enx Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 Everything looks fine. I takled with a guy in Yamaha service today. He said that the chain slack should be 30-40mm. I think, with that amount of slack, chain would hitting slider even harder. I'm really confused now, with all this slack crap ;-| Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfjniner Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 Sounds like the chain is worn out and has stretched and also has tight spots. Give us a report on the chain condition. How old is it? How often is it oiled? How often is it cleaned? When you adjust it, do you check it at 1/4 turns of the rear wheel? If you don't know the answer to these questions, it can be assumed it isn't maintained and is not in good condition. Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours (2)2005 FJR1300abs: 230,000 m 2015 FJ-09: 114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjdog Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 Hi all, I have been reading through this thread and thinking about slack. My chain has tight and loose areas. I can measure as tight as 0.5" and loose as 1.25" by rotating the rear wheel 1/8 to 1/4 turns. My bike is just one year out of the shop and has 5,000 miles on it. I have not ridden too hard. I have kept it clean and oiled its whole life, no visible defects are seen. This seems like a lot of variability. MY guess is the rear sprocket is out of round or installed incorrectly, off center. Having good and bad sections in the chain does not make any sense to me since you measure the slack with the bike in neutral so both front and rear sprockets can turn freely. Would be interested in other's thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 tight spots in chains happen all the time. You're checking tension with the rear wheel off the ground? If mine aren't on a (center)stand I use my driveway which is a slight incline, put it in gear and roll it backward so the top run is tight. that way the measurement can be taken consistently. Very doubtful the sprocket is out of round. Probably some of the error is in how you're measuring (inconsistent)? Reconfirm the tight spot (got a paint pen?) and loosen it up to at least 20mm and see what the knockon effect is at the loosest spot. Check sprockets for wear or dirt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3way Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 I never understand why anyone measures chain slack on sidestand. There are too many variables such as weight, (panniers etc.) preload of spring and how settled the bike is. This 'on side stand' measurement may vary for different owners due to this.. On centre stand ,shock is fully extended, weight doesn't matter, and slack is consistent every time, other than tight spots. But it's a still a damn sight more consistent and easier to measure on centre stand. A slightly loose chain will be waay better than a slightly tight chain. I measure 35mm centre to centre just where the crest of tyre is. Probably not perfect, but works well for me. Thanks to pattonme for his 30-35mm guideline. Be careful to check again after axle torqued up, it can alter chain slack. Disclaimer... I am not suggesting anyone do it this way, it's just how I do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chas847 Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 Yes, agree with the above. That’s how I do it, too. I’ve experimented with 15 mm slack, and as is universally agreed, once the bike is loaded the chain is rigid. Bad. Very bad. 25 mm is my absolute minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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