze to apply the main manometer tube, rather than worrying about dropping the cap in the bowels of the bike when I take it off/put it back on directly on the nipple.
on the mk2 TDM 850 the factory provided 2 long tubes from the carb vacuum spigots to a location just under the seat unit. This meant you could check the carb balance and if they were balanced you did not need to strip the bike down.  
as many are finding the throttle bodies on the MT09 are balanced when they check, it would be an idea to fit 3 extension tubes to connect a set of gauges to for a periodic check.
Do you think it would be a problem to install something like that permanently?  I don't know enough about this stuff or I would have done it when I had my bike apart.  Would a length of tubing on each TB affect anything?
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Possibly cutting that intake will net the improvement gregman noted. Or maybe not... at all. See Yamaha has a bunch of engineers whose job is it to get the most out of something, within the given parameters. Some times those parameters include noise and EPA regs that we typically care little about, so mucking around with stuff can yield real improvements. Other times bikes get all hacked up, and actually lose power.
Cricket1 is right.  I had a Ducati 996 that came with tiny venting inlets and big rubber snorkels at the entrance to the airbox.  After removing both, the bike made the same horsepower, however, it picked up revs much, much faster and made a glorious intake noise. Look forward to hearing if this improves performance.
Cheers
 
2015 FJ-09
2006 Triumph Daytona 675
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A couple of questions. The number 1 is ref and you want to adjust the other to match, correct?
And it looks like your saying you can run the bike with the tank turned and the box off, so this means you can adjust while the bike is running this way?
 
Makes it sound too easy :)
 
thanks!
2015 Red FJ 09
2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold
2012 DL650 V Strom - sold
2007 FZ6 - sold
1986 FJ600 - sold
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The other thing I found is the left most 'nipple' you put the manometer tubes onto is a right pain to get to. I left a short length of tube with the restrictor tube in it in place (the short end of the tubing set up for the carbtune pro), and capped that. Next time this is done it's then a breeze to apply the main manometer tube, rather than worrying about dropping the cap in the bowels of the bike when I take it off/put it back on directly on the nipple.
I was wondering what size tube to make the extender. This is a simple and brilliant solution!
2015 Red FJ 09
2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold
2012 DL650 V Strom - sold
2007 FZ6 - sold
1986 FJ600 - sold
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See this thread http://fj-09.org/thread/2691/pressure-crank-case?page=1&scrollTo=28608
 
@mjsracing experienced his crankcase pressurising - there was a pop when he went to top up the oil.
 
I was familiar with this happening on other bikes especially BMW boxers and suggested he check the crankcase breather as this should release any pressure and allow any fumes to be burnt off.
 
He found the pipe was kinked and this was almost certainly done when his dealer checked the throttle bodies. Oil consumption had also increased as a symptom of the pressure build up.
 
So, if you experience an increase in oil consumption after a service, release the oil filler after getting the engine hot. If there is a pop of air then you may have the same fault. Obviously, if you are doing your own throttle sync, check you do not kink the pipe on reassembling the airbox.
 
I am now going to have a few glasses of late bottle vintage port to celebrate my sheer brilliance.
This signature is left blank as the poster writes enough pretentious bollocks as it is.
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See this thread http://fj-09.org/thread/2691/pressure-crank-case?page=1&scrollTo=28608  
@mjsracing experienced his crankcase pressurising - there was a pop when he went to top up the oil.
 
I was familiar with this happening on other bikes especially BMW boxers and suggested he check the crankcase breather as this should release any pressure and allow any fumes to be burnt off.
 
He found the pipe was kinked and this was almost certainly done when his dealer checked the throttle bodies. Oil consumption had also increased as a symptom of the pressure build up.
 
So, if you experience an increase in oil consumption after a service, release the oil filler after getting the engine hot. If there is a pop of air then you may have the same fault. Obviously, if you are doing your own throttle sync, check you do not kink the pipe on reassembling the airbox.
 
I am now going to have a few glasses of late bottle vintage port to celebrate my sheer brilliance.
Enjoy your port. Im going to get some first year FJ and freeze a little :)
2015 Red FJ 09
2013 WR250R - little boy blue - sold
2012 DL650 V Strom - sold
2007 FZ6 - sold
1986 FJ600 - sold
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A couple of questions. The number 1 is ref and you want to adjust the other to match, correct? And it looks like your saying you can run the bike with the tank turned and the box off, so this means you can adjust while the bike is running this way?
 
Makes it sound too easy :)
 
thanks!
 
 
No, not necessarily. The adjusting screw with the white paint mark is standard.
 
The answer to your other questions Is "yes".
 
Regarding excess crankcase pressure - that line leading to the air box from the valve cover has a VERY specific bend designed into it. Before you remove the clamp from the lower part of air box to release the hose, take note of the paint mark visible from the LH side of the bike. If you align this mark upon reassembly, the hose will fold down neatly when the air box is reinstalled. Or grab a sharpy and make your own. :)
 
With the fairing off, you can also view the hose from the LH side of the bike with a flashlight to double check that it isn't kinked.
 
HTH somebody...
 
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