Andreani Fork Cartridge Installation How To

[ULEWZ]

How to remove the stock fork cartridge and install the Andreani fork cartridges:
1. Place bike on center stand and jack up the front under the oil pan to get the front wheel off the ground.
2. Remove the front mud guard.
3. Remove the brakes by loosening two screws each side.
4. Loosen the front axle pinch bolt.
5. Remove the front axle and wheel.
6. Loosen the top triple clamp allen bolt.
7. Loosen the fork cap slightly (way easier to do it now).
8. Loosen the two lower pinch bolts and catch your forks as they slide down.
9. Loosen the fork cap until it pops up from the fork.
10. Drain fork fluid into suitable container and secure fork tube upright in a workmate or equivalent.
11. Using a long allen socket and an air gun (might not be necessary to use an air gun on this bike, but I did), loosen the lower fork cartridge retaining allen bolt (located on bottom of fork perpendicular to where the axle mounts).
 

12. Remove the retaining allen bolt and copper washer. Note, washer may be stuck to the bottom of the fork leg recess. Clean off any loose locktite from allen bolt.
13. Remove the fork cartridge. No need to remove the cap and spring from the cartridge, but if you must:
[span]    [/span]a. Secure the fork in a workmate by pinching the bottom for the fork and positioning the fork upright.
[span]    [/span]b. Using a fork spring compressor (homemade or purchased), compress the white plastic piece down until the nut on the rod is exposed.
[span]    [/span]c. Using one wrench on the fork cap and another wrench on the now exposed nut, loosen the exposed nut.
[span]    [/span]d. Unscrew the fork cap from the cartridge guts.
14. Temporarily remove the fork from the workmate and drain all residual fork oil from the fork tube.
15. Re-secure the fork tube upright in your workmate, and position the clean Andreani fork cartridge into the upright fork tube and install the lower retaining allen bolt and copper washer. Ensure the copper washer is under the allen bolt to ensure a good seal.
16. Tighten the allen bolt snug, but not overly so. Never a good idea to torque this bolt tight unless you are racing (hard to remove later), if you must, the torque is 17 lb ft (23 Nm).
17. Unscrew the loose Andreani fork cap from the cartridge (mine was loose to ease installation).
18. Remove the fork cap, spacer, and spring.
19. Screw the fork rod nut to the bottom (will only thread a little way as the rod is only threaded about 4 inches).
20. Fill  fork tube up with 5 wt fork fluid, I used Belray 5 wt, but the Andreani instructions recommend Ohlins fork fluid 01309-01.
21. The final fill line will be 125mm from the top (top of gold fork tube with the fork tubes fully collapsed). I use a syringe type tool.
22. Extend the upper fork tube from the collapsed lower fork tube about 6 inches.
23. Place your hand over the top of the upper fork tube to make a seal, and slowly press the upper fork tube into the lower fork tube until it bottoms out.
24. You will hear some burbling.
25. Repeat this burping procedure 10 more times (should not hear any more burbling at the end of the burping process).
26. Pull the inner fork rod up very slowly (will spit if you don’t do it slowly).
27. Now slowly push the inner fork rod down to the bottom (it will spit now for sure, so go slow).
28. Repeat this 10 times.
29. Now your fork tubes should be air free, if not, repeat the burping process.
30. With the fork tube still secure upright in your workmate, install the previously removed Andreani spring and spacer.
31. Using a small allen wrench, screw the rebound or compression screw all the way out CCW, but not too fast as it could damage things when it bottoms out.
32. Now screw it back in CW four full turns. This is a setting to ensure the fork cap is at the correct depth.
33. Using  your spring compressor, compress the black spring spacer down until the fork rod nut is exposed and screw on the fork cap until it bottoms out.
 

34. Thread the fork rod nut up to meet the bottomed out fork cap, and snug tighten the nut. I don’t over tighten this nut either, but if you want a value it is, 11 lb ft (15 Nm).
35. Remove the spring compressor and screw the fork cap onto the upper fork tube.
36. I snug the cap as the O-ring does all the sealing, but if you must, and you will be sorry next time if it is too tight, torque to 17 lb ft (23 Nm).
37. Install the fork tube into the fork leg.
38. Tighten the lower pinch bolts to 17 lb ft (23 Nm).
39. Tighten the upper pinch bolt to 19 lb ft (26 Nm).
40. Install the wheel using the bushings and axle. Torque the axle 47 lb ft (65 Nm).
41. Torque the axle pinch bolt 17 lb ft (23 Nm).
42. Tighten the brake bolts 25 lb ft (35 Nm).
43. Install the front mud guard.
44. Secure all the brake line clips.
45. Remove the bike from the stand and squeeze the front brake until things firm up (you will thank me for this).
 
I will add the associated pictures later.
 
 
 

[FigJam-OhNine]

Tease...

[beberle]

Not done yet?!? ...........................
 
8-)
 

[ULEWZ]

Just finished. What a #$@&^%$#. My advice to anybody, get a spring compressor. If you are not at least medium strong, get the race tech spring compressor. I kluged something together and I will post how I did it later. Must rest now.

[ULEWZ]

Here is a teaser comparing the Andreani fork cartridges to the stock:
 

 

 
Stock internals:
 

 
So what size are those new springs: 10.5 inches long, 1.3 inches in diameter.


 
 
 

[ULEWZ]

Here's a keeper of a crappy home made tool picture:
 

 

 
 
 

[ULEWZ]

Procedure is up. I will reread it later to make sure I didn't miss anything and will post the associated pictures later.
 
Settings so far:
R: 1.25 turns out CCW from full in CW (now trying 2.5 3.0 turns out CCW).
C: 2.25 turns out CCW from full in CW (now trying 3.0 turns out CCW).
 
Preload: full in for now CW.
The lines showing are just for show. I read that there is an internal spring that adds preload without a visual cue.
About 8 turns available I think?
125mm air gap using 5 wt Belray or Ohlins 01309-01.
 

[pattonme]

If you look at the cap, you'll see a black insert. it's threaded and when you spin the preload adjuster, it walks this part downward and increases preload. Yes it is a shame the lines are only for show.
 

 
 
another view showing the pin that drives it.
 

 
And assuming this cap is pretty much universal across their product line: You get 10mm worth of preload.

 

[docsimple]

ULEWZ/pattonme
 
Im not sure what this piece you guys have shown is from:

 
Neither of mine have that gold extension:

 
any thoughts on this?
 
thanks

[pattonme]

My pics were from an (june 2015) FZ07 kit. I tore into the factory about how long they made the gold part because it was a huge safety issue. And magically a couple weeks later all kits were being received with the short version. I don't know if the FZ09/FJ09 kits ever had the long version.

[docsimple]

thanks pattonme. I emailed them and the response was basically "thats the part for your bike" and I left it at that. I saw your discussion of modding the pin and I was wondering if you have any advice on making these cartridges better down the road. I am sure they will be ok for me for now but in a year when I change the oil I might like to change the shim stacks or shorten the pin to get a better high speed response.
 
After reading your breakdown of the product (another forum for anyone else seeing this) I wa sthinking oh damn I should have.... but realistically this is what I could afford and it will be better than stock.
 
anyway, thanks for the response.

[pattonme]

Run a thin oil say 14cSt on the Comp leg. That's about the only band-aid available unless you take them apart, flip or replace the piston and re-shim to match.
 
Bel-Ray HVI (3 wt) <<< might be too light (11cSt@40) but if you're going to experiment, I'd actually start with this, and if it's too mush, then try the next 2.
 
Maxima Racing Shock Fluid (light, 3wt)
PJ1 Cartridge Pro For Fluid (3.5 wt)
 
I'm about to get the latest Andreani kit for the FZ09 (should be identical to yours) but I'm going to tear it apart and see if the factory has learned anything in the last 5 months.
 

[ULEWZ]

Thank you for adding to this thread, but please take any negativity to another thread, not mine. Thanks. This is a how to thread, that is all.

[docsimple]

Ulewz, first off THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU for this write up. It made the install worlds easier. I am not being negative about the product and pattonme is sharing his knowledge which will help people make choices down the road. The most important of which is the oil choice.
 
That being said I intended no disrespect, just the sharing of knowledge to further everyones riding pleasure. So please accept this apology and hopefully pattonme and I can continue to discuss this here:
 
http://fj-09.org/thread/2602/andreani